Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Fabberge
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions

Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions All DIY projects & discussions

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-23-2014, 04:01 PM   #326
chozn4service
Five-O
 
chozn4service's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 2SSRS RJT
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: +34° 55' 19.15", -117° 53' 22.43"
Posts: 2,418
I can't advise on part number as my shop ordered it and I picked it up. Cost was like $40, I think and that was their discounted cost


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3832170 : Praise The Lowered!
Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Vararam intake, Solo HFC, VMax Ported TB, VMax "Black Ice" manifold insulator, Trifecta Tune, Mike Norris Catch Can, DRL Harness, Heritage grill, Razzi GFX, NLP Spoiler, MPD1 Spoiler and more!
chozn4service is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 08:50 PM   #327
NotYetLegend
 
NotYetLegend's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 268
Hey guys, I recently did this install roughly following the advice on pg. 1 of this thread. Made the template the exact same way as described by the OP, worked great, wish the cardboard was sturdier but it works. Measured down the recommended 16 and 3/8” from the top of the hood to the outside rear of the template, taped her down and traced the inside with a silver sharpie (black car).

For whoever just asked about part number, I ordered from gmpartsdirect.com using this part number, 22828242

URL below to exactly the page I ordered from:

http://www.gmoutletparts.com/oe-gm/2...h_str=22828242

As has been stated, this part number ships you the extractor only. It has 6 bolts pre-attached to it, you DO have to go buy the 6 needed M6-1.00 nylon nuts to secure the extractor. I found these easily at Lowes in one of the drawers in Hardware, sold in packages of 4 or 5 so you will need two.

We started cutting the hole initially with a Dremel (mine is actually Blue Hawk brand...). The cutoff wheels I had were way too flimsy so we left to go back to Lowes and get Dremel-branded "reinforced" cutting wheels. They were much thicker and only came like 5 per package. You will need one or two packages to finish the cut. These wheels worked great; they wear down until they are too small (in diameter) to keep using, but they don't shatter after 30 seconds like the ones I started with.

After we got new cutting wheels we blazed through the rest of the detail cutting (from the top). The Dremel wheels are not large enough to also cut through the multiple cross-members under the hood's skin. For this we used a cheap sawzall from Harbor Freight with the "metal" cutting blades. We opened the hood and cut from the bottom, using the already dremeled cut as a guide for the blade. This was not fun, the sawzall is a brutal and unwieldy beast, but it cuts through the cross-members like butter. Have someone watch you cut from near one of the side view mirrors, instruct them to flag you if you accidentally start making a "new" cut (blade breaks out of the existing cut).

With the cross-member cutting done the portion of hood within your cut will come right out. Place that to the side and test-fit the extractor. We cut conservative so it was too tight of a fit at first. Put on a new reinforced cutting wheel on the Dremel and "grind" the sides/edges of your cut to slowly enlarge the hole ("grind" meaning to use the side of the wheel, not the edge). Continue to test-fit, find the specific area that is catching, and re-grind as needed until you get a nice tight fit.

At this point the nerve wracking stuff is over with; chill out and drink a beer or something. Next up is cutting the 3/4" aluminum strips (as recommended by the OP) to fit across the 3 pairs of bolts under the extractor (horizontally). We just held the aluminum up under the hood while the extractor was installed and marked the aluminum with sharpie where it grabbed the cross-members sufficiently. Cut to size and drill the necessary holes to accept the bolts. The OP got away with using a 1/4" drill bit, I had to waddle that at quite a bit to get the bolts to slide through easily, aluminum is soft so this was not difficult.

You're done! We used an electric leaf blower to blow out all of the metal shavings from the engine bay, adjusted the 6 mounting bolts for an even fit, closed the hood and gave it a quick polish.

Here is a time lapse video of the whole install, took about 4 hours (since we're newbs), wish I knew how to properly embed this:



P.S. For those of you who want to do this install and are "afraid" of it. This is not actually very difficult, it takes some patience and concentration but in reality it is not as big of a deal as you may believe. I have spent a bit of time wrenching on cars, BUT this is the first work I have ever done with the literal sheet metal of a car! It's all about making the template properly, if you can do this (it is a simple check by fitting it to the bottom of the extractor) you are almost there. Take your time with the rest and you'll be fine! Feel free to PM me any questions too, happy to help detail any of the bits of this install if it makes you feel more comfortable with it. Cheers!
__________________
"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen)
NotYetLegend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 09:42 PM   #328
Angrybird 12
Retired, Cancer Survivor
 
Angrybird 12's Avatar
 
Drives: 12 CAMARO 1LT, 08 Vue, 14 Spark
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: J. C. Tennessee
Posts: 18,133
When I put in my ACS TL1 insert I just used my Jigsaw with a sheet metal blade. It cut through the hood and bracing easily and never wore out. Sounds like the dremel is a pain and you use a lot of cutting disks.

