10 seconds on 10PSI?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by cam99

I will try to remember the sct next time I go and data log for you. I have been hesitant to have you tweek anything because I love how it runs right now and hate to change it, lol.

It can only get better bud.

Ted.

[stevenm357]

you have an SCT (great to have your tuner here) can't you just change tire size pretty easily? Flash it at the track and reflash at home.

Cam, you can save that tune go back to what you wanted the other way, but in all honesty your splitting hairs here to get a 10 second time slip, I would honestly bet a tuner right there at the track could get you that 1-2 tenth's your seeking.. every air is different. and being optimized for that time right there can make that much difference.

as can holding certain gear for a couple hundred RPM more,

a splash of race gas and a few degrees of timing.

or you could skip the cheese burger and go for a walk on national go for a walk at lunch day.

[cam99]

Originally Posted by stevenm357

you have an SCT (great to have your tuner here) can't you just change tire size pretty easily? Flash it at the track and reflash at home.

Cam, you can save that tune go back to what you wanted the other way, but in all honesty your splitting hairs here to get a 10 second time slip, I would honestly bet a tuner right there at the track could get you that 1-2 tenth's your seeking.. every air is different. and being optimized for that time right there can make that much difference.

as can holding certain gear for a couple hundred RPM more,

a splash of race gas and a few degrees of timing.

or you could skip the cheese burger and go for a walk on national go for a walk at lunch day.

Way ahead of you buddy, I've lost 6 pounds so far....another 30 or so to go :(

[Stephen12ZL1]

I ran again tonight with an 8.66" lower only and was pleased with the results. Hats off to an 11.0 anything like that Cam, but I still managed an 11.34@123.9 with a 1.68 60'. The air was ok with a DA about +600ft. I couldn't get my local tuner that has my tunes in his laptop to reflash so running again with 505rwhp/544rwtq...road course pulley/tune. I'm amazed it runs that well with an 8.66" lower only. My car was drag radials only with stock fronts at full weight.

[newmoon]

It's amazing what you folks are doing with mild bolt-ons especially with the automatic car. I've been watching what the 500s have been running with similar bolt-ons and while their mph is better your e/ts are , Keep up the great work solid 10s will come soon.

[CAM....ZL1]

I ran a 7.19 with a 1.65 60' @ 102.27 In the 1/8 last night with simple bolt ons, in the auto.

[McRat]

Just generic tips, not ZL-1 specific.

128x mph is will go 10.6 on a 1.60 sixty. Something is being left on the table during the run.

Data log a few passes with an eye toward actual TPS, and total timing, and K/R. Also watch the side1 02 sensors. I'm going to guess you're making full power in 4th, but not so in first through 3rd.

Could be something as simple as KR or IAT retard?

Track tuning can make massive differences if the engine is being detuned at points in the pass. You might also see the strange Leaner As You Go effect. Sadly the GM ECM's I work with cannot adjust the A/F ratio per gear.

If you are not already sealed ram-air, make it.

Usually passenger seat and rear seats can be removed with simple tools, and are good for at least a tenth.

Make sure your rears are light and equal circumference. The smaller the rim the better. Only air them down as much as you need, as low pressure equals drag.

Skinnies are a safety item, but can also reduce weight. Wide stiff tires in the nose will make the car much easier to loop if you hit oil/coolant/water. The thin soft fronts will absorb a lot of the rotational force from unequal rear traction.

Pounds removed from the rolling gear are the best pounds. Sometime they can act like 3 times the chassis weight mods.

If the MAF body is aluminum and contains the IAT, (dunno), chill it before each pass. A nitrous bottle works great for this.

Weight reduction is your good friend. It saves parts and reduces ET's. Nose weight is most critical. Empty the windshield bottle, remove AC belt, pull off bling in the bay, pull headlight etc.

[cam99]

Originally Posted by McRat

Just generic tips, not ZL-1 specific.

128x mph is will go 10.6 on a 1.60 sixty. Something is being left on the table during the run.

Data log a few passes with an eye toward actual TPS, and total timing, and K/R. Also watch the side1 02 sensors. I'm going to guess you're making full power in 4th, but not so in first through 3rd.

Could be something as simple as KR or IAT retard?

Track tuning can make massive differences if the engine is being detuned at points in the pass. You might also see the strange Leaner As You Go effect. Sadly the GM ECM's I work with cannot adjust the A/F ratio per gear.

If you are not already sealed ram-air, make it.

Usually passenger seat and rear seats can be removed with simple tools, and are good for at least a tenth.

Make sure your rears are light and equal circumference. The smaller the rim the better. Only air them down as much as you need, as low pressure equals drag.

Skinnies are a safety item, but can also reduce weight. Wide stiff tires in the nose will make the car much easier to loop if you hit oil/coolant/water. The thin soft fronts will absorb a lot of the rotational force from unequal rear traction.

Pounds removed from the rolling gear are the best pounds. Sometime they can act like 3 times the chassis weight mods.

If the MAF body is aluminum and contains the IAT, (dunno), chill it before each pass. A nitrous bottle works great for this.

