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Old 05-15-2013, 04:51 PM   #155
Raptor3141
 
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Only a two post which means the wheels would hang and not be supporting the car.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:52 PM   #156
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No worries. Do it at the alignment shop.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:53 PM   #157
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Thanks for the info and for assisting all of us. Great job!
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:26 PM   #158
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All I have is bmr toe bars and trailing arms...and bushing kit. Other wise stock shocks and suspension.

what would be the ideal drag race 4 wheel alignment? I am running drag radials on a 20.

I am looking to run 10.00 on a 20 btw

thanks for your help.
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:02 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acowherd View Post
All I have is bmr toe bars and trailing arms...and bushing kit. Other wise stock shocks and suspension.

what would be the ideal drag race 4 wheel alignment? I am running drag radials on a 20.

I am looking to run 10.00 on a 20 btw

thanks for your help.
Do you run skinnies?
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:02 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Do you run skinnies?
Stock.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:34 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acowherd View Post
Stock.
The REAR is easy.

Toe IN 0.10
Camber 0.00

The front is more interesting. With a full size street tire we want to air it up to max inflation and max camber it in to run on the inside shoulder making it a third cousin to a skinny. With a skinny 0.00 camber is where we want to be. Running camber on a skinny increase the tire contact patch.

The camber screw in the knuckle is 10mm 1.5 pitch. Get the alignment set to these specs.

Front
Camber -1.00
Toe IN 0.15
Total Toe IN 0.30

With the alignment set and the camber screw seated grind a mark even with the flat of the knuckle. This is your DD camber setting. At the track, jack the car up. Loosen the clevis bolts and tighten the camber screw. This is add 1 degree of negative camber for the drag strip. For your drive home reset the camber by screwing out the camber screws until the grind mark is flush to the flat of the knuckle.
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:16 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The REAR is easy.

Toe IN 0.10
Camber 0.00

The front is more interesting. With a full size street tire we want to air it up to max inflation and max camber it in to run on the inside shoulder making it a third cousin to a skinny. With a skinny 0.00 camber is where we want to be. Running camber on a skinny increase the tire contact patch.

The camber screw in the knuckle is 10mm 1.5 pitch. Get the alignment set to these specs.

Front
Camber -1.00
Toe IN 0.15
Total Toe IN 0.30

With the alignment set and the camber screw seated grind a mark even with the flat of the knuckle. This is your DD camber setting. At the track, jack the car up. Loosen the clevis bolts and tighten the camber screw. This is add 1 degree of negative camber for the drag strip. For your drive home reset the camber by screwing out the camber screws until the grind mark is flush to the flat of the knuckle.
Thank you sir! I'll give those specs a try.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:44 PM   #163
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So I have a 2011 2ss. I use my camaro as a daily driver but autocross quite a bit, 10-12 events a year. Just now doing some mods. I bought a used zl1 rear bar, and ordered new zl1 end links and control arms. When I swap the zl1 parts, what alignment specs do I use?
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:17 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by Rad_dsm View Post
So I have a 2011 2ss. I use my camaro as a daily driver but autocross quite a bit, 10-12 events a year. Just now doing some mods. I bought a used zl1 rear bar, and ordered new zl1 end links and control arms. When I swap the zl1 parts, what alignment specs do I use?
Aggressive Street sir.

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Old 06-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #165
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Hey JusticePete I sent you a PM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:58 PM   #166
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FE3 Aggressive Street, the less negative rear camber the better.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:12 PM   #167
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FE3 Aggressive Street, the less negative rear camber the better.
Thank you sir! That's what I'll use!
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:20 PM   #168
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You're welcome. Let us know hot it drives after the alignment.
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