Could someone tell me the actual measurements on the insert? I would also like to know the depth with and without the water diverter. Thanks
__________________
Cancer's a bitch! Enjoy life while you can! LIVE, LOVE, DRIVE...CAMARO!

Previous Camaros: 1974, 1979 and 2010.
Angrybird 12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 11:05 PM   #329
NotYetLegend
 
NotYetLegend's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 268
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybird 12 View Post
When I put in my ACS TL1 insert I just used my Jigsaw with a sheet metal blade. It cut through the hood and bracing easily and never wore out. Sounds like the dremel is a pain and you use a lot of cutting disks.

Could someone tell me the actual measurements on the insert? I would also like to know the depth with and without the water diverter. Thanks
Jigsaw would be a great choice. I own one but it was out at the woodshop in another county so I made do with my existing Dremel-clone (purchased for flow-tie creation/install) and sawzall (which I bought for my axleback install). I did not order the water diverter but I can measure the extractor for you at some point in the next few days if you want?
__________________
"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen)
NotYetLegend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 11:22 PM   #330
Angrybird 12
Retired, Cancer Survivor
 
Angrybird 12's Avatar
 
Drives: 12 CAMARO 1LT, 08 Vue, 14 Spark
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: J. C. Tennessee
Posts: 18,133
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotYetLegend View Post
Jigsaw would be a great choice. I own one but it was out at the woodshop in another county so I made do with my existing Dremel-clone (purchased for flow-tie creation/install) and sawzall (which I bought for my axleback install). I did not order the water diverter but I can measure the extractor for you at some point in the next few days if you want?
Thanks
__________________
Cancer's a bitch! Enjoy life while you can! LIVE, LOVE, DRIVE...CAMARO!

Previous Camaros: 1974, 1979 and 2010.
Angrybird 12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2014, 12:37 PM   #331
xc_SS/RS
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: G-burg, MD
Posts: 256
How would this work on hoods with the vinyl stripes? I imagine I would possibly need to replace them?
xc_SS/RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 03:28 AM   #332
Snidely Whiplash
Fight Crime, Drive Armed
 
Snidely Whiplash's Avatar
 
Drives: '14 2SS Yelo Maro, HD collection
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NRH, TX
Posts: 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry7297 View Post
Its just a small hole you can do it.



Thank you



Thank you I think it came out pretty good. Does anyone see a problem with water going onto the Throttle body???
My 2014 has no issue with water in the top engine area.
__________________
Yeah, um, er, ah, it's a stock motor, ugh, with only an exhaust. Yep, that's it.

RIP William Tyler "Grumpy" Jenkins - b 12-22-1930 d - 03-29-2012
Thanks Bill, for showing all the non-believers a 331" small block Chevy powered car could outrun a 426 Hemi powered car. Thanks for the tube chassis, the splay valve small block cylinder heads, the strut front suspension, and the dry sump oiling system. I applaud your becoming the once king of the NA motors builders. Most of all, thanks for the racing memories and inspiring many young guys to follow in your footsteps.
Snidely Whiplash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 04:29 AM   #333
chozn4service
Five-O
 
chozn4service's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 2SSRS RJT
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: +34° 55' 19.15", -117° 53' 22.43"
Posts: 2,418
I had the Hex Vents before and had vinyl rally stripes and you should tape the area you're working on with painters tape and draw your cut line on it and cut. Your stripes will still be there in tact minus the vent area or you can heat them up with a hair dryer and remove them and purchase the 2015 grill stripe kit from Big Worm Graphics.

Also the TB is a closed unit so no water can get into it. Also the rain allows for water to be dumped down by the radiator motor side.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3832170 : Praise The Lowered!
Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Vararam intake, Solo HFC, VMax Ported TB, VMax "Black Ice" manifold insulator, Trifecta Tune, Mike Norris Catch Can, DRL Harness, Heritage grill, Razzi GFX, NLP Spoiler, MPD1 Spoiler and more!
chozn4service is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 12:42 PM   #334
Jerry7297
 
Jerry7297's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Corpus Christi TX
Posts: 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotYetLegend View Post
Hey guys, I recently did this install roughly following the advice on pg. 1 of this thread. Made the template the exact same way as described by the OP, worked great, wish the cardboard was sturdier but it works. Measured down the recommended 16 and 3/8” from the top of the hood to the outside rear of the template, taped her down and traced the inside with a silver sharpie (black car).

