Planning to install Procharger (600+ HP), What to upgrade in the car?

[MANNYS2SS/RS]

Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC

I would leave the differential alone until it breaks, and just replace the axles themselves as those tend to be weak points.

I would also leave the bottom end alone until something happened to it, unless you're dead set on doing a stroker motor or something. A well thought out package with a good compressor, good supporting mods, and a good tune will last a very long time on an LS3's stock rotating assembly.

I would not just put the procharger on there and go for 620rwhp. Assuming your car is all stock it would take roughly 12-13 lbs of boost to do that. Adding a cam and headers would help you reach that number MUCH more safely and comfortably. A headers/decently cammed LS3 makes around 470 on a dyno jet. To obtain 620rwhp from there would only take about 8lbs boost. 8 lbs boost vs 13 lbs boost = lots less belt slip to combat, cooler IATs, and makes the engine a far more efficient air pump vs. relying on the blower to take up that huge difference. Also easier tuning wise if cammed/headers as you won't be so limited in timing.

Be aware of your fuel system too. To make 620rwhp you will need some kind of fuel pump (in tank or BAP) and most likely larger injectors than what the procharger will come with. I like the fuel injector connection 850cc or 1000cc personally.

[axis]

Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC

I would leave the differential alone until it breaks, and just replace the axles themselves as those tend to be weak points.

I would also leave the bottom end alone until something happened to it, unless you're dead set on doing a stroker motor or something. A well thought out package with a good compressor, good supporting mods, and a good tune will last a very long time on an LS3's stock rotating assembly.

I would not just put the procharger on there and go for 620rwhp. Assuming your car is all stock it would take roughly 12-13 lbs of boost to do that. Adding a cam and headers would help you reach that number MUCH more safely and comfortably. A headers/decently cammed LS3 makes around 470 on a dyno jet. To obtain 620rwhp from there would only take about 8lbs boost. 8 lbs boost vs 13 lbs boost = lots less belt slip to combat, cooler IATs, and makes the engine a far more efficient air pump vs. relying on the blower to take up that huge difference. Also easier tuning wise if cammed/headers as you won't be so limited in timing.

Be aware of your fuel system too. To make 620rwhp you will need some kind of fuel pump (in tank or BAP) and most likely larger injectors than what the procharger will come with. I like the fuel injector connection 850cc or 1000cc personally.

This is pretty much dead on. Grocerygetter is putting out 620 with this combo but he's a A6 and running a decent stage 2 VVT cam. I think he's right around 9psi. The A6's are MUCH easier on the driveline than the M6's so rear suspension mods are more important for them.

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC

I would leave the differential alone until it breaks, and just replace the axles themselves as those tend to be weak points.

I would also leave the bottom end alone until something happened to it, unless you're dead set on doing a stroker motor or something. A well thought out package with a good compressor, good supporting mods, and a good tune will last a very long time on an LS3's stock rotating assembly.

I would not just put the procharger on there and go for 620rwhp. Assuming your car is all stock it would take roughly 12-13 lbs of boost to do that. Adding a cam and headers would help you reach that number MUCH more safely and comfortably. A headers/decently cammed LS3 makes around 470 on a dyno jet. To obtain 620rwhp from there would only take about 8lbs boost. 8 lbs boost vs 13 lbs boost = lots less belt slip to combat, cooler IATs, and makes the engine a far more efficient air pump vs. relying on the blower to take up that huge difference. Also easier tuning wise if cammed/headers as you won't be so limited in timing.

Be aware of your fuel system too. To make 620rwhp you will need some kind of fuel pump (in tank or BAP) and most likely larger injectors than what the procharger will come with. I like the fuel injector connection 850cc or 1000cc personally.

Great informations!
Thanks!

[grocerygetter]

actually SS3 VVT cam from GPI ... and yeah...fuel...I use a ZL1 pump with ADM's controller. You gotta remember...my dyno numbers are on an auto with a big stall. The car runs good enough for 10.5-7 range in the quarter...so yeah, in a manual a combo similar to mine would probably be 650-675.

[Bo White]

Get all of the rear suspension pieces you can get if its a manual tranny car. I have almost everything swapped out on the rear of mine and have not had a single axle hop with 588/540 at the wheels.

[Infern0]

Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC

I would leave the differential alone until it breaks, and just replace the axles themselves as those tend to be weak points.

I would also leave the bottom end alone until something happened to it, unless you're dead set on doing a stroker motor or something. A well thought out package with a good compressor, good supporting mods, and a good tune will last a very long time on an LS3's stock rotating assembly.

I would not just put the procharger on there and go for 620rwhp. Assuming your car is all stock it would take roughly 12-13 lbs of boost to do that. Adding a cam and headers would help you reach that number MUCH more safely and comfortably. A headers/decently cammed LS3 makes around 470 on a dyno jet. To obtain 620rwhp from there would only take about 8lbs boost. 8 lbs boost vs 13 lbs boost = lots less belt slip to combat, cooler IATs, and makes the engine a far more efficient air pump vs. relying on the blower to take up that huge difference. Also easier tuning wise if cammed/headers as you won't be so limited in timing.

Be aware of your fuel system too. To make 620rwhp you will need some kind of fuel pump (in tank or BAP) and most likely larger injectors than what the procharger will come with. I like the fuel injector connection 850cc or 1000cc personally.

Exactly right.

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Get all of the rear suspension pieces you can get if its a manual tranny car. I have almost everything swapped out on the rear of mine and have not had a single axle hop with 588/540 at the wheels.

What exactly did you swap?

[Bo White]

Cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, tie rod links and trailing arms and bushings.

[axis]

Originally Posted by T-r3x

What exactly did you swap?

Originally Posted by Bo White

Cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, tie rod links and trailing arms and bushings.

All of this helps minimize wheel hop which KILLS driveline parts. It's exponentially worse on the M6 than the A6.

[Erict]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, tie rod links and trailing arms and bushings.

What is a ballpark figure to have this professionally done, $2K or more?

[Bo White]

I wouldn't know really. I do know I can do it in one day easy in a driveway with hand tools, jack and jack stands the first try much less having done it and having a shop to work in with power tools.

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, tie rod links and trailing arms and bushings.

Sounds like a lot of money!

[Indyblue98]

Originally Posted by T-r3x

Sounds like a lot of money!

Been a while since the install but don't think the parts were $2k.
This will help keep your car going in the direction you intend even when you put your foot to the mat.
Plus reduce the stress on the half shafts and differential.

[Bo White]

69.95 Upper control arm bushings
249.95 cradle bushings
39.95 trailing arm outer bushing
149.95 trailing arms
129.95 toe rods
So roughly 650 bucks give or take, what ever labor rate to install would be the main question v