Help with Clutch bleed issue

[260racin]

I installed a new clutch and tick remote bleeder and stainless line along with a new slave. When we tried to bleed with the pump and hold method pedal is staying on the floor. It will sometimes have pressure and then back to pedal only having pressure at the halfway point. We think there is still air in the system but no matter what we do we can't get it out.. What are we doing wrong? Any tips are much appreciated

[376LS3]

Are you using a pressure system to add fluid at the same time?

[tw78911sc]

Normal, you need to pull the pedal up by hand for the first few pumps. You cannot pressurize with a remote reservoir the clutch. I get my wife to pump pedal, takes about 15 cycles, 4 oz of fluid to clean it all out. Nice that your Tick remote bleeder end can be located next to your reservoir to ensure it is filled during the process.

[376LS3]

^^ Ya thats what I was getting at. You have to have one person in the car working the pedal by hand and one bleeding the line and monitoring the reservoir. Itll take awhile to get all the air out, especially with the 5ft bleed line. Make sure you crack the bleeder when the clutch is pressed in.

[260racin]

I have a motive pressure bleeder but not the correct end for the remote resovior... We went thru a quart already trying to get air out I guess well keep pumping...will the pedal be normal the while stroke every time when it is properly bled?

[keith.wilkinson.10]

Originally Posted by 260racin

I have a motive pressure bleeder but not the correct end for the remote resovior... We went thru a quart already trying to get air out I guess well keep pumping...will the pedal be normal the while stroke every time when it is properly bled?

Oh man I forgot about that any idea what part we need for motive to connect to the gto resivour?

[tw78911sc]

Already tried it, it will not work. You have to cycle the pedal to get the fluid to move. I bought an extra cap, sealed it off since the OEM has built in air gap so there is no vacuum, does not work. Get another person to cycle the pedal 10x and your done.

Originally Posted by keith.wilkinson.10

Oh man I forgot about that any idea what part we need for motive to connect to the gto resivour?

[keith.wilkinson.10]

Maybe you could use it to keep the resivour full at least. And with the tick speedbleeder it would be so fast and easy all by yourself.

[White_SS/RS]

Are you guys closing the bleeder before bringing the pedal back up?

[CamaroCracka]

I do because I have trust issues, but the bleeder line I have is supposed to have a check valve in it. I also connect the bleeder to a bottle I use for single person brake bleeding so if it pulls back a little, it's pulling back fluid.

[260racin]

I finally figured the problem out. After a lot of scratching my head I was sitting in the car pumping the pedal while my brother was looking for a leak somewhere and the separate clutch resovior was making a noise when the clutch was pushed in and released.. we finally realized that the cap and/or cap and resovior were not sealing properly. I called gen5 DIY and they were extremely helpful and are mailing me a new one.

[IDEALG]

when bleeding the manual way by pumping the clutch pedal with your foot i use a bungee cord hooked to the clutch pedal to make it easier to pull the clutch back up, just keep a little pressure on the bungee cord so it doesn't fall off.

just a tip for next time.

[mySSt]

After manually bleeding my '11 SS M6 clutch system (all the way thru the slave cylinder), I now know I need to install the Tick speed bleeder. Let me ask a related question about clutch bleeding:

A question for those who have bled the slave cylinder with the stock bleeder on the upper side of the bell housing - Did you find any brake fluid dripping out of the bottom of your bell housing (4 ports on the passenger side) after bleeding the system? As others have posted, the bleeder originally was just over hand tight and all I loosened the bleeder was about 45 degrees CCW after each time we depressed the clutch pedal. Looks like the brake fluid leaked a bit from the threaded end of the bleeder each time I loosened the bleeder? I had a tight fit with a drain hose on the bleed valve and the bleeder shaft wasn't wet after I removed the hose and 8mm wrench, so I don't think that was the source of the leaking fluid. I was able to 'mop up' the small amount of fluid in the bottom of the bell housing thru the 4 small ports. Anybody else have this happen?

[Stingr69]

Originally Posted by mySSt

After manually bleeding my '11 SS M6 clutch system (all the way thru the slave cylinder), I now know I need to install the Tick speed bleeder. Let me ask a related question about clutch bleeding:

A question for those who have bled the slave cylinder with the stock bleeder on the upper side of the bell housing - Did you find any brake fluid dripping out of the bottom of your bell housing (4 ports on the passenger side) after bleeding the system? As others have posted, the bleeder originally was just over hand tight and all I loosened the bleeder was about 45 degrees CCW after each time we depressed the clutch pedal. Looks like the brake fluid leaked a bit from the threaded end of the bleeder each time I loosened the bleeder? I had a tight fit with a drain hose on the bleed valve and the bleeder shaft wasn't wet after I removed the hose and 8mm wrench, so I don't think that was the source of the leaking fluid. I was able to 'mop up' the small amount of fluid in the bottom of the bell housing thru the 4 small ports. Anybody else have this happen?

Sounds like you were also loosening the extension down at the slave? It could leak out of that and drip down. Just a thought.