Another question on diff bushing replacement - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

EM1/SS · 03-15-2012, 07:55 PM

I purchased the cinci tool to remove the diff bushings. The first one came out very easy, but the second one looks like it is ****ed a little and will not move anymore. I looked at the back side of the bushing and one side is flush and the other is in the housing about 1/8 ". I called cinci speed and they said try a little heat. I did that but it's not moving. I was going to try and put a thin washer under the tool to try to get it straight. Any one have this problem and a solution?

caverman · 03-15-2012, 11:11 PM

Have any pics to show us? Might help make some more suggestions.

I will say that one of mine was a SUPER PITA!!! We actually bent the bolt used to pull it through. It definatley took heat to do mine. It was a two person thing. Mike was using in the tool (similar to cinci's) and had to keep applying the heat with a mini handheld torch. I kept the heat moving up and down on the outside of the housing right where the bushing was. It eventually came out but gave us alot of grief. Mike said he never had that issue with any before and he had done plenty before.

Wish I would've taken a picture of the bent bolt we were so worn out by the time we got it done I forgot to.

B-Rex · 03-15-2012, 11:56 PM

I used a hammer and a chisel to cut/smash/bend the metal liner on the outside of the bushing and get it to fold up and fall out after sawzalling the middle rubber part out. Probably could have used heat or a fancy tool, but (during the ring and pinion replacement process) by the time I was doing the bushings i needed to take some frustration out on something lol.

More of a thought than anything, just be careful not to mar the diff housing itself up.

BOSS_HOSS · 03-15-2012, 11:59 PM

I had this same problem...heat heat heat...9/10 when you eventually get it out you'll see rust on the steel sleeve...

EM1/SS · 03-16-2012, 06:37 PM

Well I got it about 1/4" out and then the all thread on the cinci tool broke at the point where the nut is welded on. I got a drill in there to start to core it out. I'll try to get my sawzall in there tomorrow.

JusticePete · 03-17-2012, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B-Rex

I used a hammer and a chisel to cut/smash/bend the metal liner on the outside of the bushing and get it to fold up and fall out after sawzalling the middle rubber part out. Probably could have used heat or a fancy tool, but (during the ring and pinion replacement process) by the time I was doing the bushings i needed to take some frustration out on something lol.

More of a thought than anything, just be careful not to mar the diff housing itself up.

Folding in the 'tail' of the steel jacketed OE bushes will allow a tool like the one from Cincy Speed to work. Lots of lube on the threads and the surfaces under load help too.

EM1/SS · 03-17-2012, 07:53 PM

I got the bushing out this morning. It looked like it was just starting to straighten out when the all thread snapped.

03-15-2012, 07:55 PM	#1
EM1/SS Drives: 11 2SS/RS M6 vert Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: NSB, FL Posts: 705	Another question on diff bushing replacement I purchased the cinci tool to remove the diff bushings. The first one came out very easy, but the second one looks like it is ****ed a little and will not move anymore. I looked at the back side of the bushing and one side is flush and the other is in the housing about 1/8 ". I called cinci speed and they said try a little heat. I did that but it's not moving. I was going to try and put a thin washer under the tool to try to get it straight. Any one have this problem and a solution? __________________ LSA supercharger, Borla S-Type cat back, BMR/ Pedders Suspension, Kooks stepped LT's, GM 3.91, and RDP tune.

03-15-2012, 11:11 PM	#2
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	Have any pics to show us? Might help make some more suggestions. I will say that one of mine was a SUPER PITA!!! We actually bent the bolt used to pull it through. It definatley took heat to do mine. It was a two person thing. Mike was using in the tool (similar to cinci's) and had to keep applying the heat with a mini handheld torch. I kept the heat moving up and down on the outside of the housing right where the bushing was. It eventually came out but gave us alot of grief. Mike said he never had that issue with any before and he had done plenty before. Wish I would've taken a picture of the bent bolt we were so worn out by the time we got it done I forgot to. __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

03-15-2012, 11:56 PM	#3
B-Rex Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 465 View My Garage	I used a hammer and a chisel to cut/smash/bend the metal liner on the outside of the bushing and get it to fold up and fall out after sawzalling the middle rubber part out. Probably could have used heat or a fancy tool, but (during the ring and pinion replacement process) by the time I was doing the bushings i needed to take some frustration out on something lol. More of a thought than anything, just be careful not to mar the diff housing itself up. __________________ B-Rex 2011 2SS/RS LS3 Hurst, LG, C.A.I., Flowmaster, Pfadt, Pedders, U.S. Gear/Axle Tech, LPW, SJM, Nitto, Nitrous Outlet, ZEX

03-15-2012, 11:59 PM	#4
BOSS_HOSS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Petawawa, ON Posts: 151	I had this same problem...heat heat heat...9/10 when you eventually get it out you'll see rust on the steel sleeve... __________________ 2010 2SS/RS 1 7/8" Long Tube American Racing Headers w/high flow cats, Borla S-Type Catback Exhaust, Roto-Fab CAI, VMAX Ported Throttle Body, MGW Shifter, JRE 445 Street Cam Package tuned via SCT, Pedders Street 1 Kit.

03-16-2012, 06:37 PM	#5
EM1/SS Drives: 11 2SS/RS M6 vert Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: NSB, FL Posts: 705	Well I got it about 1/4" out and then the all thread on the cinci tool broke at the point where the nut is welded on. I got a drill in there to start to core it out. I'll try to get my sawzall in there tomorrow. __________________ LSA supercharger, Borla S-Type cat back, BMR/ Pedders Suspension, Kooks stepped LT's, GM 3.91, and RDP tune.

03-17-2012, 07:53 PM	#7
EM1/SS Drives: 11 2SS/RS M6 vert Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: NSB, FL Posts: 705	I got the bushing out this morning. It looked like it was just starting to straighten out when the all thread snapped. __________________ LSA supercharger, Borla S-Type cat back, BMR/ Pedders Suspension, Kooks stepped LT's, GM 3.91, and RDP tune.

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