For whoever just asked about part number, I ordered from gmpartsdirect.com using this part number, 22828242

URL below to exactly the page I ordered from:

http://www.gmoutletparts.com/oe-gm/2...h_str=22828242

As has been stated, this part number ships you the extractor only. It has 6 bolts pre-attached to it, you DO have to go buy the 6 needed M6-1.00 nylon nuts to secure the extractor. I found these easily at Lowes in one of the drawers in Hardware, sold in packages of 4 or 5 so you will need two.

We started cutting the hole initially with a Dremel (mine is actually Blue Hawk brand...). The cutoff wheels I had were way too flimsy so we left to go back to Lowes and get Dremel-branded "reinforced" cutting wheels. They were much thicker and only came like 5 per package. You will need one or two packages to finish the cut. These wheels worked great; they wear down until they are too small (in diameter) to keep using, but they don't shatter after 30 seconds like the ones I started with.

After we got new cutting wheels we blazed through the rest of the detail cutting (from the top). The Dremel wheels are not large enough to also cut through the multiple cross-members under the hood's skin. For this we used a cheap sawzall from Harbor Freight with the "metal" cutting blades. We opened the hood and cut from the bottom, using the already dremeled cut as a guide for the blade. This was not fun, the sawzall is a brutal and unwieldy beast, but it cuts through the cross-members like butter. Have someone watch you cut from near one of the side view mirrors, instruct them to flag you if you accidentally start making a "new" cut (blade breaks out of the existing cut).

With the cross-member cutting done the portion of hood within your cut will come right out. Place that to the side and test-fit the extractor. We cut conservative so it was too tight of a fit at first. Put on a new reinforced cutting wheel on the Dremel and "grind" the sides/edges of your cut to slowly enlarge the hole ("grind" meaning to use the side of the wheel, not the edge). Continue to test-fit, find the specific area that is catching, and re-grind as needed until you get a nice tight fit.

At this point the nerve wracking stuff is over with; chill out and drink a beer or something. Next up is cutting the 3/4" aluminum strips (as recommended by the OP) to fit across the 3 pairs of bolts under the extractor (horizontally). We just held the aluminum up under the hood while the extractor was installed and marked the aluminum with sharpie where it grabbed the cross-members sufficiently. Cut to size and drill the necessary holes to accept the bolts. The OP got away with using a 1/4" drill bit, I had to waddle that at quite a bit to get the bolts to slide through easily, aluminum is soft so this was not difficult.

You're done! We used an electric leaf blower to blow out all of the metal shavings from the engine bay, adjusted the 6 mounting bolts for an even fit, closed the hood and gave it a quick polish.

Here is a time lapse video of the whole install, took about 4 hours (since we're newbs), wish I knew how to properly embed this:



P.S. For those of you who want to do this install and are "afraid" of it. This is not actually very difficult, it takes some patience and concentration but in reality it is not as big of a deal as you may believe. I have spent a bit of time wrenching on cars, BUT this is the first work I have ever done with the literal sheet metal of a car! It's all about making the template properly, if you can do this (it is a simple check by fitting it to the bottom of the extractor) you are almost there. Take your time with the rest and you'll be fine! Feel free to PM me any questions too, happy to help detail any of the bits of this install if it makes you feel more comfortable with it. Cheers!
Awesome Video. Glad it worked out. Looks like it came out great
Jerry7297 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 12:48 PM   #335
Jerry7297
 
Jerry7297's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Corpus Christi TX
Posts: 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
How would this work on hoods with the vinyl stripes? I imagine I would possibly need to replace them?

Page 2 1/2 way down are some pics of the vent with stripes. If you tape up your hood real good you should be fine and would not mess up your stripes. If they are aftermarket stripes you may want to cut them 1st lightly with a razor knife before cutting so you dont pull them up with a saw blade. Just a suggestion, If they are factory stripes I would just cut right through them.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=346744&page=2
Jerry7297 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 02:24 PM   #336
Avalnch

 
Avalnch's Avatar
 
Drives: Rally Yellow Camaro+Avalanche
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 851
Does anyone know if the entire 2014 hood assembly with the extractor will bolt right up to a 2010 SS/RS?
__________________
C.A.I., ARH LT, Pypes Cat Back, ZL1 Shifter, Quantum Brake Ducts, JDP Tow Hook
Scorch Yellow Trim Kit, Shark Fin, AAC DRLs+ABLs+SMDs, ZTA Rear Spoiler, R.Y. 1LE Splitter
Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms & differential bushings.
BMR adjustable toe-rods. Pedders ZL1 barz, rear cradle inserts, radius arm & steering rack bushings.
Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace (minus tunnel cross-over piece for SCCA rules)
1LE 3.91 gearzzz. Drive Shaft Shop Road Race Axle Upgrade. TurnOne power steering pump.
Forgeline GA3-R 19x11 + Hoosier R6 315/30R19
426 HP @ 5550 RPM / 427 TQ @ 4700 RPM
Avalnch is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 02:53 PM   #337
Chaxce
V8 if you're straight
 
