Project clutch master cylinder/second gear grind

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by caverman

I have a question about bleeding the clutch. I know that when I did my MGW shifter I took off the trans cross member and it allow the trans to drop some in order to barely get my fingers in to get the shifter out. So, I was wondering if I could do the same and maybe get enough room to install a remote bleeder and/or without a remote bleeder would that allow easier access to the bleeder on the top of the trans?

I highly doubt you will be able to install the remote bleeder just by lowering the trans that little bit. The problem is the bleeder screw is long and is like 3 or 4 inches into the bell housing. you can take the original bleeder screw out but i don't think you will be able to get the speed bleeder back in. You can't see what your doing either because the hole in the bellhousing to access the bleeder screw is too high to see into.


The speed bleeder will definitely make life easier when bleeding so if you remove the trans to install a new clutch make sure you install the speed bleeder at the same time.

[caverman]

Originally Posted by IDEALG

I highly doubt you will be able to install the remote bleeder just by lowering the trans that little bit. The problem is the bleeder screw is long and is like 3 or 4 inches into the bell housing. you can take the original bleeder screw out but i don't think you will be able to get the speed bleeder back in. You can't see what your doing either because the hole in the bellhousing to access the bleeder screw is too high to see into.


The speed bleeder will definitely make life easier when bleeding so if you remove the trans to install a new clutch make sure you install the speed bleeder at the same time.

Do you think removing the trans cross brace to lower it a little would help with bleeding from the stock location? Looks like even a 1/4" clearance might help.

I'm thinking about doing your MC, a stainless clutch line, and aftermarket clutch return spring.

Bleeding the clutch is my biggest concern.

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by caverman

Do you think removing the trans cross brace to lower it a little would help with bleeding from the stock location? Looks like even a 1/4" clearance might help.

I'm thinking about doing your MC, a stainless clutch line, and aftermarket clutch return spring.

Bleeding the clutch is my biggest concern.

you may get more clearance lowering it, it may make it easier to get the 8mm wrench on the bleeder screw.

[was619]

Originally Posted by IDEALG

It's possible your slave cylinder is going bad

If people are having transmission issues the fluid you use makes a HUGE difference.
I tried RedLine ATF and it just isn't as smooth as the original mobil1 fluid. Just tried out Royal Purple and that is most definitely the best so far.

Just finished a cam swap so I might upgrade to the LS9 clutch to keep the smooth factory engagement. And get a new slave while I'm at it

[johnntab]

Since performing some major mods to my car last year, I have developed the sticky clutch problem, and this year I can't get into 3rd gear when I am trying to make a run on the dragstrip. It is also more difficult to get into any gear after a burnout at the strip. I planned to do the reservoir mod, but today I stumbled onto this thread. A good friend has done most of my performance mods, so I will enlist his help with this master cylinder and reservoir mod as well. I am placing my order as I complete this post.
Thanks for all of your work to solve our problems.
I have a couple of questions about the project also.
I am not in any way trying to steal your design, but am curious to know how you improved the flow, and no guarantees of course, but will this mod improve my 2-3 shifting on the dragstrip?
I am making about 780 rwhp on with an rps clutch.
Again thank you for your help.
John

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by johnntab

Since performing some major mods to my car last year, I have developed the sticky clutch problem, and this year I can't get into 3rd gear when I am trying to make a run on the dragstrip. It is also more difficult to get into any gear after a burnout at the strip. I planned to do the reservoir mod, but today I stumbled onto this thread. A good friend has done most of my performance mods, so I will enlist his help with this master cylinder and reservoir mod as well. I am placing my order as I complete this post.
Thanks for all of your work to solve our problems.
I have a couple of questions about the project also.
I am not in any way trying to steal your design, but am curious to know how you improved the flow, and no guarantees of course, but will this mod improve my 2-3 shifting on the dragstrip?
I am making about 780 rwhp on with an rps clutch.
Again thank you for your help.
John

It's a combination of larger cylinder and longer stroke.
you should feel improvement in your shifts
good luck and let us know how you make out.

[LS3 Handler]

Well I finally installed IDEALG's master cylinder and remote reservoir. Prior to the install I changed my tranny fluid to Amsoil fluid and I noticed that the high rpm shift grind to 2nd had mostly gone away. After the install it is completely gone and shifts feel smoother and engagement less notchy. I defiantly recommend it even if you don't drag race or drive hard (but if you don't your prolly not drivin a manual).

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by V6 LS Supercar

Well I finally installed IDEALG's master cylinder and remote reservoir. Prior to the install I changed my tranny fluid to Amsoil fluid and I noticed that the high rpm shift grind to 2nd had mostly gone away. After the install it is completely gone and shifts feel smoother and engagement less notchy. I defiantly recommend it even if you don't drag race or drive hard (but if you don't your prolly not drivin a manual).

Thanks for the feedback

[IDEALG]

Cylinder are sold out!! Sorry guys

I will have more in about a week

[TornadoSS]

Has anyone ever used one of these improved master cylinders with a Mcleod RXT? I am doing an rxt clutch and it states to use factory/OEM hydraulics.

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by TornadoSS

Has anyone ever used one of these improved master cylinders with a Mcleod RXT? I am doing an rxt clutch and it states to use factory/OEM hydraulics.

If you don't already have my master cylinder and are worried just put your new clutch in first and don't forget to buy a speed bleeder and install that while your in there and see how it works out.

You shouldn't have any problems regardless

[TornadoSS]

Originally Posted by IDEALG

If you don't already have my master cylinder and are worried just put your new clutch in first and don't forget to buy a speed bleeder and install that while your in there and see how it works out.

You shouldn't have any problems regardless

Thanks! Actually yours is already in there, but, I think I'm gonna switch it out with my new stock one to see how it feels. Then if it has issues I'll just swap the modified one back in. I was hoping someone might have tried it already. And yes, the speed bleeder hose is already attached to the new slave cylinder!

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by TornadoSS

Thanks! Actually yours is already in there, but, I think I'm gonna switch it out with my new stock one to see how it feels. Then if it has issues I'll just swap the modified one back in. I was hoping someone might have tried it already. And yes, the speed bleeder hose is already attached to the new slave cylinder!

I'm sure someone has one with that clutch, hopefully they will see your post and let you know.

[IDEALG]

unfortunately due to a roof collapse in my anodizers building the cylinders won't be ready until mid to late next week. sorry for the delay.