05-08-2011, 08:44 AM | #1 |
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GTO Clutch Reservoir Install
So many of you manual tranny guys may not be aware of this "issue". The Camaro having been my first hydraulic clutch I wanted to do everything in my power to prevent any sort of future problems or premature failure. I didn't know much about the hydraulic clutch system, but as soon as I started reading more and more posts concerning possible damage due to clutch dust inside the fluid system I wanted to nip the cause in the bud. This is the article that absolutely sold me on the necessity. I've included a few pics of the finished project, the first is @2SSRS's location the others are of my car with the reservoir mounted the same as @flht99b.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html I do not want ANY of the credit for this, I am simply posting some good info from Camaro5 members @flht99b and @2SSRS. Thanks, guys for your insight and help concerning parts. You will need a GTO clutch reservoir, which is a GM part but very hard to acquire by most (believe me, I tried). I got mine from @2SSRS, and as far as I know he has quite a few on hand at any given time. Please chime in if I'm mistaken . I got my EPDM hose and EPDM cap, as well as the hardware from @flht99b. Thanks to both of you! As far as I know, I took the last of @flht99b's spare hardware so you probably won't have the luxury I did and have to do your own legwork. You'll need (2) bolts (self tapping) or a set of blind nuts, an EPDM hose (17") and an EPDM cap. Tools and supplies you’ll need are regular and needle nose pliers (or vise grips) to get the factory clamps off the stock hose that runs from the clutch master/slave cylinder to the brake master cylinder reservoir. The firewall end will be a PITA, I used vise grips. You will re-use these clamps on the new hose, one at the new GTO clutch reservoir end, the other at firewall. You’ll need a right angle drill and a ¼” drill bit for the finish size holes ( 2 ) that you will drill in the factory vertical bracket that currently holds the positive battery cable. I started with an 1/8” pilot hole and then finished both holes with the ¼” drill bit. The mounting hardware with the shaft on it goes in from the front of the car side of the bracket that you drilled the holes in. In other words, the hardware parts I sent with the shaft on it goes in so that the screws that screw in are on the GTO reservoir side. From the pictures I posted on the forum (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=34085&page=10 ) beginning with post # 237 you can see I made a template from sticky back paper by tracing the back of the GTO reservoir and put it on the positive battery cable mounting bracket perpendicular to the outer edge of the bracket so I could accurately locate the 2 mounting holes ( center punched so the 1/8” pilot hole would not wander ). @flht99b I used a dremel to make the pilot holes, it didn't have much torque so it took patience. Then I finagled a small cordless drill in there to enlarge the holes to1/4". To remove the positive battery cable from the bracket, you undo the 3 snaps at the top of the red cover so it comes off. Then you squeeze the black part of the plastic holder, the side closest to the firewall and pull up and the battery cable with the black plastic mount/cover slides up and off the metal bracket. I pushed it aside and ensured it was kept away from all metal for safety. Once the GTO reservoir is installed, just slide the positive battery cable and it’s black holder back onto the bracket and snap the top red cover back on. You’ll need DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, your choice. Factory is DOT3. You’ll need some method ( a motorcycle brake/fork syringe with a small hose on the end works best ) to remove the existing brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir. They can be found at motorcycle shops and I understand Wal-Mart carries them in the motorcycle section of the store. You’ll need lots of rags, fender covers, paper, whatever to ensure brake fluid does not come in contact with any painted finish. You can get 99% of the existing brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir with the syringe very easily, there will be only a few drops of fluid left in the hose you are replacing so you can minimize the spillage of brake fluid to almost zero. I had a single drop hit the sloped part of the shock tower and it ran, instantly wiped it up but there is still a noticeable "stain". Brake fluid eats paint like a fat kid eats cake! Be sure NOT to pump the brake pedal for any reason while you have the brake fluid removed from the brake reservoir, you could possibly introduce air into the system and then would have to bleed the master cylinder and/or entire brake system. Once you’ve finished the installation, just top off the brake master cylinder reservoir and fill the new GTO clutch reservoir. Pump the clutch pedal several times, add fluid as necessary and you are good to go. There is no need to bleed the clutch or brake master cylinder unless you intend to flush all the fluid out of them. There is no relocation of the battery cable with the mounting position and method I choose. If you are reasonably careful measuring and drilling the 2 reservoir mounting holes, the clutch reservoir will be dead level in both planes. Again, much of this is taken from information given to me by @flht99b and @2SSRS, so GIVE CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE! I operated on advice given to me by them, and they deserve any thanks you might have . All I have done is put it into a single DIY post. Hope this helps!
