Not bad for rattle cans ey?

[midnighter]

I wanted my original front fascia not to have front license plate holder holes so bad that I did the unthinkable using rattle cans and low and behold...



















I had my local auto paint shop put IBM enamel into 2 rattle cans for a basecoat. 20 minutes later I sprayed 3 cans of urethane clear coat with a hardener activator.

The next morning I did a little wet sanding with some 1500 grt sandpaper. I machine buffed the flat areas and hand buffed the cranies. What a big pain that was. I installed the fascia this morning and whalah!

Not bad for $150.00 worth of materials, of which I already had most of in my basement.

[DesertCamaro]

It can be done with rattle can, absolutely. Only issue you may run into is it may rock chip easier. I've seen people rattle can entire cars and you'd never be able to tell it wasn't professional, after sanding and buffing of course. Nice work!

[2010 SSRS]

absolutely awesome job, looks like new again

[midnighter]

Thank you guys. It was also a good pastime doing it and taking pride in the results.

I picked up my SLP rear spoiler yesterday from the bodyshop too since the shop still hadn't got to it. I will be painting it myself tomorrow or the next day. Here it is so far...





This is one of the ends I cut off.

[jeremywes]

How much dry time did you give between coats of clear?

[Stealth 2010 2SS/RS]

Looks good.

[midnighter]

Originally Posted by jeremywes

How much dry time did you give between coats of clear?

10 minutes w/ heat lamp near by and inside a 75 degrees warm room.

Originally Posted by Stealth 2010 2SS/RS

Looks good.

Thank you

[My Caroline]

Would you mind explaining the process a bit more? What did you use to fill the holes? How did you smooth that out? What primer was used? What kind of paint is it and what paint ships will mix auto paint into a rattle can? What is urethane clear and hardener?

Finally, did you just use OTC polishes like a swirl and haze remover and work down? Or did you have to use a different polish?

Sorry for all the questions. I would just love to do my own work. With some practice of course.

[midnighter]

Originally Posted by My Caroline

Would you mind explaining the process a bit more? What did you use to fill the holes? How did you smooth that out? What primer was used? What kind of paint is it and what paint ships will mix auto paint into a rattle can? What is urethane clear and hardener?

Finally, did you just use OTC polishes like a swirl and haze remover and work down? Or did you have to use a different polish?

Sorry for all the questions. I would just love to do my own work. With some practice of course.

I used regular ol' JB Weld to plug the holes. (DO NOT USE IT ON FLEXIBLE PARTS AS I HAVE DISCOVERED) I had to heat the bumper cover with a hair dryer and press the warped areas with my thumbs for a bit to remove the minor warps in the fascia in order to achieve a smooth surface.







This is the only kind of filler that should be used for flexible bumper repair:








This is the key:





This clear is $20.00 per can and is good for 48hrs after you punch this activator pin under the can. This is autobody shop grade clear coat, not the cheap dull stuff. The basecoat, the auto paint and supplies store mixes me a pint of my car's color. Then they put it in special rattle cans (4 cans per pint). I use high build primer and wet sand it smooth for the best results:



They can't put all colors in a basecoat rattle can but I got lucky.

Here is my latest project that I just finished painting (ZL585 rear spoiler):

[Angrybird 12]

Was there flex agent in the paints you used?
I'm not sure if regular JB weld will work on flexible plastics..

[midnighter]

Originally Posted by Angrybird 12

Was there flex agent in the paints you used?

Nope. They normally won't even use flex agents in bodyshops. It's like anything, if you over flex the bumper the paint will crack. I have not had any problems with any of my work that I wouldn't have had when the bodyshop did the painting.

I spend more time letting my paint let off all the trapped gasses between coats for better results(several thin coats). The shops want to rush through and get your stuff in and out quick.

JB weld sticks to anything. I've used it for years with no problems.

[Angrybird 12]

Originally Posted by midnighter

Nope. They normally won't even use flex agents in bodyshops. It's like anything, if you over flex the bumper the paint will crack. I have not had any problems with any of my work that I wouldn't have had when the bodyshop did the painting.

I spend more time letting my paint let off all the trapped gasses between coats for better results(several thin coats). The shops want to rush through and get your stuff in and out quick.

JB weld sticks to anything. I've used it for years with no problems.

It's not only from the flexing of the bumper but from the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to temperature changes. If the paint or JB weld do not expand or contract at the same rate it can cause problems. I have seen it many times.

[midnighter]

Originally Posted by Angrybird 12

It's not only from the flexing of the bumper but from the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to temperature changes. If the paint or JB weld do not expand or contract at the same rate it can cause problems. I have seen it many times.

That can be, I have not seen it so far. I wouldn't go as far as doing any major repairs on a urethane bumper with JB weld but all I did was plug six 1/4" holes and stuck some plastic backing on the inside of the bumper cover to help the JB weld stay intact. I waswaiting on a new bumper from Gary's but it arrived cracked so back to them it went. (careless but expensive shipping)

This was just a supposed to be a temperary solution until I got my new painted bumper. Well have to see what happens now.

[Angrybird 12]

Originally Posted by midnighter

That can be, I have not seen it so far. I wouldn't go as far as doing any major repairs on a urethane bumper with JB weld but all I did was plug 6 1/4 holes and stuck some plastic backing on the inside of the bumper cover to help the JB weld stay intact. I was waiting on a new bumper from Gary's but it arrived cracker so back to them it went.

This was just a supposed to be a temperary solution until I got my new painted bumper.

Oh ok, it may be good in the short term, but for long term I would probably go with the repair fillers made for flexible bumpers.