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Old 03-25-2017, 09:33 PM   #71
Leo72793

 
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Even on a vert?


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Very is different. i think they only got 8. 4 front 1 center 2 rear and one "sub"
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:33 PM   #72
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So rears are coaxial and that counts as 4?
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:35 PM   #73
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I'm thinking of just getting better speakers and an amp instead of changing the hu
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:58 PM   #74
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So rears are coaxial and that counts as 4?
Coaxials is tweeter powered from woofer. components ( run actively ) are seperate. Non Vert are 9 speaker rears are components. VERT is 8 speaker
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:02 AM   #75
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What the heck happened here?
It looks like a war zone.

And where does this red wire go, connect to?

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Old 03-28-2017, 11:07 AM   #76
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Cut out a little more to make fitting everything back in much easier.

Which red wire?


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Old 03-28-2017, 11:45 AM   #77
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Cut out a little more to make fitting everything back in much easier.

Which red wire?


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The one on the second picture that I reposted.
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:18 PM   #78
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Red went to red lol. Pretty much color matched everything with what was on my harness from the Ken wood. Everything works great and matched up perfect.


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Old 03-28-2017, 12:28 PM   #79
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Red went to red lol. Pretty much color matched everything with what was on my harness from the Ken wood. Everything works great and matched up perfect.


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Cause the Pioneer radio has a different name that it did on the PAC installation guide. Confusing.....
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:35 PM   #80
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If you want I can try to help ya over the phone if that helps.


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Old 04-05-2017, 11:03 AM   #81
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That worked! Just move it from Amplified Factory Audio Connection to Standard Factory Audio Connection. Sounds great now! It's definitely much louder.

Now my question is, when we decide to put in an afternmarket amp, do we switch back to Amplified Factory Audio or keep it at Standard Factory Audio?
I also wanted to confirm that this has worked for me. Just switched from Amplified to Standard connection and huge difference.
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:39 AM   #82
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Also does anyone know what kind of watts this stock amp is pushing?

Would be nice to know if we can just swap out the crappy stock speakers for something better and still push em.

Would save money and time.


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Should be a 200W amp for BA stock.
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:49 AM   #83
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Also does anyone know what kind of watts this stock amp is pushing?

Would be nice to know if we can just swap out the crappy stock speakers for something better and still push em.

Would save money and time.


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The stock amp is complete junk, less than 2w of clean, un-distorted signal is available out of that POS. Rated power is ~14w @ 2 ohm @ 1% THD, rising quickly to 10% THD at peak power ~20w @ 2ohm. I hear bs chatter about upgrading speakers all the time and it never ceases to amaze me. You will always and forever be better off upgrading the OEM amplifier out of any car before the OEM paper cones. There will never be a scenario whereby you upgrade speakers before a stock amp, you will damage and / or completely ruin any replacement speaker you connect to an OEM amp.

Regardless, neither the OEM amp is compatible with aftermarket speakers and stock speakers (rear) are not compatible with an aftermarket amp. While I don't recommend it, you can slap 2 pairs of Kappas on a 4 channel RF-Prime R250x4, a FARK and a basic "amp kit" and still be under $500. If you did absolutely nothing else, you would improve your sound quality 1000%. If you wanted to match the Kappas properly, you would upgrade to a JL 300/4, Alpine PDX, Zapco ST or higher quality.

Short story, any speaker can produce sound but if the input signal (amplifier/Head unit) is trash, replacing the speakers will only make the junk sound louder.
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:44 PM   #84
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I am willing and def will help anyone doing this install.
Your pics were very helpful with installing my Pioneer AVH-4800 today.
ESPECIALLY the idea of gutting out the rear support area. I put my favorite rotary tool cutting bit into use and had it out in about a minute.
(those bits are fantastic! They do have a nasty trait of loosening up in the rotary tool though. Wouldn't want one flying off into an eye....)



Just a couple tips that might help also is to place the new bezel onto your radio until it stops, butt up the mounting bracket to the bezel, then tighten the mounting brackets. That should put the radio in the right spot.
The first time I mounted the radio into the dash, it was out too far and the bezel wouldn't clip in. I moved the mounting brackets as shown in the pic below and it worked out perfect.



There will be a lot of wires, connectors, PAC box, aux wires, reverse camera, usb, steering wheel, antenna, etc to stow away in order to get the radio into the dash. I pushed the main connector, PAC box, and chime box into the open area to the upper left which helped a bunch, but also opening up the space where the chunk was cut out opened up a lot of room also.



Had only enough time today to set a few radio presets, test a DVD, and the time. But everything seems fine.

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