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05-08-2011, 09:49 AM | #2 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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Great write up
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05-08-2011, 10:03 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,719
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Nicely done.
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05-08-2011, 06:34 PM | #4 |
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Here is a picture of my install location and a write up I sent to those that are interested in the parts I used and the method / location of mounting the reservoir. You'll notice the 2 white spacers that go with the hardware I used to move the reservoir away from the battery cable 1/2" and make it easier to pour fluid into the reservoir.
If you decide to mount the GTO reservoir as I did, here are some installation tips / instructions. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. No matter how you decide to go about this, separating the clutch and brake reservoirs is one of the best mods you can do to your car. Tools and supplies you’ll need are regular and needle nose pliers to get the factory clamps off the stock hose that runs from the clutch master/slave cylinder to the brake master cylinder reservoir. The clamp at the firewall ( clutch master cylinder ) can be a bit of a challenge but with patience it can be slid back on the hose. I used a medium sized needle nose pliers and plenty of light ( 53 year old eyes ) to release this clamp. You will re-use these clamps on the new hose, one at the new GTO clutch reservoir end, the other at the clutch master/slave cylinder end on the firewall. You’ll need a right angle drill and a ¼” drill bit for the finish size holes ( 2 ) that you will drill in the factory vertical bracket that currently holds the positive battery cable. I started with an 1/8” pilot hole and then finished both holes with the ¼” drill bit. The mounting hardware with the shaft on it goes in from the front of the car side of the bracket that you drilled the holes in. In other words, the hardware parts I used with the shaft on it goes in so that the screws that screw in are on the GTO reservoir side. From the pictures I posted on the forum (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=34085&page=10 ) beginning with post # 237 you can see I made a template from sticky back paper by tracing the back of the GTO reservoir and put it on the positive battery cable mounting bracket perpendicular to the outer edge of the bracket so I could accurately locate the 2 mounting holes ( center punched so the 1/8” pilot hole would not wander ). To temporarily remove the positive battery cable from the bracket, you undo the 3 snaps at the top ( red ) so the top part of the red cover comes off. Then you squeeze the black part of the plastic holder, squeeze the side closest to the firewall and pull up and the battery cable with the black plastic mount/cover slides up and off the metal bracket. I pushed it aside and wrapped it in a thick rag for safety. Once the GTO reservoir is installed, just slide the positive battery cable and it’s black holder back onto the bracket and snap the top red cover back on. You’ll need DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, your choice. Factory is DOT3. I’ve upgraded both my brakes and clutch hydraulic systems to ATE Super Blue Racing DOT4 brake fluid for its higher boiling point. I have run 1 Autocross and 2 road courses with my car so I felt the higher boiling point of DOT4 was desirable. You’ll need Phillips and/or flat head screw driver, the hardware I supply from Ace Hardware takes either type of screwdriver, you’ll use a screw driver at both ends of the mounting hardware. Once you see the hardware you’ll see what I mean. I also used a touch of blue Locktite on the mounting hardware for good measure. You’ll need some method ( a motorcycle brake/fork syringe with a small hose on the end works best ) to remove the existing brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir. They can be found at motorcycle shops and I understand Wal-Mart carries them in the motorcycle section of the store. You’ll need lots of rags, fender covers, paper, whatever to ensure brake fluid does not come in contact with any painted finish. You can get 99% of the existing brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir with the syringe very easily, there will be only a few drops of fluid left in the hose you are replacing so you can minimize the spillage of brake fluid to almost zero. Be sure NOT to pump the BRAKE pedal for any reason while you have the brake fluid removed from the brake reservoir, you could possibly introduce air into the system and then would have to bleed the master cylinder and/or entire brake system. Once you’ve finished the installation, just top off the brake master cylinder reservoir and fill the new GTO clutch reservoir. Pump the clutch pedal several times, add fluid as necessary and you are good to go. There is no need to bleed the clutch or brake master cylinder unless you intend to flush all the fluid out of them. There is no relocation of the battery cable with the mounting position and method I choose. If you are reasonably careful measuring and drilling the 2 reservoir mounting holes, the clutch reservoir will be dead level in both planes. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. It’s really easy, just takes a bit of time and care. I spent weeks thinking about where and how I wanted to mount the reservoir ( wanted it to look OEM if possible ) and then more time tracking down the EPDM cap, EPDM hose and just the right hardware to mount the reservoir but the whole installation took less than 2 hours. Ed M.
