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Old 05-09-2014, 06:05 AM   #1
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AGP Twin Turbo Adjustable Boost

I have a TT AGP setup with the base turbos. We are still ironing out a few things, but the kit is well done and I love it.

However I want to follow up on my original goals which are this:
  • A modest HP gain for street driving, occasional Autox, and track day. On a track with curves HP does not rule. Also I love taking a cruise in my 1LE so street manners are also important.
  • I also enjoy drag racing which will be mainly Test and Tunes. It is as much a social event as anything else. But here I would like to bump up the boost to 8 pounds or so.
Right now my 1LE is on the lowest WG spring, so most of my low boost goals are met. Power delivery comes in at 2,750 and comes in fairly smooth and easy to control. At least on a warm day with sticky tires.

I have inquired about adjustable boost before and I was told, just get a manual boost controller. Simple. Yea that part is easy. But the tune is not so simple. And correct me if I am wrong but you cannot be adjusting boost that the Camaro engine management system cannot handle. I had a turbo BMW before switching to Camaros, and there you could simply fool the BMW EMS into thinking it was at a high altitude to get a 50 HP boost adjustment. But of course that car was designed for turbos.

My tuner is recommending a Speed Density tune for my 1LE, which makes sense from what I have read. Some other knowledgeable people have told me, "No you don't want that". Confusing.

So I am at a crossroads. For my goals would an improved after market EMS (ECU) also be something I should look into? But these seem to be very expensive.

But also the Speed Density tune itself is not cheap, although my tuner will work with me on this.

So my basic question it this. Would a SD tune and a simple boost controller meet all my goals? I do know I would only be able to set my boost at 4 and 8 pounds with the BC wide open allowing full vacuum (low boost) and restricted vacuum (higher boost) at a certain click on the BC. I can mark that level on the grid with a sharpie.

I also have an AEM Failsafe gauge that I would need to set to warn me if I screw up.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:18 AM   #2
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Factory ECU is fine. Just need it tuned at the boost levels you want to see. Tune it at 10 or 15 or whatever and you are fine turning it down to base or up to the max you tuned it at. SD tunes can do that fine, but a maf tune will too.
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Factory ECU is fine. Just need it tuned at the boost levels you want to see. Tune it at 10 or 15 or whatever and you are fine turning it down to base or up to the max you tuned it at. SD tunes can do that fine, but a maf tune will too.
Thanks! You inspired me to read more. It's a Speed Density VS MAF tuning thing. So I understand you cannot change the boost level without adding fuel. And also the MAF tune needs to be a little conservative to handle a low DA. I do like the idea of a MAF tune for driveability purposes, although this is still debatable.

So how would this be for an idea? I go back to my tuner and ask for another MAF tune with the boost controller set to some level like say 8-10 lbs. This new level would have to be within my fueling limits which is 850cc (80lb) injectors with a ZL1 fuel pump. Is there a limit on the range?

So if I get that 9 lb tune I would be fine turning the boost back to 4. if yes. I imagine here would I be running too rich? Or would the MAF handle that?

Then if I wanted and had both tunes I could buy a handheld tuner to hold thetunes and switch back and forth to better fit the boost I am looking for. Would there be any benefit to this?

If I did this is I would want to set up my boost controller to limit the high level. I know my boost controller does not do this. But I could put a hose clamp under the adjuster to limit how far it could be clicked down. Ugly but it would work. And limit anyone else who might fool with it.

Is this a reasonable plan? Am I closer to understanding?

I also need to learn what I should be looking for on my AFR gauge to keep an eye on things.
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Old 05-09-2014, 03:00 PM   #4
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It would just be one tune. Say at 4psi you see 11000hz on the maf and at 10psi you see 13000hz. Just different areas of the same map. Just have it tuned at 8-10psi or whatever then turn it down when you aren't at max power.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
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It would just be one tune. Say at 4psi you see 11000hz on the maf and at 10psi you see 13000hz. Just different areas of the same map. Just have it tuned at 8-10psi or whatever then turn it down when you aren't at max power.
Thanks Nick! I will talk to my tuner.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:26 PM   #6
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You just want to go speed density so you can run a super loud blow-off valve.


Ricer.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:29 PM   #7
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SD has nothing to do with that. This isn't a DSM/Supra. Maf is after BOV so doesn't matter. Only cars with maf before BOV need that.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:33 PM   #8
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SD has nothing to do with that. This isn't a DSM/Supra. Maf is after BOV so doesn't matter. Only cars with maf before BOV need that.
It was a joke. Good to know you've got no sense of humor. Happy Friday!
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:34 PM   #9
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I'd run an electronic controller or a dual-stage controller with a solenoid so you can flip a switch on the center console to go from low to high boost.
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Old 05-10-2014, 12:23 AM   #10
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AEM Tru-boost EBC
http://www.aemelectronics.com/tru-bo...ller-gauge-757

Many of us have installed this type of EBC for an on-demand Low/High boost setting.
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Old 05-10-2014, 12:39 AM   #11
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AEM Tru-boost EBC
http://www.aemelectronics.com/tru-bo...ller-gauge-757

Many of us have installed this type of EBC for an on-demand Low/High boost setting.
What he said.

I'm running 4# low (boost controller off, spring pressure), 9.5# max.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryNW View Post
AEM Tru-boost EBC
http://www.aemelectronics.com/tru-bo...ller-gauge-757

Many of us have installed this type of EBC for an on-demand Low/High boost setting.
I am a newbie but a big fan of turbos. I was recommended an AEM fuel pressure and boost/AF failsafe guage. I went with that combo. I do like the warning and data logging features of the failsafe gauge. My request for a multiboost setup was not taken into consideration during the install. Maybe I was not clear enough about my goals. So now I have a 4lb tune that needs a little more work.

So as recommended here I am asking and paying for that higher boost tune and abandon the old tune. But if my tuner disagrees with this setup then I will just keep the 4lb tune for now and look into this later. I like driving my car at this level. 550 Dynojet measured RWHP is fun but very streetable in my 4,000 pound car. And I can finally get into the 11s, just not very often. Driver mod needed. Working on that. But I am running right about where a stock ZL1 runs with DRs (11.9-12.2). Just what I expected at 4lbs.

I do like the idea of an electronic controller, but to spend the least amount of $$, and add to that my gauge pod is full, I see the manual set up as the only (?) option. The danger here would be if I made a mistake with the controller I could fry my engine. To help me avoid this I could put a hose clamp on the controller to prevent overboost.

I would look at some sort of boost controller that is more precise but does not go in the gauge pod and is affordable. Any suggestions?

I think everyone here agrees with the high boost tune with the ability to lower the boost to the WG spring level as a common setup.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:51 AM   #13
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Do not get a manual controller. If you want the car to be safe and reliable get a good boost controller. Manual controllers are very unreliable.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:48 AM   #14
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Agreed. Skip the manual. Hose clamp won't do anything.

There are plenty of EBCs that don't use a gauge pod. I know AGP shop car is running HKS EVC-S. Works great.

4lb tune doesn't disappear or goto waste, it just gets refined for high boost levels.
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