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Old 03-30-2012, 09:50 AM   #43
litle88
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Daaaamn
* .680 lift on a 110 Lsa
* they supposedly know the "formula" to power
* they don't give you your parts back
* they don't do a trunion upgrade with those spring pressures and lift
* they don't answer or return calls
* the tune and cam and parts are all G14 classified

Sir with all due respect the have a formula to breaking other people's shit and taking more of your money! Is what I have gathered. Tow your car to the shop and demand them fix it and give you your old parts along with the correct parts that they used on your build.
Just my .2 and hope it wasn't that cow character. I have read MANY MANY threads of him and him chiming in on them. G/L
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:53 AM   #44
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Also what is the car idling at?
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:06 AM   #45
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Honestly... If a vendor wants to keep "secrets" about a critical engine component, I keep my credit card number a secret.

This isn't a set of poly motor mounts and the rubber is a proprietary blend. That I could care less about, but my valve events I wanna know about! Its a critical compenent and for any comparisons sake, having a single duration a @.050" does little to no justice on the lobes profile (whats the seat? @.100? @.150? @.200?). Last I checked the cam spun 360*s it would be nice to know what it was doing on at least a few other points.

I don't buy someones "magic recipe" cam, because the recipe was a sales pitch....

Sorry but back to the OP - the only fault you have was trusting this guy with your build. He's a jerk and I hope you get this solved on your own. Good to know "good tuners" throw their customers out on the sea with no life jacket...

Post your findings and the shops name, you will do your neighbors a favor!
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:23 PM   #46
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PM'd the OP. I can shed some light on this most likely, but will need his ok to do so first!

Besides that, I would suggest looking to one of the more reputable tuners for future work. My personal suggestion is to stick with ECS, great group of people, proven results.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:02 PM   #47
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Judging by the video, it almost sounds like lifter float....but hard to tell by just watching the video and not seeing it in person.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:41 PM   #48
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They scary thing is that you stated that the sound did not scow until after about 100 miles and then you started to here it. I could not really here the exact noise from your vid but my "guess" is one of two things, a collapsed lifter or just one or more that has come loose. I would check each one of your rockers in the proper sequence of rotation and see if any are slightly loose. If they are all "OK" than your problem is something deeper. At .680 lift, if they did not change your valve springs and all your are looking for problems!!!! Good luck.
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:09 PM   #49
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go back to the shop and be nice and talk to them if they blow u off then take them to court
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:09 PM   #50
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Hmmm, TonyC or adc174? Anyone remember that whole Paul Conte deal?
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:37 PM   #51
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its looking more and more likely to be a lifter...i am going to do this myself what should i get as far as lifters...also gonna call ecs and get a proper tune after i can get her back up and running.....what brand lifters do you guys recommend? i see lingenfelter sells the ls lifters for 150 or so...good enough or do i go with something else? i need reliable...the cam from what everyone is saying cant be what this guy claimed..he is blowing smoke...so even if it on the larger side i should be able to work with it...i recieved the trunion upgade whats left to order
head gaskets, manifold gasket, header gaskets,valve cover gaskets and lifters...am i missing anything or should i upgrade anything while i am there?
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:49 PM   #52
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:27 AM   #53
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You can reuse your exhaust gaskets, no need for valve cover gaskets, you need head gm mls gaskets, water pump gaskets, a crank bolt and head bolts (unless you get arp head bolts (no need for studs) because you can reuse them over and over). Get you a good chain a good o/p, make sure the engine is nice and clean where the heads meet the motor. MAKE SURE ALL THE BOLT HOLES ARE DRY! If you don't the block will crack. Look at ls1howto.com it's a good place for a little resource to read up on.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:06 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ View Post
Did you start it up with the valve covers off? Might give you a good idea where the noise is coming from.
That's not exactly easy to do on a car with the ignition coils mounted on the valve covers...unless you can manage to somehow suspend them all in the air, the coils, wiring harness, and plug wires would get mangled pretty quickly.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:09 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeOD View Post
That's not exactly easy to do on a car with the ignition coils mounted on the valve covers...unless you can manage to somehow suspend them all in the air, the coils, wiring harness, and plug wires would get mangled pretty quickly.
You could if you carefully used my supercharger brace.

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Old 04-01-2012, 11:10 PM   #56
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But, ya, all jokes aside, I didn't really think about that.

And I've had to take mine off 3 or 4 times.
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