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RJT 2SS/RS, AAM 3.70's, MTI Sway Bars, Shifter & SS brake lines, ZLI calipers, rotors & pads, BMR Trailing & Toe Arms, rear cradle & diff bushes, Pedders XA's, Camber/Toe eccentrics, Radius arm inserts, GTO clutch reservoir, LS9 cam, Comp valve springs, Melling 10296 oil pump, CR5 timing chain, LS6 damper, CAI Cold Air Intake, ARH LT headers w/HF cats, GMPP touring axle back, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Forgeline 20x9.5 & 20x11 DS3 whls, 275/40/20 & 315/35/20 tires, 2011 Convertible spoiler, 1LE front spoiler, Lloyd "SS" Floor Mats, GM Camaro Trunk Mat, wrapped console & Grant steering wheel.
Last edited by flht99b; 05-08-2011 at 06:37 PM. Reason: More information |
06-22-2011, 12:37 AM | #5 |
www.Camaro5store.com
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So you mount the new GTO reservoir. Now you have two reservoirs...the other being the brake.
Exactly what do I do with the lines?? That's what has me confused. Where does the line from the new GTO reservoir go and what about the brake line? I know I disconnect something, but from where and ... well, where do I put the new ones? |
06-22-2011, 04:26 AM | #6 |
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You cap off the brake reservoir where the original hose was originally attached. The hose that went to the brake reservoir originally now goes to the GTO reservoir you just installed. Depending on where you installed the GTO reservoir the original hose may or may not fit.
You need EPDM hose and a EPDM cap, regular "gas or hydraulic hose" you find at the parts store is not compatible with brake fluid. The kit I made up has the cap and longer hose as well as mounting hardware for the GTO reservoir. Ed M.
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RJT 2SS/RS, AAM 3.70's, MTI Sway Bars, Shifter & SS brake lines, ZLI calipers, rotors & pads, BMR Trailing & Toe Arms, rear cradle & diff bushes, Pedders XA's, Camber/Toe eccentrics, Radius arm inserts, GTO clutch reservoir, LS9 cam, Comp valve springs, Melling 10296 oil pump, CR5 timing chain, LS6 damper, CAI Cold Air Intake, ARH LT headers w/HF cats, GMPP touring axle back, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Forgeline 20x9.5 & 20x11 DS3 whls, 275/40/20 & 315/35/20 tires, 2011 Convertible spoiler, 1LE front spoiler, Lloyd "SS" Floor Mats, GM Camaro Trunk Mat, wrapped console & Grant steering wheel.
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06-22-2011, 12:23 PM | #7 |
Drives: 11 IOM 2SS/RS M6 w/Hurst Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 1,269
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I installed this setup this past weekend and it seems a whole lot better!!!! With less than a 1000 miles on my new car I would get the "burned clutch" smell every now and again. Now that I have this installed (I used Super Blue Brake Fluid also) I dont get that smell anymore and the clutch seems more responsive.
