[UCD 1LE]

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of upgrading my knowledge/materials/technique for detailing my car. First three washes I used a basic soft-bristle brush I picked up at Walmart along with Eagle One All Wheel and Tire Cleaner (says it is acid-free and was recommended on some other sites I had read originally). However, I am noticing that there are some very fine scratches on the wheels. I am not entirely sure what this is being caused by; I assume I was somehow agitating the brake dust too much with the brush (I do weekly washes). I should specify that these scratches are minor and visible when viewed at from an angle with light on them.

In light of this, I have changed my wheel brushes to Mothers Wheel and Well Long Handled Brush and the EZ Detail Brush Mini (for the hard to reach places and inside of the wheel). I am also looking at getting some Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner since it is also acid-free and biodegradable.

I am following the process recommended by this link:
http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-clean...at-wheels.html

My question is whether or not there are any things I might be missing that would be a simple change to avoid these micro-scratches, or whether these are just part of normal wear and tear.

Also, I plan to apply some Blackfire Crystal Seal to my car in the next couple weeks when my shipment comes in following Glen's method and will be sealing the wheels at that time. Are the wheels on the 1LT 1LE painted/clear-coated? Should I try to clay and polish the wheels before sealing? If so, would Meguiars Ultimate Polish be good to use? Would you recommend hand polishing for a first-timer or using the Mothers PowerBall Mini?

Thanks in advance for all of the help!

[Glen e]

If you want to do the ultimate process for your wheels, you should polish them by hand with the polish you mentioned above, and then wipe on some cquartz nano ceramic coating. Or any coating you like. It's just wipes on and then you hand buff off, follow with reload in same manner.

Other than that, the Crystal seal Will work fine to keep the brake dust from attaching to the wheels.

Then again , in my opinion, you can take this detailing steps too far and why I wrote a simple process in my signature on how to, It's the best balance between cost, application ease, durability, and gloss....... for me.

Now the bad news, the GM wheels are paint, No powdercoat. Therefore, long term, they will microscratch. That's why if you own an SS (and are OCD), the first two things you should do to the car is new powerstop pads, and powder coat the wheels. there's not much you can do about it except good solid maintenance.

[UCD 1LE]

Originally Posted by Glen e

If you want to do the ultimate process for your wheels, you should polish them by hand with the polish you mentioned above, and then wipe on some cquartz nano ceramic coating. Or any coating you like. It's just wipes on and then you hand buff off, follow with reload in same manner.

Other than that, the Crystal seal Will work fine to keep the brake dust from attaching to the wheels.

Then again , in my opinion, you can take this detailing steps too far and why I wrote a simple process in my signature on how to, It's the best balance between cost, application instructions, durability, and gloss for me.

Thanks Glen.

For polishing, is there a specific applicator you would recommend or can I just use a MF applicator pad? Would claying before polishing be necessary?

I think I will try to use the Crystal Seal for now since I already have some on the way and am trying to keep the costs semi-reasonable at this time (will do the Hydro2 in a year when I go through the whole process you outlined again).

Any input on what I could be doing wrong that would be causing the micro-scratching?

[Glen e]

Microscratch just occurs, unless you're using some rough compound or something, it's probably nothing that you've done. These Wheels are very fragile. Some environments are worse than others. Just use a microfiber towel with some finishing polish then lay on the sealant.

But like I said, don't overthink this. I've been known to quickly take a wheel when I'm getting them installed, and spray them down with alcohol, and apply the cquartz right there in the bay. LOL...

[UCD 1LE]

Originally Posted by Glen e

Microscratch just occurs, unless you're using some rough compound or something, it's probably nothing that you've done. These Wheels are very fragile. Some environments are worse than others. Just use a microfiber towel with some finishing polish then lay on the sealant.

But like I said, don't overthink this. I've been known to quickly take a wheel when I'm getting them installed, and spray them down with alcohol, and apply the cquartz right there in the bay. LOL...

Awesome, thank you! The car is a DD and is parked outside right now (apartment unfortunately but I park in a nearby neighborhood on the street and walk). I figure I will try to take the best care of it that I can, but am realistic that I am not subjecting it to the most ideal conditions.

In the future I will probably have them repainted when they start to look very tired. Still looking into the whole powdercoat vs repaint on forged aluminum wheel debate so will read the forums to see if I can find more information on that .

Thanks for the help Glen!

[Nor Cal ZL1]

Clean the wheels with Ironx from car pro first. Then clay and prep for sealant, or coating.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ro-iron-x.html

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1

Clean the wheels with Ironx from car pro first. Then clay and prep for sealant, or coating.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ro-iron-x.html

GM just replaced all four of my painted wheels because the paint was coming off. I'm going to be taking a very cautious approach with the new wheels - no wheel cleaner. Dealer said just soap and water.
My approach:

1. Clay
2. Hand polish (if I can't squeeze in the polisher)
3. IPA
4. CQuartz

[UCD 1LE]

Originally Posted by wrankin

GM just replaced all four of my painted wheels because the paint was coming off. I'm going to be taking a very cautious approach with the new wheels - no wheel cleaner. Dealer said just soap and water.
My approach:

1. Clay
2. Hand polish (if I can't squeeze in the polisher)
3. IPA
4. CQuartz

Do you know what was causing the paint to come off? How bad was it?

[SSport16]

I don't recommend using BF CS on the wheels. I tried it a few times, brake dust attaches to the wheels like a magnet, at least for the first few weeks after applying. I just applied Carpro Hydro2 followed by Reload, works awesome! MF towel and quick wipe of barrels and spokes after each drive, 5 mins to do all 4 wheels.

[AndyUK]

Originally Posted by SSport16

I don't recommend using BF CS on the wheels. I tried it a few times, brake dust attaches to the wheels like a magnet, at least for the first few weeks after applying. I just applied Carpro Hydro2 followed by Reload, works awesome! MF towel and quick wipe of barrels and spokes after each drive, 5 mins to do all 4 wheels.

^ this - hydro 2 on the wheels and you basically just need water and a noodle mitt

[SSport16]

Originally Posted by AndyUK

^ this - hydro 2 on the wheels and you basically just need water and a noodle mitt

Yup, real good stuff...Reload on top of Hydro works even better!

[Nor Cal ZL1]

Ironx is not a wheel cleaner. Anyhow if a wheel cleaner used properly messes up the paint. The paint is on borrowed time.
Cquartz will help immensly, but keep in mind without ironx first there will be imbeded iron particles in the paint.