Hard shifting m6 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

SannerRacing · 04-09-2014, 10:55 PM

Just wondering if anyone else has had the carbon fiber syncros installed and had good results. Mine shifted really notchy before and still dose after. I was under the impression that it would shift like butter after they where installed,we'll guess what still shifts hard. Granted it seemed like it wasn't even close to grinding or miss shifting but still goes into gear like a Mac truck. Will really know once I get back on the track ,hard to tell street from the strip. That being said it does have the factory Hurst shifter in it but most of the shifters look the same. iDK My local shop said to put a 1LE shifter in it and that would fix it. Any thoughts?

Hannibal · 04-10-2014, 07:42 AM

Drain the trans and add 4 quarts of Redline D4 ATF. You will instantly notice a difference.

Stingr69 · 04-10-2014, 10:15 AM

The 1LE shifter will not improve anything. I have had stock, MGW and GM Hurst on my car.

The problems can be helped somewhat by a fluid change away from the GM fluid. The other poster suggested changing to (4) quarts of Redline D4 and that is something I would look at trying if I were in your shoes. Easy and cheap.

SannerRacing · 04-10-2014, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stingr69

The 1LE shifter will not improve anything. I have had stock, MGW and GM Hurst on my car.

The problems can be helped somewhat by a fluid change away from the GM fluid. The other poster suggested changing to (4) quarts of Redline D4 and that is something I would look at trying if I were in your shoes. Easy and cheap.

Thanks but I was running D4 in it before the carbon fiber syncros and It didn't make any diff still super notchy. And my tranny guy that installed the new syncros said to use synchromesh only. Looks like water lol IdK just frustrated!

BMR Sales · 04-11-2014, 10:16 AM

I've had the same problems in my personal car, early 2010 SS M6. Notchy, hard shifting, grinds a bit going into 2nd and 3rd (on the track and street). In an effort to resolve this, I have installed the Hurst Aftermarket Shifter, Bronze Bushing replacement for the shifter, Redline D4 ATF, Ideal Garage "IdealG" Modified Clutch Master Cylinder, Separate Clutch reservoir, and the Tick Performance Steel-Braided Clutch line. After all that....still does it!!! I was told the syncros are the problem.....not really happy to hear that you are still having problems after changing yours!!! Crap!!!

I understand that the aftermarket shifter and bronze bushings are going to make the shifts a bit "notchy", and I'm okay with that. But the grinding going into 2nd and 3rd is driving me nuts!!!

Spartan01 · 04-11-2014, 10:27 AM

the factory hurst shifter and the after market Hurst are different.
Factory= 22% reduction, aftermarket= 44%
Bowler and Hurst are basically the same,
Barton is very similar to these two as well,
MGW and TWM offer complete shifter housing replacement, baoth at around $400 each, and these are supposed to be very smooth with excellent throw reduction.

I personally have the Barton, it is very mechanical and notchy but that is exactly how I like it.
I can also attest that the JDP Separate Clutch Fluid Reservoir is a worthwhile investment and easy mod to install.

SannerRacing · 04-11-2014, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

I've had the same problems in my personal car, early 2010 SS M6. Notchy, hard shifting, grinds a bit going into 2nd and 3rd (on the track and street). In an effort to resolve this, I have installed the Hurst Aftermarket Shifter, Bronze Bushing replacement for the shifter, Redline D4 ATF, Ideal Garage "IdealG" Modified Clutch Master Cylinder, Separate Clutch reservoir, and the Tick Performance Steel-Braided Clutch line. After all that....still does it!!! I was told the syncros are the problem.....not really happy to hear that you are still having problems after changing yours!!! Crap!!!

I understand that the aftermarket shifter and bronze bushings are going to make the shifts a bit "notchy", and I'm okay with that. But the grinding going into 2nd and 3rd is driving me nuts!!!

I'm going to bleed the the system one more time and go run it hard only have about an half hr driving it. It didn't grind into 3rd or any other gear but then again I had my 5year old with me and was taking it easy. So I'll go pound on it today and see ,but my big problem was third at the drags hard to duplicate that on the street. Going to the track next sat for the real test. But I shouldn't have to shove it in to gear it literally wears me out just driving on the street. I do have the separate resivoir and a twin disc McLeod clutch. I'll keep you posted.

SannerRacing · 04-19-2014, 10:43 PM

Ok had a great day at the track once the tranny warmed up didn't miss one shift so the carbon fiber syncros did help a lot.

