How to beat a 475 HP Challenger? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

rockrau · 02-24-2015, 02:46 PM

Should I use my stock wheels with the Pirellis or my 1LE wheels and tires or something else?

Pro Stock John · 02-25-2015, 11:00 AM

Which Challenger is he getting, the R/T or an SRT8? Biiiig difference stock.

I think if you did exhaust, tune, control arms and toe rods (since you are stick), and drag radials the car should run mid 12's.

Aries240SS · 02-25-2015, 02:21 PM

full boltons, drag radials, toe rods, and a good driver. You'll put a bus length on that heavy challenger.

Fraxum · 02-25-2015, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockrau

Big Boss is taking delivery of a 15 Challenger with auto trans. My Boss has 11 or 12 Mustang GT with M/T stock. Thinking a show-down at Atco is inevitable. I'm thinking LTs+cats+ tune and drag tires on factory wheels AND PRACTICE! Draged raced motorcycles in the 80s never cars! Help! Big Boss is a "good ol boy" who likes to talk.I havn"t had any intrest in drag racing my Camaro until now only Road Course. I don't want to let down my fellow Camaro Brothers! HELP!

I'd be happy to race him for you. My car looks and sounds stock.

I would say to beat that 392 I would go full bolton with DRs as you say. That will put you around 12.2-5 Right around where the 392 will be with really good driving. You should have no trouble with the GT with your full boltons. The GT is fast but only a few drivers can get the most out of the GT 6M.

Let me know when the showdown happens. I'd like to be there. I can record the event. I might be able to help you with all those mods, PM Me.

While you can break things with even stock tires, smart launches will help your diff last. I have run 100+ runs on my stock diff with DRs. You do end up punishing the clutch a bit. When I upped the power to my current level that's when my posi gave up. I have a ZL1 diff now.

rockrau · 02-25-2015, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Which Challenger is he getting, the R/T or an SRT8? Biiiig difference stock.

I think if you did exhaust, tune, control arms and toe rods (since you are stick), and drag radials the car should run mid 12's.

R/T Scat Pack

rockrau · 02-25-2015, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fraxum

I'd be happy to race him for you. My car looks and sounds stock.

I would say to beat that 392 I would go full bolton with DRs as you say. That will put you around 12.2-5 Right around where the 392 will be with really good driving. You should have no trouble with the GT with your full boltons. The GT is fast but only a few drivers can get the most out of the GT 6M.

Let me know when the showdown happens. I'd like to be there. I can record the event. I might be able to help you with all those mods, PM Me.

While you can break things with even stock tires, smart launches will help your diff last. I have run 100+ runs on my stock diff with DRs. You do end up punishing the clutch a bit. When I upped the power to my current level that's when my posi gave up. I have a ZL1 diff now.

2010SSRSM6 · 03-10-2015, 10:39 AM

Do you have a budget in mind for mods? If you want to run away from them, add a set of LT headers, a cam and tune. That would put you over 460rwhp and even if you have shifting issues, you will be far enough ahead it won't matter. That should be somewhere around $3k.

rockrau · 03-10-2015, 11:15 AM

I would like to avoid a cam, there have been at least a few on this forum whom have destroyed thier engine on the road course.

1KillerSS · 03-10-2015, 01:48 PM

Add some juice! maybe a 100 shot.

2010SSRSM6 · 03-11-2015, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockrau

I would like to avoid a cam, there have been at least a few on this forum whom have destroyed thier engine on the road course.

That sounds horrible. I've got almost 40k on my cam/springs and 80k on the rest of the motor. I'd have a heart attacking something failed on the track.

With a set of LT headers, CAI and tune you'll be close to 420rwhp (480ish crank hp) so it would be a drivers race.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rockrau · 03-12-2015, 03:15 PM

So what I'm thinking with headers & tune I'll get small power to weight advantage.My Goodyear super car tires 20 X 285 with a 220 tread wear Vrs. the Challengers 20 X 245 with a tread wear of 440 will be another advantage. Challenger automatic vrs. Camaro manual trans. BIG disadvantage. I'm going to need a LOT of practice!

2010SSRSM6 · 03-14-2015, 06:21 AM

Make it a roll race and not a dig. lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ajax. · 03-18-2015, 06:19 AM

A cam swap is one of the best mods you can do to the car, if done right with all applicable supporting mods. ie heads/springs/rockers/lifters/stall etc. those who have busted up their motor usually cheaped out in one way or another or failed to properly break the cam in.

Regarding the 392/SS battle, you would have a better chance off the line than you would in a roll. The 392 is an absolute top end beast, it creates decent torque down low, but once in the zone they pull HARD.

Full bolt ons and a solid tune should do it. Chryslers ECU fails miserably in terms of being able to tune properly.

