Alignment?

[backtotintops]

After cording my front left I finally went for a "competition" alignment today at a pcar shop with a nice new hunter machine with the cameras. I gave them the specs from the Z/28 OM.

This is what they gave me. They said it won't go past -2 camber but based on my track driving I should go to that. Since I drive this car way more on the roads is why I'm hesitant to push it all the way to -2. What are you folks running?

tia

[Skylane765]

I just run full - camber. It's easy, just mark stock and push the adjustment inboard till it stops on the shock. No need to take to the shop to do it, just use a stop bolt and lock nut to know what to put it back to stock. No need to use that fancy alignment machine. The car at full - camber is all you can do to keep from wearing the outside of the tires off. It changes the toe very little in the front when going full - camber.

I just change to - negative camber when I put the track tires on, it's very easy and return to stock when I put the street tires on.

Making sure stock is correct is far better than the competition alignment.

[brt3]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

...This is what they gave me. They said it won't go past -2 camber but based on my track driving I should go to that. Since I drive this car way more on the roads is why I'm hesitant to push it all the way to -2. What are you folks running?

Here's what I my shop did, before my first track outing back in June:

[Skylane765]

Just move the front to full - camber, you do not need any machine to do it and all you need is a 10mm bolt and two nuts to make a stop bolt to return to stock. I do not mess with the rear.

[White_SS/RS]

Here's one way of thinking about it. You say you don't want to run full camber because you drive it on the street. Which is understandable, you don't want funky wear but, you already corded the tire, so I guess it didn't help in the long run anyway. Max it out

[Skylane765]

Just adjust it each time you track the car like I do. It is very easy to do and easy to put back to stock. Just look at the Z28R they are at least -2 or more. Do not drive on the street -2 just put back to stock with the stop bolt you set before you went full - I think it is a 8 mm bolt to use. I will make a video so you can see how easy.

I am going to the track Sunday so Saturday I will change tires and put at full - I will take picks of how I do it.

[Moreno1]

BTTT,

thought I'd share this thread :http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370982

My camber plates will allow for up to -3.5 degrees of camber. Designed to be extremely easy to adjust.

As an example, they will allow you to quickly go from -1.5 degrees camber to -3 degrees before you hit the track, without having to take the wheel off. After you are done running the track, with a jack, you could easily adjust back to -1.5 for the drive home.

[Zfatuated]

Originally Posted by Skylane765

Just adjust it each time you track the car like I do. It is very easy to do and easy to put back to stock. Just look at the Z28R they are at least -2 or more. Do not drive on the street -2 just put back to stock with the stop bolt you set before you went full - I think it is a 8 mm bolt to use. I will make a video so you can see how easy.

I am going to the track Sunday so Saturday I will change tires and put at full - I will take picks of how I do it.

Originally Posted by Justin Moreno

BTTT,

thought I'd share this thread :http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370982

My camber plates will allow for up to -3.5 degrees of camber. Designed to be extremely easy to adjust.

As an example, they will allow you to quickly go from -1.5 degrees camber to -3 degrees before you hit the track, without having to take the wheel off. After you are done running the track, with a jack, you could easily adjust back to -1.5 for the drive home.

Exactly what effect does this quick at-the-track camber adjustment have on toe?

[backtotintops]

thanks for the replies...both manually adjusting and the adjustable plate look interesting but I too would like to know how this affects the overall geometry.

conceptually they do solve my problem though.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by Zfatuated

Exactly what effect does this quick at-the-track camber adjustment have on toe?

Originally Posted by backtotintops

thanks for the replies...both manually adjusting and the adjustable plate look interesting but I too would like to know how this affects the overall geometry.

conceptually they do solve my problem though.

Because of caster, any addition of negative camber will increase toe out slightly. IF you had ZERO caster (impossible) than toe would be unaffected by camber changes.

The trade off with toe is straight line stability for steering response.

Toe out will improve steering response at the expense of some straight line stability. You will have to pay attention a bit more during the straights, but you are at the road course, I would hope you are paying attention

after track, set the plate back to stock position for that factory alignment.

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by Justin Moreno

BTTT,

thought I'd share this thread :http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370982

My camber plates will allow for up to -3.5 degrees of camber. Designed to be extremely easy to adjust.

As an example, they will allow you to quickly go from -1.5 degrees camber to -3 degrees before you hit the track, without having to take the wheel off. After you are done running the track, with a jack, you could easily adjust back to -1.5 for the drive home.

Justin, I need these ASAP. Any idea on when they will be availible?

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

thanks for the replies...both manually adjusting and the adjustable plate look interesting but I too would like to know how this affects the overall geometry.

conceptually they do solve my problem though.

Changing camber does effect toe, but not that much if going from stock to -2. Now going to -3 I would think that will not be much to worry about.

[sho928]

Only the top of the strut is being moved to change static camber and redefine the camber arc during dynamic conditions.

The lower control stays fixed relative to car centerline resulting in no toe change as long as the tie rod end is attached to hub in the same plane of the lower strut attachment point the caster related toe changes will not be measurable for 1-degree change of camber

It is a concern however at the rear suspension since camber is adjusted via eccentrics at the lower control arm pick up point, thus changing the distance of the hub relative to car centerline requiring a corresponding adjustment of tie rod end sleeve.

Rear alignment has to be accurate (not always the case from the factory) in order to keep stability in high speed corners.

There have been cases of past magazine testing that concluded certain sports cars to be squirrelly on a race track, only for Manufacturer to find after the fact the rear alignment was off

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by Justin Moreno

Because of caster, any addition of negative camber will increase toe out slightly. IF you had ZERO caster (impossible) than toe would be unaffected by camber changes.

The trade off with toe is straight line stability for steering response.

Toe out will improve steering response at the expense of some straight line stability. You will have to pay attention a bit more during the straights, but you are at the road course, I would hope you are paying attention

after track, set the plate back to stock position for that factory alignment.

Even with even caster changing thee camber moves the tow out a bit, the reason is as the spindle goes in at the top, it make a little more tow out because the pivot point for camber is not in line with the tie rod. but not by much.