TornadoSS · 04-20-2014, 12:05 PM

New pb too! Congrats bro!

BMR Sales · 04-21-2014, 03:56 PM

Okay Great! Good-to-know......guess I'll be looking at that next then!

04-09-2014, 10:55 PM	#1
SannerRacing Drives: 2010 1SS RS IOM Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Inland Empire Posts: 251 View My Garage	Hard shifting m6 Just wondering if anyone else has had the carbon fiber syncros installed and had good results. Mine shifted really notchy before and still dose after. I was under the impression that it would shift like butter after they where installed,we'll guess what still shifts hard. Granted it seemed like it wasn't even close to grinding or miss shifting but still goes into gear like a Mac truck. Will really know once I get back on the track ,hard to tell street from the strip. That being said it does have the factory Hurst shifter in it but most of the shifters look the same. iDK My local shop said to put a 1LE shifter in it and that would fix it. Any thoughts? __________________ Forged LS3 416ci, Maggie TVS2300 @ 13lbs boost, McCleod twin disc clutch, GForce 1320 nine-inch 389 gear ratio, Hurst line-lock, 750 whp 700 wtq

04-11-2014, 10:27 AM	#6
Spartan01 Drives: Evil Eva, 2010 2SS LS3 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Falls Church, Virginia Posts: 3,600	the factory hurst shifter and the after market Hurst are different. Factory= 22% reduction, aftermarket= 44% Bowler and Hurst are basically the same, Barton is very similar to these two as well, MGW and TWM offer complete shifter housing replacement, baoth at around $400 each, and these are supposed to be very smooth with excellent throw reduction. I personally have the Barton, it is very mechanical and notchy but that is exactly how I like it. I can also attest that the JDP Separate Clutch Fluid Reservoir is a worthwhile investment and easy mod to install. __________________ "You simply cannot trust quotes found on the internet." -Abraham Lincoln

04-19-2014, 10:43 PM	#8
SannerRacing Drives: 2010 1SS RS IOM Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Inland Empire Posts: 251 View My Garage	Ok had a great day at the track once the tranny warmed up didn't miss one shift so the carbon fiber syncros did help a lot. __________________ Forged LS3 416ci, Maggie TVS2300 @ 13lbs boost, McCleod twin disc clutch, GForce 1320 nine-inch 389 gear ratio, Hurst line-lock, 750 whp 700 wtq

04-20-2014, 12:05 PM	#9
TornadoSS WICKDSS Drives: 2011 1SS/RS IOM LS3 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wichita, Kansas Posts: 1,111 View My Garage	New pb too! Congrats bro! __________________ 2011 IOM SS/RS, M6. Look up our all generation Camaro club website at Heartland Camaros Gforce Engineering Drivetrain, ECS 1500 Supercharger, TSP Cam, Alky Controls Meth single nozzle. 91 octane, 698 RWHP 625 rwtq. 4200#+, Tuned by Justin "Justune" Kalwei 11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.

04-10-2014, 07:42 AM	#2
Hannibal Drives: Camaro SS & ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Southeast USA Posts: 527	Drain the trans and add 4 quarts of Redline D4 ATF. You will instantly notice a difference.

04-10-2014, 10:15 AM	#3
Stingr69 '69 Owned Since '79 Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: LR AR Posts: 1,847 View My Garage	The 1LE shifter will not improve anything. I have had stock, MGW and GM Hurst on my car. The problems can be helped somewhat by a fluid change away from the GM fluid. The other poster suggested changing to (4) quarts of Redline D4 and that is something I would look at trying if I were in your shoes. Easy and cheap.

04-11-2014, 10:16 AM	#5
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	I've had the same problems in my personal car, early 2010 SS M6. Notchy, hard shifting, grinds a bit going into 2nd and 3rd (on the track and street). In an effort to resolve this, I have installed the Hurst Aftermarket Shifter, Bronze Bushing replacement for the shifter, Redline D4 ATF, Ideal Garage "IdealG" Modified Clutch Master Cylinder, Separate Clutch reservoir, and the Tick Performance Steel-Braided Clutch line. After all that....still does it!!! I was told the syncros are the problem.....not really happy to hear that you are still having problems after changing yours!!! Crap!!! I understand that the aftermarket shifter and bronze bushings are going to make the shifts a bit "notchy", and I'm okay with that. But the grinding going into 2nd and 3rd is driving me nuts!!!

04-21-2014, 03:56 PM	#10
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	Okay Great! Good-to-know......guess I'll be looking at that next then!