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Old 03-30-2013, 08:34 AM   #15
JHall651
 
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We loaded my neighbors lowered car on a uhaul i i think he is 1.5" lowered. Only issue we had was the splitter trying to hit in very front of trailer where the indentions are for your tires to sit in. We cut some 2x12 pieces and put in there to hold the car up over the front of the trailer. Strapped her dwn she rode fine all the way from corpus christi to lethal in louisiana.
Was there additional room left on the trailer for the items in my previous post?
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:36 AM   #16
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Thanks for the info. That is good to hear. Can you explain the 2x10 a little more. Do you mean plywood that is 2" thick and 10" long? Also was there any room left to strap down other stuff to the deck of the trailer? I will have my 4 stock rims and tires, stock coilovers, and stock sway bars. Do you think there will be room for me to strap that stuff down too?
He means a 2x10 piece of lumber. You know, like 2x4...

I have to do the same thing to raise the front wheels so the cats clear the top of the dove tail. In case you don't know what I mean by dove tail, it's the part of the trailer in the rear that angles down. Different trailers have different lengths to aid in getting the car on without scraping.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:42 AM   #17
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He means a 2x10 piece of lumber. You know, like 2x4...

I have to do the same thing to raise the front wheels so the cats clear the top of the dove tail. In case you don't know what I mean by dove tail, it's the part of the trailer in the rear that angles down. Different trailers have different lengths to aid in getting the car on without scraping.
Thank you. I didn't know what dove tail was, very helpful. I'll be sure to get some extra pieces of lumber.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:14 AM   #18
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I use a set of drive on ramps and I back my truck up on them to reduce my break over point. This allows the splitter to clear and it wont high center when its half way up. I use the 12000 lbs rated ramps and then just toss them in the back of the truck.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:34 AM   #19
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It's going to be a hit or miss with UHaul. I looked at those before buying my trailer and there was no way my car would fit without hitting. I'm lowered 1" and then another .35" because of tire height. My problem is the cats hitting the dove tail on the trailer. I had to buy the long Race Ramps to lessen the angle so my splitter didn't hit. You and I have the same exhaust, so you need to watch that as well.

Pete is right on with securing it using the control arms. Do not try and tie it down with the suspension as some have mentioned on this site. I loop my rachet tie-downs around the rear LCA and the front LCA. The car doesn't slide on long trips. The wheel tie-down would work well if the trailer is equipped to use them.

Here's my setup.
Damn B, you have a trailer too. I might have to come down to visit to see what else you are hiding.

T.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:37 AM   #20
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use the slightest hump to pull ur back wheels of ur truck on and with the trailer still hooked up crank it down and throw the ass of the truck up in the air . this will lower the rear of the trailer. or if there is a nice lil hill or hump thats smooth and the right angle makes it alot easier.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:30 PM   #21
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Great suggestions and ideas guys. I think I will use a combination of a few. I have ramps to drive the front of the truck up on and plus I am going to get some 2x10's. I did just find out that the trailer I am renter only has front tire straps, now for the back I am just going to chain down the rear lower control arms as per suggested in this thread. Should I rap the lca with towels or anything?
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:30 PM   #22
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ya we alway x them at the rear helps with side to side movement.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:00 PM   #23
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ya we alway x them at the rear helps with side to side movement.
Good call. I forget to mention that. So he's saying the car rear left should be tied to the trailer's right side, and vice versa.

Also, I used small jack stands at the rear of the trailer so that when the weight of the car hits the rear of the trailer it doesn't drop. If you are close to hitting the splitter like me, this keeps the trailer from dipping. I use a bottle jack to raise the trailer to get the jacks out after the car is loaded.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:21 PM   #24
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Ok. Gotcha about the X strapping. I went and bought two 2" straps. Also went and looked at the trailer. It is uhaul's 7000 lbs trailer. Looks like it will be pretty easy. Even the ramps come out pretty far. The only thing that looked if'y was on the front of the trailer there is a lip where the tires bump up against and then you strap them down. That lip looked to be about 6-8" high. I hope my 1+" drop in the front does make that lip a pain. If so I thought I could always put some wood under the front tires to raise it a bit.
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:03 PM   #25
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Wow! Thx HRD_WRK! Already trucking with some Chevy on Chevy love. All you guys were a huge help. Thanks everyone. Oh and thank you Raymonds! Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365094960.309669.jpg
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:02 PM   #26
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Wow! Thx HRD_WRK! Already trucking with some Chevy on Chevy love. All you guys were a huge help. Thanks everyone. Oh and thank you Raymonds! Attachment 493563
Attachment 493564
Looks like you had to Dukes of Hazzard your way out of the car
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:26 AM   #27
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:29 AM   #28
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
You spend the money on a trailer with removable fenders. On my single open trailer the drivers door will just clear the fender. On low air the door rubs.
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