Stereo GUIDE ALL READ

[Nexus6]

Originally Posted by CamaroSkooter

For the average consumer who can't "make their own cables," then, what kind of cable would you recommend?

Whatever is the cheapest at whereever your having it done.You will not be able to hear the the difference.Just like when people said "Minidisc sucks,because it has a low bitrate." and then they could not tell if i was playing a minidisc or cd

[bigdrew2008]

Hello,

Crutchfield has an Amp Wire Sizing guide that lists the wire neccessary based on approximate draw from your amps. That guide is available here: http://www.crutchfield.com/Learn/lea...uge_chart.html

If your have a two Amp setup with one amp for speakers, 4 channel by 50 watts and a sub amp with 600 watts by 1 channel, you would calculate using the following method.

4 * 50 = 200
1 * 600 = 600
600 + 200 = 800
800/13.8 = 57.97 amps rounds to 60amps

I believe this means you would use a 60amp fuse and 8guage wire. I would however use 4 guage wire to be safe. If you find that your 60amp fuse keeps blowing, first check your system setup for shorts, then increase the amp size by 1 to the next largest amp size.

Cable is generally cable. The most important part is the guage of the wire. You want "oxygen-free" wire. If you are planning to re-wire the speakers as well, you will want twisted speaker wire as it helps to shield against interference running from your amp to your interior speakers. This interference isn't a big deal for short lengths of wire, i.e. amp to subwoofer.

I am by no means an expert, I am just trying my best to help with some information.

[Rogue Leader]

Originally Posted by Nexus6

Whatever is the cheapest at whereever your having it done.You will not be able to hear the the difference.Just like when people said "Minidisc sucks,because it has a low bitrate." and then they could not tell if i was playing a minidisc or cd

I do home theater as well. I love the $150 3 foot Monster HDMI cables that promise better sound and picture. Meanwhile you can get a 3 foot HDMI at firefold.com for $7 and no human could ever tell the difference... its a pure digital signal, it either works... or it doesn't. But people feel better about themselves for spending $150.

[hiway61revisted]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

("Ok here we go. here are a few things that are important in the audio world." )

The only important thing in the audio world is hearing music the way the artist intended it to be heard, I have been tinkering with car audio since the 8-track days, and nothing you said makes any sense to me wildbeast !! You are creating a huge mess and spending tons of money in the process, I will pretty much leave the factory system alone. and spend my money on buying cd's by Foghat,Thin Lizzy, Cheap Trick Nazareth,REO,Foreigner .....,lol

[2010SLVRBULIT]

Unless you are competing, generally use a fuse block/circuit breaker that can support the total amperage draw of your system. If unsure, check with a Car Audio Store, for you also don't want to grill your expensive sound system...

Sealed boxes will play lower and more accurate, than ported boxes(louder @ tuned frequency). it's just that the sealed boxes may play @ such low frequencies inaudible
to human ears..whales maybe

Some of the amps I used to run required external(huge) fuses...ie US Amps..hehehe

..but seriously, this is a Camaro forum..

[Miketebo22]

Im going to be running 2 12" JL W3's with 2 Memphis 600Watt Mclass amps. They seem to hit pretty hard but are also very clean

[Burlap]

Originally Posted by Rogue Leader

I do home theater as well. I love the $150 3 foot Monster HDMI cables that promise better sound and picture. Meanwhile you can get a 3 foot HDMI at firefold.com for $7 and no human could ever tell the difference... its a pure digital signal, it either works... or it doesn't. But people feel better about themselves for spending $150.

Try out www.monoprice.com better rates in my expierience.

[CWI]

I run seperate 4 GA cable from the battery to each of my PDX Alpine amps. I use a 30A fuse on each plus four 25 amp fuses on each amp. No power loss between battery and amps. The weak link as in most car audio systems is indeed the alternator, it is so hard to make people understand that.
Think about it this way, what causes black outs in public power supplies. It happens when demand exceeds supply. Car audio does the same thing, what do you think is happening when youv'e got it cranked and the headlights dim? Why do so many people think they can fix that with a battery or a cap? It comes down to needing more power which you will ONLY get from a higher output alternator.

[Rogue Leader]

Originally Posted by Burlap

Try out www.monoprice.com better rates in my expierience.

I totally screwed up that price it was OTTOMH.....

Firefold 3 foot HDMI $4.49 ea, $3.84 ea for 50+
Monoprice 3 Foot HDMI $6.48 ea, $4.64 ea for 50+

not trying to be a jerk, just a price comparison, because i have been using firefold for years for my installs they have been good to me.

[Rogue Leader]

Originally Posted by CWIweldace

I run seperate 4 GA cable from the battery to each of my PDX Alpine amps. I use a 30A fuse on each plus four 25 amp fuses on each amp. No power loss between battery and amps. The weak link as in most car audio systems is indeed the alternator, it is so hard to make people understand that.
Think about it this way, what causes black outs in public power supplies. It happens when demand exceeds supply. Car audio does the same thing, what do you think is happening when youv'e got it cranked and the headlights dim? Why do so many people think they can fix that with a battery or a cap? It comes down to needing more power which you will ONLY get from a higher output alternator.

Absolutely true....

But a 150 amp fuse is still useless on a power line to 1 amp... match the fuse to the amp

The problem is yes people use Caps as a bandaid for a power system that can't crank what they want. But in the same respect you don't need a 250 AMP alternator all the time either. A cap can be used to juice up your bass a little in a system on a car with 1 or 2 amps that already has a decent stock alternator (110amp +), however if you plan to drive that system hard all the time or add more, then putting a bigger alternator in is the way to go, and I would still leave the cap in anyway.

[2010SLVRBULIT]

IASCA only does SQL, they've done away w/ dB Drags(SPL)..you don't have to have a monster system to compete in IASCA.

[2010SLVRBULIT]

Originally Posted by SemperFi

All over my head. Since you seem to know a lot... The most useful information to me would be for you to tell us what you are putting in your car (or what you would). Maybe start a member journal..

IMO..$$$ no object, go with Dynaudio components up front, anchor it with
Image Dynamics IDMax subs, use Zapco or Macintosh amps.

Depeding on how well these BAs sound, I may replace them w/ Rally Set(sound better than Pros IMO) or MB Quart, maybe throw in a couple Soundstream Ref amps, a few Audiocontrol processors, and a couple of 'clean' sounding subs..

[Rogue Leader]

Originally Posted by 2010SLVRBULIT

IASCA only does SQL, they've done away w/ dB Drags(SPL)..you don't have to have a monster system to compete in IASCA.

that wasn't the point of my comment, but ok whatever....

[Sniper4x4]

Originally Posted by Rogue Leader

Absolutely true....

But a 150 amp fuse is still useless on a power line to 1 amp... match the fuse to the amp

My single Rockford Fosgate Power T8004 is recommended by the factory to use a 150 amp fuse, I opted for a 150amp circuit breaker instead