Chaxce's Avatar
 
Drives: Black 2012 2SS
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Uvalde Tx
Posts: 174
It will but the cowl lines will not line up
__________________
2012 2SS/RS, mods coming soon
Chaxce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 02:54 PM   #338
xc_SS/RS
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: G-burg, MD
Posts: 256
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry7297 View Post
Page 2 1/2 way down are some pics of the vent with stripes. If you tape up your hood real good you should be fine and would not mess up your stripes. If they are aftermarket stripes you may want to cut them 1st lightly with a razor knife before cutting so you dont pull them up with a saw blade. Just a suggestion, If they are factory stripes I would just cut right through them.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=346744&page=2
Ah very good. Yes they're factory stripes but when I get around to doing this I will be sure to tape up really good.

Now time to order the part and summon enough guts to do it lol
__________________
- Ryan
2010 2SS/RS stock for now!
xc_SS/RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2014, 08:18 PM   #339
TECHTURTLE
 
TECHTURTLE's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 54
I searched but couldn't find the answer... Anyone install this with an OEM strut bar installed??
__________________
CAI Cold Air Intake
Kooks Headers w/ High Flow Cats
MTI Racing tune... 419 RWHP 413 Torque
1LE 3.91 Differential
Hotchkis front and rear sways / BMR end links
BMR Trailing Arms and Outer Bushings
Strut Tower Brace
Street Scenes Splitter and Ducts
Katzkin Black/Orange Leather Interior
TECHTURTLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2014, 08:42 PM   #340
chozn4service
Five-O
 
chozn4service's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 2SSRS RJT
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: +34° 55' 19.15", -117° 53' 22.43"
Posts: 2,418
I have it with the OEM strut bar and no issue. The 2014 hood will work however the lines on the 2014 hood do not line up with 2010-2013 bumper cover. You could do it but there will be gaps where those lines meet. We took a car from a dealership and did a good swap and it worked as far as install but didn't match up. Just enough for the OCD in this SOB to kick in and say hell to the naw!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3832170 : Praise The Lowered!
Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Vararam intake, Solo HFC, VMax Ported TB, VMax "Black Ice" manifold insulator, Trifecta Tune, Mike Norris Catch Can, DRL Harness, Heritage grill, Razzi GFX, NLP Spoiler, MPD1 Spoiler and more!
chozn4service is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2014, 10:34 PM   #341
hammdo

 
hammdo's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 2SS L99
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 826
I did the hex vents with the Strut bar -- no issue -- as long as you tell them you have the bar (and you want the 'drip' pans)

-Don
hammdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2014, 12:59 PM   #342
NotYetLegend
 
NotYetLegend's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 268
Quote:
Originally Posted by TECHTURTLE View Post
I searched but couldn't find the answer... Anyone install this with an OEM strut bar installed??
Yes this works fine. I have the OEM strut bat and had no issues. Its interesting to see but once you cut the hole in the hood it surprises you just how low the engine and even strut bar are under there. Tons of supercharger room I suppose.
__________________
"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen)
NotYetLegend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2014, 01:04 PM   #343
TECHTURTLE
 
TECHTURTLE's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 54
Sweet thanks... Ordered mine last night.
__________________
CAI Cold Air Intake
Kooks Headers w/ High Flow Cats
MTI Racing tune... 419 RWHP 413 Torque
1LE 3.91 Differential
Hotchkis front and rear sways / BMR end links
BMR Trailing Arms and Outer Bushings
Strut Tower Brace
Street Scenes Splitter and Ducts
Katzkin Black/Orange Leather Interior
TECHTURTLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2014, 02:07 AM   #344
crc91

 
crc91's Avatar
 
Drives: '14 1LS
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Mandeville
Posts: 813
Glad everyone is enjoying their vent! I can't wait to do mine! I'm gunna have lethal racing do an apr splitter and z/28 spoiler with wickerbill and a mgw shift kit while it's in there! Should look and shift like a totally different car when I'm done! For those that have done the vent AND water tray is the tray easily removable? And can you actually see the vent working at stop lights?
crc91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2014, 05:47 AM   #345
hammdo

 
hammdo's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 2SS L99
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 826
For mine (hex vents) -- yes, the vents work to remove heat -- my drip pans are bolted on so you can remove them easily -- the 'one piece' not sure

-Don
hammdo is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.