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Old 09-17-2013, 06:39 PM   #85
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Great choice, you certainly can't go wrong with Brembo. Very high quality. Nice job...
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:57 AM   #86
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Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the banjo bolts for the calipers?
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:53 AM   #87
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Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the banjo bolts for the calipers?
The ZL1 Brembo upgrade kit instructions say 40 N-M (30 lb -ft). I'd think it would be the same for the SS Brembos.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:52 AM   #88
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Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the banjo bolts for the calipers?
We usually do 20 ft-lbs

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Old 09-28-2013, 06:09 PM   #89
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Ok. The front 2012 SS Brembo calipers I bought has the weights on them from the factory but no rollers. Should I leave the weights on them or can I take them off?
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Last edited by CamaroLS; 09-28-2013 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #90
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Unless you are repainting or powder coating, leave them on.

They are supposed to reduce noise.

Those are probably 2010 brakes. Check the dust boots carefully. It may be time to replace them.

The rollers you mention are part of the pads, not the calipers.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:03 PM   #91
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Unless you are repainting or powder coating, leave them on.

They are supposed to reduce noise.

Those are probably 2010 brakes. Check the dust boots carefully. It may be time to replace them.

The rollers you mention are part of the pads, not the calipers.
I am going to have them powder coated yellow. I know the rollers are part of the pads. They have the factory original pads with only 5,000 miles and pads are thick and look brand new so the boots should not need replaced. He showed me his car and it was a 2012 they came off of. So does the roller pads or the weights work better?
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:15 PM   #92
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I'm doing my upgrade in a couple of weeks.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:19 PM   #93
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I am going to have them powder coated yellow. I know the rollers are part of the pads. They have the factory original pads with only 5,000 miles and pads are thick and look brand new so the boots should not need replaced. He showed me his car and it was a 2012 they came off of. So does the roller pads or the weights work better?
I don't know.

I'd try the lubricant solutions to noise offered elsewhere on this forum before I'd go with the rollers. The rollers appear like they'd make it harder to wash the wheels. They'd also make switching to a 19" wheel (like the Z/28) a non starter.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:40 PM   #94
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I don't know.

I'd try the lubricant solutions to noise offered elsewhere on this forum before I'd go with the rollers. The rollers appear like they'd make it harder to wash the wheels. They'd also make switching to a 19" wheel (like the Z/28) a non starter.
Ok. So should I stay with the same brake fluid or upgrade to the Motul?
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:46 PM   #95
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I'm doing my upgrade in a couple of weeks.
Good to hear!! So I take it you found everything you need.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:47 PM   #96
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Ok. So should I stay with the same brake fluid or upgrade to the Motul?
From what I have been told you want the DOT4 fluid if you are tracking the car. If not, DOT 3 should be sufficient.

DISCLAIMER: I'm just repeating what I have read/heard. You should ask a certified mechanic this question.
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:32 PM   #97
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From what I have been told you want the DOT4 fluid if you are tracking the car. If not, DOT 3 should be sufficient.

DISCLAIMER: I'm just repeating what I have read/heard. You should ask a certified mechanic this question.
I am going to the track a few times a year and used Prestone DOT 3 , never had a problem.At the end of the day I always have to bleed the brakes and there's always a spongy feeling after a day at the track , but once I bleed them , everything goes back to normal....I don't know what causes that , but it happends to all of my friends with different cars and different DOT ratings fluids,fancy racing fluids,and cheap fluids......So , go with DOT 3.
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:46 PM   #98
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I use dot 4 and never track the car

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