10-08-2013, 05:30 PM | #365 |
Drives: n/a Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Coral Springs, FL
Posts: 1
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Camaro SS Brake Pads for Track Usage
All good thoughts here...one of the better exchanges of information and opinions that I've seen on an automotive forum; plus, having people willing to help each other is great. SSSoon and I had a good conversation yesterday and at his suggestion, I decided to log in here and "read up".
Having been in this industry for quite some time, I absolutely HATE HATE HATE it when I hear from new customers that someone from another brake pad manufacturer told them "you bedded the pads incorrectly". While there _is_ such as thing as being too aggressive during bedding, it's actually quite difficult to do. In perhaps 95% of the cases, using this "improper bedding" soundtrack is just a cop-out. I'll blame the customer if I see machining marks on a pad which indicate they took power tools to it, or caliper/pad/other brake component modifications someone decided to do to "make something fit"...but this isn't what we're talking about here. Unless someone admits that they taped off their ducts, used the left foot to drag the brake pads while under full acceleration down the straights, never lifting the left foot off the brakes...for multiple laps...it's probably not a bedding issue. On the Camaro SS (see drawings below), Pete @ Pedders is correct in that the XR1/FRONT + XR3/REAR setup works well, and if you have a lot of rear rubber, beyond the OE F/R ratio, then XR2/REAR will utilize this in conjunction with adequate suspension modifications (i.e. anti-lift geometry, rebound adjustments, etc.). For SSSoon, we were working from "where he is now", and based on prior track experience and the compounds he has used to date (OE/Brembo and Hawk DTC-30), I felt that a better progression would be a less aggressive XR2/XR4 setup. With more track experience, there is no doubt that he will eventually progress to an XR1/XR3 setup, but at this point, just as with any vehicle performance modification, I prefer to be "conservatively calculated". I used to participate in HPDE events (many moons ago) with different vehicles, and from my own experience, it made more sense to learn how to carry speed through turns...balance the right foot with the hands, if you will...rather than brake at nosebleed rates of deceleration in a straight line. The former requires deliberate, conscious efforts at perfecting one's racecraft...the latter a monkey can do without much trouble. Effective braking is definitely part of that racecraft. Understanding rates of weight transfer, how the tire profile changes under compression, how the suspension geometry responds, etc...this all helps us utilize the brakes more effectively. Generally speaking, and we have this conversation with pro-drivers all the time (even in Indy Lights), a "fast squeeze" onto the brake pedal will work better than a "jump on it as fast as possible from the throttle", as it allows a split second for inherent weight transfer to occur and effectively "pre-loads" the front suspension and tires to optimally accept/receive the impending brake torque. Sure, if you jump on the brake pedal, it feels great, but you are creating very rapid heat spikes on the tires (as well as numerous other issues), and over the course of a race distance, that tire won't turn or brake as well for you near the end if you treat it like shit at every brake zone. Left foot braking is a different beast, but I don't think most people here are left-foot brakers, as I haven't seen mention of a sequential or dogbox installed. Re: ABS...it's best not to drive the car with the thought that it will "fix" your braking. It's a safety measure...drive the car (i.e. use the brakes) as if it didn't have ABS, and you will learn to brake more effectively. If you disable your ABS and you find yourself flatspotting tires (I don't recommend this on-track for most...safety issues...but on a controlled straight perhaps...), you're pressing too hard or too fast on the brake pedal; this is an over simplification, but you understand the point. I appreciate the apparent enthusiasm and support for our products on this forum and hope it continues going forward. If you have any questions, since this forum post will probably be a "one time deal" due to time...please feel free to send e-mail to service@cobaltfriction.com . Be good, be safe, have fun at the track... Andie W. Lin Director, Motorsports R&D Cobalt Friction Technologies www.cobaltfriction.com |
10-08-2013, 07:58 PM | #366 | |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: KY
Posts: 112
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10-08-2013, 09:45 PM | #367 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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This thread is full of WIN!
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10-09-2013, 01:16 PM | #368 | |
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 997
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Went in to my mechanic today and found the front slotted RB rotors were warped as hell. That was from a total of two track days, one with the RB pads I mentioned earlier, and the other with the Hawk DTC-30 pads. He had to machine them down about 20 thousandths. I don't know enough about this to know how rotors get warped that quickly, but am guessing it has something to do with wrong pads overheating. FYI the backing material to the Hawk pads was charred and crispy, so they definitely got very hot. Pete
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Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts. |
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10-09-2013, 02:16 PM | #369 | |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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10-09-2013, 02:21 PM | #370 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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How thick is each rotor face? |
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10-09-2013, 02:43 PM | #371 | |
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 997
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Nope. RB does not guarantee them in track applications. Just called and asked
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Back of the Hawk DTC-30's below for anyone curious:
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Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts. |
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10-09-2013, 02:45 PM | #372 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Toast.
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10-09-2013, 04:38 PM | #373 | |
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 997
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If that's the toast, then here's a video of the toaster:
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Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts. |
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10-09-2013, 05:55 PM | #374 |
So Cal Race Team
Drives: 2013 Camaro Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sunny So Cal
Posts: 3,584
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Wow...
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10-09-2013, 08:31 PM | #375 |
Drives: pleather and Chiclets Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: a line somwhere
Posts: 4,206
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Wonder if cobalt makes a pad to fit racingbrakes calipers. Hmmmmm maybe a collaboration is in order?
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10-09-2013, 08:33 PM | #376 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Nice run. Imagine what you can do with good brakes ;-)
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10-10-2013, 08:09 PM | #377 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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This is a good photo showing the rotor surface after a couple of hard days at the track. The CTS=V caliper has that wonderful golden road course patina, but the rotor looks as though it was just resurfaced.
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10-11-2013, 05:24 PM | #378 | |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: KY
Posts: 112
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I will have to take a look at the Hawk pads when i remove them.
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