Col. Brain · 03-27-2015, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockrau

So what I'm thinking with headers & tune I'll get small power to weight advantage.My Goodyear super car tires 20 X 285 with a 220 tread wear Vrs. the Challengers 20 X 245 with a tread wear of 440 will be another advantage. Challenger automatic vrs. Camaro manual trans. BIG disadvantage. I'm going to need a LOT of practice!

150 shot of nitrous, a tune, and some drag radials

nothing like being "stock" and kicking the crap out of them

If you are running low 13s stock the nitrous should be good for atleast 1 solid second if not more.

If that cannot beat a pair of stock muscle cars well then idk.....at least you look stock!!!!!

02-24-2015, 02:46 PM	#15
rockrau Drives: 2010 2ss red LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: perkasie pa Posts: 533	Should I use my stock wheels with the Pirellis or my 1LE wheels and tires or something else? __________________ Pedders Pace Car Kit with ZL1 sway bar conversion & camber bolt kit.Lowered 1.5". 1LE tires & wheels. CAI air intake. Anvil CF rear spoiler.MGW shifter. 1 7/8" Kooks LT headers & HF cats.V-Max ported TB. Tuned.

02-25-2015, 11:00 AM	#16
Pro Stock John Writer Drives: 2010 SS / 1967 Camaro Join Date: May 2009 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 7,216	Which Challenger is he getting, the R/T or an SRT8? Biiiig difference stock. I think if you did exhaust, tune, control arms and toe rods (since you are stick), and drag radials the car should run mid 12's. __________________ PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I \| Part II 13.15@106 1.95 \| 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 \| + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 \| + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 \| + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 \| + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800

02-25-2015, 02:21 PM	#17
Aries240SS Drives: 2011 1SS RS Camaro, 1995 LSX 240SX Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 461	full boltons, drag radials, toe rods, and a good driver. You'll put a bus length on that heavy challenger. __________________ 2011 Camaro 1SS Whipple Supercharged street monster

03-10-2015, 10:39 AM	#21
2010SSRSM6 Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: DFW Posts: 6,558 View My Garage	Do you have a budget in mind for mods? If you want to run away from them, add a set of LT headers, a cam and tune. That would put you over 460rwhp and even if you have shifting issues, you will be far enough ahead it won't matter. That should be somewhere around $3k. __________________ UNDER CONSTRUCTION......again......

03-10-2015, 11:15 AM	#22
rockrau Drives: 2010 2ss red LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: perkasie pa Posts: 533	I would like to avoid a cam, there have been at least a few on this forum whom have destroyed thier engine on the road course. __________________ Pedders Pace Car Kit with ZL1 sway bar conversion & camber bolt kit.Lowered 1.5". 1LE tires & wheels. CAI air intake. Anvil CF rear spoiler.MGW shifter. 1 7/8" Kooks LT headers & HF cats.V-Max ported TB. Tuned.

03-10-2015, 01:48 PM	#23
1KillerSS Too much is never enough! Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Toledo,OH Posts: 4,149 View My Garage	Add some juice! maybe a 100 shot. __________________ AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq *Build thread* http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855

03-12-2015, 03:15 PM	#25
rockrau Drives: 2010 2ss red LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: perkasie pa Posts: 533	So what I'm thinking with headers & tune I'll get small power to weight advantage.My Goodyear super car tires 20 X 285 with a 220 tread wear Vrs. the Challengers 20 X 245 with a tread wear of 440 will be another advantage. Challenger automatic vrs. Camaro manual trans. BIG disadvantage. I'm going to need a LOT of practice! __________________ Pedders Pace Car Kit with ZL1 sway bar conversion & camber bolt kit.Lowered 1.5". 1LE tires & wheels. CAI air intake. Anvil CF rear spoiler.MGW shifter. 1 7/8" Kooks LT headers & HF cats.V-Max ported TB. Tuned.

03-14-2015, 06:21 AM	#26
2010SSRSM6 Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: DFW Posts: 6,558 View My Garage	Make it a roll race and not a dig. lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ UNDER CONSTRUCTION......again......

03-18-2015, 06:19 AM	#27
ajax. Drives: 12SS,12SRT8,14COPO,77Vette Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: FL Posts: 176	A cam swap is one of the best mods you can do to the car, if done right with all applicable supporting mods. ie heads/springs/rockers/lifters/stall etc. those who have busted up their motor usually cheaped out in one way or another or failed to properly break the cam in. Regarding the 392/SS battle, you would have a better chance off the line than you would in a roll. The 392 is an absolute top end beast, it creates decent torque down low, but once in the zone they pull HARD. Full bolt ons and a solid tune should do it. Chryslers ECU fails miserably in terms of being able to tune properly. __________________