Mylink Install

[Eich]

Originally Posted by Deke736

Ok, so all the wires are in and I fired it up and nothing happens. For the connection to the radio hvac A20 connector, I didn't have 2 black wires, I only had a red, a bare wire, and a taped wire. I assumed the bare wire acted as the factory black wire in the instructions. Is this correct?

Mine had a red wire, a "factory" black wire and a bare/silver wire. None of mine were manually taped.

I probably would have assumed that the bare wire is the secondary ground. But I don't think reversing these would result in the "nothing happens" situation you reported.

[Eich]

Originally Posted by Deke736

Any ideas why I'm not getting power to the faceplate? Is the T-tapped wire providing the power?

Yes, the white wire in the T-Tap seems to be providing power to the faceplate. It normally turns on the amplifier.

Open your T-Tap and make sure the white wire went down between the two metal edges of the tap.

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by Eich

Mine had a red wire, a "factory" black wire and a bare/silver wire. None of mine were manually taped.



I probably would have assumed that the bare wire is the secondary ground. But I don't think reversing these would result in the "nothing happens" situation you reported.

Basically my faceplate isn't doing anything except the hazard button works.

[Eich]

Originally Posted by Toasty

Im pretty sure that the white wire may be a data turn on not 12v.

How many wires on your camera? If you need switched power, just tap into the accessory plug wires in the console.

I measured 12v on that white wire when the key was turned forward. It's currently working my camera perfectly.

I don't think a pure data line would be as heavy a gauge of wire in the main power harness of the radio.

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by Eich

Yes, the white wire in the T-Tap seems to be providing power to the faceplate. It normally turns on the amplifier.



Open your T-Tap and make sure the white wire went down between the two metal edges of the tap.

I thought that too. It seems to be touching wire but it seems loose. Maybe I'll try to run power to the white wire from another source. My amp and speakers are popping every time I turn the key on and off, so something is happening.

[Eich]

Originally Posted by Deke736

I thought that too. It seems to be touching wire but it seems loose. Maybe I'll try to run power to the white wire from another source. My amp and speakers are popping every time I turn the key on and off, so something is happening.

Yes - your amp/speakers will pop even without the T-Tap at all.

Rather than taking a chance on running power from another source, do you have a voltmeter that you can test on the T-Tap? On mine, I see 12v when the key is turned forward. When the key is turned off and the door is opened and the amp/speakers pop off, then there's no longer 12v on the T-Tapped white wire.

I also realized that to test the output of the T-Tap, the harness needs to be plugged into the radio/head unit. When it's not, there's never 12v on the white wire.

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by Eich

Yes - your amp/speakers will pop even without the T-Tap at all.



Rather than taking a chance on running power from another source, do you have a voltmeter that you can test on the T-Tap? On mine, I see 12v when the key is turned forward. When the key is turned off and the door is opened and the amp/speakers pop off, then there's no longer 12v on the T-Tapped white wire.



I also realized that to test the output of the T-Tap, the harness needs to be plugged into the radio/head unit. When it's not, there's never 12v on the white wire.

I just tested the t-tapped white wire and I have 12v all the way to the white connector that plugs into the faceplate.

Just for the heck of it I tried plugging the old faceplate back in and that doesn't power up either, and it doesn't even use any of the new wires.

[Toasty]

Originally Posted by Deke736

I just tested the t-tapped white wire and I have 12v all the way to the white connector that plugs into the faceplate.

Just for the heck of it I tried plugging the old faceplate back in and that doesn't power up either, and it doesn't even use any of the new wires.

Check your radio fuses

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by Toasty

Check your radio fuses

Is there another fuse besides the one in the trunk panel labeled radio?

[Toasty]

Originally Posted by Deke736

Is there another fuse besides the one in the trunk panel labeled radio?

I don't think so. Did you put both the old silver box and faceplate in, or just the faceplate?

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by Toasty

I don't think so. Did you put both the old silver box and faceplate in, or just the faceplate?

Old faceplate and the old silver box. I check every fuse that may be remotely associated with the radio/ onstar/ heated seats/ etc just to be sure and all are fine. My faceplate is brand new and just came out of the box this morning. I've sent Ofer a PM hoping he will call me. I don't know what else to do.

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by Deke736

Old faceplate and the old silver box. I check every fuse that may be remotely associated with the radio/ onstar/ heated seats/ etc just to be sure and all are fine. My faceplate is brand new and just came out of the box this morning. I've sent Ofer a PM hoping he will call me. I don't know what else to do.

I spoke to Ofer and we are working through my faceplate issue. It's got us stumped since my faceplate works in my buddy's 2013 and the faceplate from the 2013 works in mine, so it's not a wiring issue. I'll post up a resolution when we find one.

[OmniCamaro]

May be a dumb suggestion or QA: you do have the key forward correct?

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by OmniCamaro

May be a dumb suggestion or QA: you do have the key forward correct?

I don't know what that means.