Weight reduction is your good friend. It saves parts and reduces ET's. Nose weight is most critical. Empty the windshield bottle, remove AC belt, pull off bling in the bay, pull headlight etc.

I have as much weight loss (on the car) as possible before getting to the crazy expensive stuff. I imagine there is about 200-250 or so pounds out if I added it all up. I have an aeroforce gauge set to KR and iat2 temps. I only get a flash of KR very briefly if at all on a run and iats are usually under 80 degree's on a decent day. Oddly my mph was off (123-124) two weeks ago when I went, although the et was similar. I did accidentally leave my intercooler pump and cooling fan jumpers in for a long time and drained my 17# braille battery before my first run. Had to get it started with a jump pack and directly make a pass, so I'm not sure if there was some relearning going on with the dead battery situation or not. The shifts wern't as agressive that night i noticed.

[McRat]

Sounds like you are doing everything right.

Hmmm... Just thoughts. These are the kinds of things we did lower ET's on LS# engines:

With Fly-By-Wire cars, they can partially close the throttle on command when you are WOT. Make sure that is not the case. All babysitters need to be off.

Up to 3-4° KR doesn't hurt much. Simply because that much timing isn't that important.

Run 100 octane unleaded race gas that is spiked with MTBE, not ethanol. Ethanol reduces power more than MTBE does, but it was banned for street use by the EPA. Motorcycle and race shops often carry it. Make sure it's a high volume dealer, as it has a shelf life.

Route your PCV into the atmosphere with a baby K&N.

Battery voltage under load is critical for late model performance.

A "lift pump" can increase injector pressure during hard acceleration. With a 1.91 60' you are 1g of forward acceleration. So it's like your car being angled up at a 45° angle and having to draw fuel uphill.

Check your static pad drag on the disks. High performance pads can add drag over cheap semi-metallics that have been broken in.

Front and rear alignment with zero toe in.

Fresh uber thin electrode spark plugs can add power up top.

Bumping the limit a couple hundred r's can get you more area under the curve.

Stage as shallow as you can, and run the car out 100' or more after the traps.

Can't think of any more "free mods".

Good luck, you'll get there. Nothing is worse than the 11.DOH. We sat at 11.001-11.005 for a month, then the track was closed for good. Heartbreak.

[cam99]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

I ran again tonight with an 8.66" lower only and was pleased with the results. Hats off to an 11.0 anything like that Cam, but I still managed an 11.34@123.9 with a 1.68 60'. The air was ok with a DA about +600ft. I couldn't get my local tuner that has my tunes in his laptop to reflash so running again with 505rwhp/544rwtq...road course pulley/tune. I'm amazed it runs that well with an 8.66" lower only. My car was drag radials only with stock fronts at full weight.

Wow, I just glanced at your sig again and see your PB is with a 1.53 60'. Does it always 60' that strong? You're still stock stall right?

Originally Posted by McRat

Good luck, you'll get there. Nothing is worse than the 11.DOH. We sat at 11.001-11.005 for a month, then the track was closed for good. Heartbreak.

LOL, I feel your pain. I spent the fall trying to get a ten and hit 11.0 time and time again. Last weekend before it closed the DA was good and it ran an 11.00! Got lighter front tires and hit it again for the first time this year hoping to get it, but ran an 11.03 in 1600ish da

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by CAM....ZL1

I ran a 7.19 with a 1.65 60' @ 102.27 In the 1/8 last night with simple bolt ons, in the auto.

my best 1/8 was 7.29@95 last night on the 11.34@123.9

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by cam99

Wow, I just glanced at your sig again and see your PB is with a 1.53 60'. Does it always 60' that strong? You're still stock stall right?



LOL, I feel your pain. I spent the fall trying to get a ten and hit 11.0 time and time again. Last weekend before it closed the DA was good and it ran an 11.00! Got lighter front tires and hit it again for the first time this year hoping to get it, but ran an 11.03 in 1600ish da

my best 60' on "full kill mode" is 1.53. With 93 octane on the same 10" lower, 1.57 is my best 60' with the 305/35-18 m/t drag radials. The 17" M&H drag radials bite better hence the 1.53 on race fuel. Last night on the 8.66 pulley, 1.68 was my best and this was a dead hook...nothing traction limited there and my rpm was barely over idle (1000ish) on launch. I probably could have brought the rpms up 2-300rpm before launch to lower the 60'. Yes, still stock stall.

[cam99]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

my best 60' on "full kill mode" is 1.53. With 93 octane on the same 10" lower, 1.57 is my best 60' with the 305/35-18 m/t drag radials. The 17" M&H drag radials bite better hence the 1.53 on race fuel. Last night on the 8.66 pulley, 1.68 was my best and this was a dead hook...nothing traction limited there and my rpm was barely over idle (1000ish) on launch. I probably could have brought the rpms up 2-300rpm before launch to lower the 60'. Yes, still stock stall.

Damn nice! I dont think ive 60' any better than 1.59 and just like you said I launch around 1200 rpm. Seems to be the sweet spot

[CAM....ZL1]

I have a 9.17 lower and my best 60 was a 1.64. A 1.5 ish would be great