10-22-2009, 09:13 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, Chrysler 300 SRT8 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 160
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Garage Opener
Hey Guys,
Does anyone know if the factory garage opener on the 2SS can be installed on a 1SS??? I had to settle for the 1SS and I really want the Garage Opener. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
10-22-2009, 08:21 PM | #2 |
Pretty sure someone has done it.
You have to purchase the module from the dealer, the power connection is there if I'm not mistaken
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10-22-2009, 09:07 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Rally Yellow Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 124
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i too am interesting in getting this if someone sells this part
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10-22-2009, 09:19 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, Chrysler 300 SRT8 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 160
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Cool, I will call my dealer tomorrow and inquire about it. It seems like it shouldn't be too complicated to install.
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10-23-2009, 12:54 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2016 Corvette Z06 Blade Silver Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 822
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Someone has done it on this forum... but the power connection was not there. The SS1 and SS2 have a different wiring harness. (Also why the SS2 gauge pack is not a direct install.) If I remember correctly the person who did this mod had pics so a quick search should hook you up. Good Luck.
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10-23-2009, 09:28 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, Chrysler 300 SRT8 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 160
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Thanks! I will try and locate the person..
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10-23-2009, 11:15 AM | #7 |
SoCal Mayhem
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS/RS Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Foothill Ranch, CA
Posts: 5,488
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10-23-2009, 12:05 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, Chrysler 300 SRT8 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 160
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Thanks Slick Rick!! Truly Appreciated. Atleast I know it can be done.
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10-23-2009, 12:35 PM | #9 |
Drives: 17 SS Sedan, 04 SSR Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 333
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I'm that "person". I installed the 2SS headliner console into my 1SS since that was the only way to get the GM supplied Homelink universal remote (garage doors and other things) installed into my 1SS.
The power connector for the remote is not there, so I had to solder two wires to the remote and then tap into the switched power (not optimal but works) that goes to the center rear view mirror. It's been working just fine.
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10-23-2009, 01:11 PM | #10 |
SoCal C5 Family Member
Drives: 2010 Black 1SS Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 110
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Any pics of the wiring? How much did the console cost and Part#?
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10-23-2009, 04:00 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, Chrysler 300 SRT8 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 160
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Thanks again Shiftz33! Just like loopback i'm curious to see if you took any pictures of the install and wiring???
I looked up the part number and it's about $150. Not bad. Heres the Part# Homelink (console): 92235696 (Color - Black) |
10-23-2009, 04:06 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, Chrysler 300 SRT8 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 160
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Shiftz33, did the homelink console come with instruction as far as programming it????
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10-23-2009, 10:50 PM | #13 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: New York
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10-24-2009, 10:41 AM | #14 |
Drives: 17 SS Sedan, 04 SSR Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 333
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The only pictures I have are in the other thread (link already posted above).
The wiring is fairly simple. There's a 12v and ground wire lead you need to solder onto the homelink device since the GM wiring harness (for the 1SS) does not include the flat (male) wiring connector to plug into the home link device. I just searched my pictures and I cannot find a picture of the two leads soldered to the homelink device. I had to remove the homelink device from its plastic casing to solder the wire leads to the circuit board edge where the wire harness connector should go. If I could have found a similar flat connector I would have purchased it and used that instead of soldering directly on the homelink circuit board. There's a switched 12v wire [pink in color] in the wiring harness that leads out to the center rear view mirror. Normally, the Homelink remote has a non-switched 12v supply, but I did not feel like running a power lead to a fuse panel. I used a fused wire tap to get to the 12v power in the lead going to the mirror (that is unused in a 1SS). The programming of the homelink is like any other homelink device and it should be covered in the owner manual. The basics are you need to hold the left most and right most buttons for at least 20 seconds until the LED starts blinking (this means it has been cleared of any previous codes/programming). Then you press each button (and hold) while pressing the original remote you're trying to make the homelink emulate until the homelink quickly blinks (meaning it picked up the programming). There are some additional steps with rolling code garage door openers (sometimes) that need to be done on the remote opener. The only "tricky" part of getting this console out is that the dome light covers two mounting screws. You need to remove the dome light to get to the screws and I could not find an easy way to remove it from the console to gain access to the screws. I didn't try too hard, but it would be nice to know what I missed in removing the dome light (without breaking anything). I believe, while pulling down on the console I used a screw driver to push on the spring clip of the dome light to get it out. Not the best solution, but it worked. You must be careful otherwise you'll break the plastic of the headliner console if you pull to hard.
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