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Old 04-10-2013, 01:19 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by habunow1 View Post
I going to order the BBK long tube headers and HF cat this week and install them before the IPF is installed by Matt and the guys at FSP in Flordia. Suspension and brakes will be done as soon as the wife (financer) frees up funds after the install.

So after reading all the above post is there a better catch can which can be used with the IPF system or way to set it up to help insure the motor is not damaged. Maybe a scheduled maintance program other than regular oil changes that I can do to prevent any problems.

Wife not happy about me voiding the extended warrarty we have when it installed and the last thing I want to hear is her tell me I told you so. I need to be sure that I do all I can to prevent any problems that I can.

Again thanks for the input and it is giving me exactly what im looking for because this will be my first SC.
Cancel your extended warranty... you should get a prorated refund...
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:03 PM   #30
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Hello everybody !

i was reading between the line the explanations about clean evap side and dirty evap side and ist not allowed to mix them .... what a story!

every valve cover has an evap Connection to the intake to get rid of the crankcase exhaust gases .. when you boost the engine you MUST do the following changes :

1) Checkvalve to Keep boost out of the break Booster
2) Close all unused intake evap connectors
3) Checkvalve to the TANK EVAP System to Keep boost out of the Tank
4) all valve cover connectors must be collected into a collector pot
5) to expand the inner surface you can put steel wool inside the collector pot
6) the collector pot must be connected to the intake System before the SC

Normally you dont see much oil in the collector pot .... if YES .. then you have way tooo much crankcase pressure .. caused by too much boost ... too lean afr ... too much ignition advance with knocking ... !

greets ASH@IPF-TUNING
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:37 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ASH@IPF-TUNING View Post
Hello everybody !

i was reading between the line the explanations about clean evap side and dirty evap side and ist not allowed to mix them .... what a story!

every valve cover has an evap Connection to the intake to get rid of the crankcase exhaust gases .. when you boost the engine you MUST do the following changes :

1) Checkvalve to Keep boost out of the break Booster
2) Close all unused intake evap connectors
3) Checkvalve to the TANK EVAP System to Keep boost out of the Tank
4) all valve cover connectors must be collected into a collector pot
5) to expand the inner surface you can put steel wool inside the collector pot
6) the collector pot must be connected to the intake System before the SC

Normally you dont see much oil in the collector pot .... if YES .. then you have way tooo much crankcase pressure .. caused by too much boost ... too lean afr ... too much ignition advance with knocking ... !

greets ASH@IPF-TUNING
Thanks Arno!
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:16 PM   #32
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Ok I just got back from my daughters track meet and see all of this ( did not read it all yet ) but if there is bad blood between the two of yall keep it to yourselfs or start your own thread to call each other names. I will read all and will research everything and will insure the setup wont do any harm because of it being my DD and dont want to hear the bitching (I hate people bitching) from the wife.

I do appricate all the input and will give me alot of thing to look into. I know when you SC a engine it does put extra wear on the motor and Im ok with that. Just want to make sure I do all I can not put unnessary problems on it.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:31 PM   #33
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Thread cleaned up. Infractions and bans resulted.

I remind ALL sponsors to discuss only your own company, products, and services. Failing to do so is subject to infractions/suspension.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:19 PM   #34
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:20 PM   #35
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:58 PM   #36
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:19 PM   #37
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"3) Checkvalve to the TANK EVAP System to Keep boost out of the Tank"

Arno, why wasn't this addressed with my LFX/2012+ engine instructions? No one has answered this for me yet. No parts or instructions cover this step for my installation, as the thumb drive illustrations show an LLT and the set-up is different on the LFX. No response from Jesse at local IPF when I asked him.

Just curious. Because I paid for it.

Thanks in advance,

John B.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:35 AM   #38
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Hallo !

You should have this checkvalve here installed ... that is used to Keep boost out of the tank evap System !

see the checkvalve in the yellow ring !

greets ASH@IPF-TUNING
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:27 AM   #39
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that is not located on the LFX....
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:02 AM   #40
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New question to the evap system...

Why not vent everything open air??? Plumb everything to a vented can to catch any drips and be on your way. Sure its not epa but none of our other mods are either. This would eliminate all questions of crank case venting and oil ingestion would it not?
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:06 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macrackie View Post
New question to the evap system...

Why not vent everything open air??? Plumb everything to a vented can to catch any drips and be on your way. Sure its not epa but none of our other mods are either. This would eliminate all questions of crank case venting and oil ingestion would it not?
Yes, but you would then have to deal with the smell and the smoke under your hood. That probably wouldn't be acceptable for most.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:08 AM   #42
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The IPF system works just fine, it is included in the kit and is hooked up for the V6 DI motors.

------------------------

However, if I am doing a V8 from scratch... This is how I have done it for years, same routing that ECS has done for years so why change what is not broke!

Intake Manifold to PCV Valve (Can't blow through PCV from Int Mani), to Norris Catch Can, Other side out to Valley Cover. Have the air filter fresh air inlet line going to front valve cover. Then use the ECS Breather cap (Filtered breather). This has worked fine at 15+ psi!

Over that, we open the breather system up even more... Instead of running the breathered cap, we run 2x -10AN weld bungs off each valve cover to a dual inlet vented can. Then we still use the Norris can with the PCV valve inline as to not boost the crankcase. You are dealing with a lot of boost at this point and you just cannot keep everything sealed up and need more evacuation so seals can live. For the vented cans we usually put them down near the bumper/head light area so you do not get the in-cabin smell through the cabin filter.

Both ways work perfectly, like I had said the first way is exactly how ECS had come up with.
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