It may be just in my head but either way I like the mod!!!! Cheers K |
06-22-2011, 01:08 PM | #8 |
Firefighter/Paramedic
Drives: RJT 2SS/RS M6 LS-3 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Burlington, KY 41005
Posts: 423
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This was the first mod I did too the car over a year ago. Well worth the money for the insurance. Absolutley amazing the difference in color between the brake/clutch reservoirs. You can see the plug in picture 2 on the side of the brake reservoir. I used braided line (only cause I had it in the garage) and dressed up the ends with fake red -AN fittings, again had them from another project car.
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FFPM73
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06-23-2011, 01:09 AM | #9 |
www.Camaro5store.com
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AHHHH!!!!
I got it! Ok. Cap off the line that comes out of the brake fluid reservoir AT the reservoir. Attach that line to the new GTO clutch fluid reservoir (as long as it is long enough). Correct? Sounds right. Question....(since I'm not there looking at my brake fluid reservoir)....there is another line that comes out of the brake fluid reservoir, right? Basically, there are two lines that come out of it ... one for the brakes and one for the clutch? And, do you have any more of the kits for sale and if so, how much are you charging? Send me a pm. |
06-23-2011, 03:50 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Ed M.
__________________
RJT 2SS/RS, AAM 3.70's, MTI Sway Bars, Shifter & SS brake lines, ZLI calipers, rotors & pads, BMR Trailing & Toe Arms, rear cradle & diff bushes, Pedders XA's, Camber/Toe eccentrics, Radius arm inserts, GTO clutch reservoir, LS9 cam, Comp valve springs, Melling 10296 oil pump, CR5 timing chain, LS6 damper, CAI Cold Air Intake, ARH LT headers w/HF cats, GMPP touring axle back, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Forgeline 20x9.5 & 20x11 DS3 whls, 275/40/20 & 315/35/20 tires, 2011 Convertible spoiler, 1LE front spoiler, Lloyd "SS" Floor Mats, GM Camaro Trunk Mat, wrapped console & Grant steering wheel.
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06-23-2011, 04:50 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2011 2SS RS, 1968 ragtop Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,850
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How necessary is this mod on a bonestock SS? My car has about 1400 miles and the fluid still looks like honey. No crap to be found in it yet, but I'm not clutch-dumping nor do I plan to.
Also, this mod will not affect the smell of the clutch burning as posted above. If you ride or slip the clutch it will burn and stink regardless of the additional reservoir.
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1968 Camaro Convertible LS1, T56
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06-23-2011, 05:17 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Ed M.
__________________
RJT 2SS/RS, AAM 3.70's, MTI Sway Bars, Shifter & SS brake lines, ZLI calipers, rotors & pads, BMR Trailing & Toe Arms, rear cradle & diff bushes, Pedders XA's, Camber/Toe eccentrics, Radius arm inserts, GTO clutch reservoir, LS9 cam, Comp valve springs, Melling 10296 oil pump, CR5 timing chain, LS6 damper, CAI Cold Air Intake, ARH LT headers w/HF cats, GMPP touring axle back, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Forgeline 20x9.5 & 20x11 DS3 whls, 275/40/20 & 315/35/20 tires, 2011 Convertible spoiler, 1LE front spoiler, Lloyd "SS" Floor Mats, GM Camaro Trunk Mat, wrapped console & Grant steering wheel.
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06-23-2011, 08:45 AM | #13 | |
Firefighter/Paramedic
Drives: RJT 2SS/RS M6 LS-3 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Burlington, KY 41005
Posts: 423
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Quote:
There is only one clutch line that goes into the side of the master cylinder. Here is another tips, the brake fluid will slowly eat at the rubber boot. So, what I did is fill the outlet of the brake reservoir with a bolt then placed the rubber cap over and I haven't had a problem since. Make sure if you don't have enough hose you get hose that hold up against brake fluid. Depending on where you mount the new clutch reservoir, you should have enough factory hose. Does this help?
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FFPM73
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06-23-2011, 09:26 AM | #14 |
Whipped
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Does anyone have a "kit" that is for purchase?
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Tags |
clutch dust, gto clutch reservoir, install, separate reservoir |
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