11-12-2016, 11:17 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2022 Camaro 2SS 1LE M6 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Ridgecrest California
Posts: 80
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I don't get "haggling" new car prices
I'm 33 years old. I've bought my fair share of cars. Mostly used, but a few new cars. I've haggled and bargained when buying used cars, but I don't understand how to haggle for a new car.
I custom ordered my 2010 Chevy camaro SS in 2008, and took delivery in 2009. It was right in the beginning of the 5th gen camaro craze, when dealers were charging $10,000 markups, and people were paying them. I paid MSRP for my camaro. That seemed fair, since it was a very, very high demand car in the fall of 2009. I bought a new 2009 ford focus in 09 as well. When I started "negotiations" the salesman threw out a price $3,000 below invoice, and then added on some incentives. I drove out of the dealer with a brand new car that I paid $13,500 for, including tax/tag/title, and the MSRP was $16,800. I didn't haggle. I just said OK. Did I get swindled? IDK. I'm looking at a new 2016 ford fiesta now as a daily commuter car. The MSRP is $17,700. Once again, the salesman's starting price is low at $14,200. Truecar, KBB, USAA, etc, all say that the "fair market price" for this car is $15,500 with the options it has equipped. How do I haggle with this guy? He's already cutting me a deal, right?
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2022 2SS 1LE M6
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11-12-2016, 03:27 PM | #2 |
Left Lane Enforcer
Drives: '18 ZL1 1LE. Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: New York City
Posts: 292
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Just like a job offer ask for a better deal every time. Imply you're going elsewhere. I've done this on every deal every which way. Sounds like a great deal already? Go for ten percent. Ask for 13000 and add that you'll buy it then and there.
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Current Cars:
2018 Camaro ZL1 1LE 2012 Ford Focus SE 1994 Evo II Previous Cars: 2017 Camaro SS 2014 Chevy Malibu LTZ |
11-12-2016, 06:11 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2016 1SS, 2017 JKU Wrangler Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Diego
Posts: 876
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If it is already that far below what Trucar and KBB says is fair, just buy it. You're going to go through the hassle of shopping the guys numbers and in the end get a better deal by maybe $100 bucks. Dealers are doing their best to take haggling out of the equation by giving bottom dollar prices up front.
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SLO 1SS - sold
1SS MRC NPP 6MT 2018 Ram Rebel 4x4 5.7 |
11-12-2016, 06:24 PM | #4 |
General Motors Aficionado
Drives: 2023 GMC Canyon, 2020 Colorado Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 37,371
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We've never haggled. Just tack on employee pricing and GM card and hand over the keys.
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2023 GMC Canyon Elevation 2020 Chevrolet Colorado W/T Extended Cab (State-issued) |
11-14-2016, 12:51 PM | #5 |
Drives: 16 Camaro SS, 15 Colorado Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 13,943
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There are times to haggle and times not to haggle in my opinion.
Some people will want to haggle always, even if its already an incredible deal. Without haggling they will just feel like they could have done better and that's perfectly understandable. In your case, if you are happy with the price, and it seems fair, and you don't feel a need to haggle, then don't. But there are plenty of cases when someone should haggle. For instance right now if you were to find a leftover 2016 Camaro on a lot, and that dealer is still not coming far enough off MSRP, but you want that car, you haggle, you walk, and then you wait for them to respond.
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2016 Camaro 1SS - 8-speed - NPP - Black bowties
2010 Camaro 1LT V6 (Sold. I will miss her!) |
11-14-2016, 01:09 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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My first car I bought I haggled and got them to drop nearly 4K off the asking price. So far that is the only car I've been able to successfully negotiate the price on. I think any new car you should just pay the price so long as it's MSRP or below it. Above MSRP then find a new dealership, don't even bother haggling.
Now on used cars it's a different story because you will have things that could knock the price lower. In my case it was the fact that the car had been in an accident but the accident wasn't on carfax. Don't get me started on carfax reports...
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 Last edited by xc_SS/RS; 11-14-2016 at 01:22 PM. |
11-14-2016, 01:10 PM | #7 |
Drives: '16 Z06 7 Spd, 2024 High Country HD Join Date: May 2015
Location: Kansas City area
Posts: 442
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The last 3 new vehicles I bought, the starting dealer price was pretty good. They didn't budge from sticker on my '16 z06 which I pretty much knew before I started. But you can always ask for something even if it's for 6-8 oil changes for any vehicle you have. Or have them drop/reduce the 'advertising fee' they always add on. Those don't really cost them much.
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11-14-2016, 01:20 PM | #8 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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The last few new cars I've bought, I contacted multiple Dealers on line and let them battle it out!
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11-14-2016, 01:29 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS, 1968 SS Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southeast, PA
Posts: 2,093
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Quote:
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LS3 Crate Engine Swap | CSP Custom Cam 232/240 .615/.615 113 +3 | Stainless Power LT Headers | Z28 Intake | Borla S-Type Exhaust | FTI Triple-Disc Billet 3200 Stall
2012 Camaro 2SS/RS | 1968 Camaro SS | 2020 Cadillac CT5 Premium Luxury | 2021 Spark LS |
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11-14-2016, 01:58 PM | #10 | |
Drives: 2015 SW 1SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 2,736
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Quote:
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“The Eagles and the Captain and Tennille ruled the airwaves, and we were the answer to it.” - Joey Ramone
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11-14-2016, 04:33 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2021 Shadow Gray 1LS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Streetsboro Ohio
Posts: 1,371
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I usually do some research after deciding which model I am buying.
That includes hitting sites like this, and others, to see what they have paid; the GM Family First Site, to see what employees pay; scoring or trying to score a 1000 or 1500 private offer. I make sure I know what rebates are out there. And all incentives. Employee price less any rebates is about as good a it gets. Or use a Private Offer if I have one. I search the dealer network myself to find my next car or truck (Mostly Cars.com) , and then visit that particular dealer( to eliminate the dealer trade scenario) and just deal with the poor son-of a-gun that has been stuck with the vehicle in his inventory. Usually the 26th-28th of the month. Usually go in 3-4 hours before closing. |
11-24-2016, 08:36 AM | #12 | |
Drives: 2018 1SS M6 Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,617
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Quote:
The last thing a dealer wants to do is discount the car beyond what they are getting reimbursed for from the factory. |
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11-24-2016, 10:17 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2015 BLK/BLK 2SS/RS MN6 Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: New Hampshuh
Posts: 266
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Dealers years ago (Pre reorg) were far more independent than today so deals could be had. Today, the deal is the deal, like it or not. That said, watch for another big selloff at this model year end again because they are not selling....my $.02.
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11-24-2016, 12:15 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2020 Orange Crush 1SS/1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 150
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Most of the time I haggle is when they are priced at or above MSRP or KBB/black book value. Some dealers will slap a higher price to make a big profit, others, especially the ones that don't haggle have either superb customer service, or a service department that is very productive. That is where they make the money, on services. So there is no need to mark up the car price.
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