Drilled, Slotted, Drilled- Slotted or stock Rotors?

[1KillerSS]

People are calling BS on your statement that the holes are for looks.....

[Soloshawn]

As for those who challenged my estimation of my abilities here are some of the pictures from 1971 till 2000 racing in the top professional motocross, then roadracing where I won four superbike titles and two production titles when the field's were 60 deep in the prod class. After being paralyzed racing for Team America in the New Zealand National Championships where I am classified as somewhere between a quad and a para (have full function from chest level up) I turned to off road where I won 5 northwest championships against able bodied racers. Got bored so I switched to what I thought was the most competitive 4 wheel track racing in Superkarts. I crashed at Pacific Raceways flying from turn 5 to turn 7 of a distance of 200 feet and survived in what people said was the worst kart crash they had ever seen at the track. people walked away from the crash thinking I was dead. At that point my Mom made me a promise to quit and I did. Therefore I am relegated recently to driving on a track day with the vast majority being never have raced before know it alls at least on this site. I have been given last rites four times in my life about racing crashes and here I am. That makes it difficult to use my feet to go faster as I use hand controls with an automatic. If you're not on the brakes, you're on the gas. I do appreciate the technical help and after talking to Tom Prichett of Turn 2 Lapping he suggested plain rotors an Raybestos track pads with cooling. Also to get square 18" tires to help cure the understeer and a transmission cooler since the temp went up to 250F. Tom just rode a customer 2010 Callaway 600 HP with 6 piston caliper brakes and lots of other stuff and did a 2:00. So when I say I am pushing it over 100% that mean I am knowing what a real 110% is on a real race.

[Dexman1349]

Originally Posted by X25

If you don't track your car, I don't think you need CTS-V / ZL1 rotors. The bigger rotor is not for stopping in lower distances, but rather to be able to do it over and over again in track conditions. At the street, they will have time to cool down. If you want brakes that feel stronger, just upgrade to a pad with more (initial) bite.

I also don't need 400+rwhp for a daily driver. I don't currently track the car, doesn't mean I won't.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

I also don't need 400+rwhp for a daily driver. I don't currently track the car, doesn't mean I won't.

You should note ZL1 rotors do not have lightweight hats like most 2-piece rotors have, and are actually heavier than our OEM rotors, and so are the calipers. Most people think this is not too big of a deal, which is probably correct. 2-3 lbs per corner is indeed minor, but not insignificant. In other words, ZL1 brakes come at a bit of a cost besides price, and if you will not overheat OEM brakes at the street (and you shouldn't), it might not be to your best benefits to do the switch. You can always do the switch once you start going to the track with your car and need the extra capacity; no one is holding you : P

I personally didn't do the switch, and I'm thinking about going the BBK route with substantially lighter brake systems (like StopTech's ST60) if the stock system can't hold up. So far, with brake ducting, it did hold up.

[Snidely Whiplash]

The best brake upgrade I ever made on any vehicle was the installation of stainless steel lines. The brakes never felt so solid and no mushy pedal when they got hot. I was told the rubber parts of the lines would get warm and "balloon" which would make for mushy brakes.