Audio / Sub-woofer Options for the Convertible? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

2Intense · 01-04-2016, 03:11 PM

I have only had my 2014 convertible SS for a couple of months. I love the car and the MyLink System, Boston Acoustic, rear view camera, etc.

That said, I am very disappointed in the audio output. Regardless of the input (XM, iPod, etc.) the audio volume is ridiculously low. The sound quality is fine, but with the top down I would like to be able to thump it a little bit and this factory system just doesn't cut it.

I have read about the factory MTX Audio Amp/Sub (@$950) but not compatible with the convertible:

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Accessories...FcRffgod8AoABA

I also saw the Kicker VSS PCAMA13MY (@$1250) which I really liked albeit pricey but once again it is for the Coupe and not compatible with the Convertible.

http://www.kicker.com/PCAMA13MY

I had a bad experience when I replaced the factory head unit in my Corvette with an aftermarket head unit, sub and speakers. I achieved the goal of more thump and loudness but the system was never as crisp as the OEM system I removed. I do not want to make the same mistake on this Camaro and would like to find a clean factory-like solution for the convertible.

I would welcome suggestions or feedback from the forum members on the subject.

Thanks in advance.

2012LS3VERT · 01-14-2016, 02:26 PM

The biggest hold up is the factory amp. Replace it, and the speakers will sound MUCH better, even with the center speaker disconnected. Adapter harnesses are available. The factory sub sounds better with the new amp as well, a small 5 channel amp would fit the bill. You would also have the option of changing the factory 10" sub, you just need a new speaker plate and any decent 10" sub.

2Intense · 01-15-2016, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

The biggest hold up is the factory amp. Replace it, and the speakers will sound MUCH better, even with the center speaker disconnected. Adapter harnesses are available. The factory sub sounds better with the new amp as well, a small 5 channel amp would fit the bill. You would also have the option of changing the factory 10" sub, you just need a new speaker plate and any decent 10" sub.

Thanks for the reply.....

What drives the need to disconnect the center speaker? Where is the 10" sub located on the convertible?

Any link to explain the layout or photos etc. greatly appreciated.

2012LS3VERT · 01-15-2016, 09:42 AM

When replacing the amp with a typical aftermarket amp, you only get 4 channels for the left and right sides. Also, most audio is encoded for stereo (2 channel) anyway, so the center speaker is combining the two and messing up the staging. The 5th channel on a 5 channel aftermarket amp would be used to drive the sub. The sub on the vert is behind the rear seat, that is actually a speaker grill between the rear seat backs.

vgradio · 01-15-2016, 12:02 PM

Have a look here:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395145

It has improved a lot the sound quality and power.

I have recently swapped the heat unit, which brings another improvement step. Still have some alternator noise to filter, and working on it:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434469

2012LS3VERT · 01-15-2016, 01:41 PM

Good build, I am doing something similar. I used to work in car stereo. I actually just swapped in a Mylink to my 2012, because I hate the dash kits. I will be running a signal processor such as the Fosgate 3Sixty.3 or the JL audio OEM integration signal processor to clean up the signal.

2Intense · 01-16-2016, 01:10 AM

Great stuff guys, thanks.

Mr V · 01-16-2016, 01:55 AM

Here is one option

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS/RS VERT

The JL Audio Stealthbox was my choice for my convertible. It fits seemlessly under the safety screen.

Its not the cheapest option, but I think it's the best.

Whitechrome · 03-04-2016, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr V

Here is one option

what size are the subs in the stealth box? what kind off amp are you using?

RAP2011RSRAGTOP · 03-12-2016, 06:00 PM

HERE IS WHAT I DID, I USED THE ******** "FARK" HARNESS

NEW SPEAKERS AND AMPS, STOCK WIRING AND DASH UNIT

SOUND GREAT !

xnuyokr · 03-14-2016, 06:50 AM

For more thump start with replacing the factory sub. I believe its a 9". Remove the back of the rear seats to locate it. I put a kicker in it and sounds fantastic. Start with this and take it from there. I bought the adapter from a vendor on this site as the factory sub is in a metal assembly that gets removed.

sehovarter · 05-10-2017, 09:04 AM

2Intense - have you done anything yet? I am going my upgrade this weekend and have already looked all the steps over pretty good - this will be fairly easy if you have any skills. I got the FARK kit and the submount and Amp mount from Steve at ********, and I purchased a JPL Audio XD700/5v2 5 channel amp and a JL 4 ohm 10 inch subwoofer from Crutchfield. My "Phase I" is to replace the amp and sub. Phase 2 is get some better component speakers in the doors (buying Focal PS 165K's from CarToys this weekend). the amp will go in EASY. you need an upholstery tool to get the side panel off (2 press fit studs that you destroy getting them out - pick up new ones at AutoZone or the dealer). access for wiring the amp to the battery is a snap - get a good amp cable kit from Crutchfield as well - the ground will attach to the battery ground stud in the battery well and the positive will go easily to the stud on the battery terminal. you then have easy access to the back of the seat where you need to run a new wire for the new sub. I honestly think the wiring in the trunk will take me 1.5 to 2 hrs. the only item I am still wrestling with is how to mount the amp fusebox - drill and screw or just use 2 way tape/velcro - since it is in the battery hole, do I need to drill holes into the tub? while replacing the sub is straightforward - I also want to do some soundproofing, so that part will take around the same amount of time I am guessing - remove the rear seat, then the OEM sub. pull the wire from the trunk through (note - once you install the FARK kit, your OEM sub won't work unless you run a dedicated wire to it from the new amp). I have some noico sound dampening material to cover the wall where the sub mounts (Amazon around $65 for 25 sq feet - plenty) and just ordered some Polyfil from Walmart, to pack the cavities Left and Right of the sub, and to lightly fill the center hole where the sub will go. it is these xtra steps that will take me some time - if I just swapped out the sub, i would be done in 30-45 min! once I have Phase 1 done, I plan to let Cartoys to the door speakers - primarily because everytime I take door panels off I bust a frickin clip somewhere and it pisses me off! I plan to have them dial in the amp settings for me too - so I have the entire system balanced out. speakers are expensive, but sound great and perform well at all power levels, low to high! I plan to take some pics so let me know if you want me to share - unless you are already done! Cheers

2Intense · 05-10-2017, 09:16 AM

I have not done anything yet.... PLEASE post pictures once you're done!

01-04-2016, 03:11 PM	#1
2Intense Drives: 2015 Camaro RS Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: California Posts: 99	Audio / Sub-woofer Options for the Convertible? I have only had my 2014 convertible SS for a couple of months. I love the car and the MyLink System, Boston Acoustic, rear view camera, etc. That said, I am very disappointed in the audio output. Regardless of the input (XM, iPod, etc.) the audio volume is ridiculously low. The sound quality is fine, but with the top down I would like to be able to thump it a little bit and this factory system just doesn't cut it. I have read about the factory MTX Audio Amp/Sub (@$950) but not compatible with the convertible: http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Accessories...FcRffgod8AoABA I also saw the Kicker VSS PCAMA13MY (@$1250) which I really liked albeit pricey but once again it is for the Coupe and not compatible with the Convertible. http://www.kicker.com/PCAMA13MY I had a bad experience when I replaced the factory head unit in my Corvette with an aftermarket head unit, sub and speakers. I achieved the goal of more thump and loudness but the system was never as crisp as the OEM system I removed. I do not want to make the same mistake on this Camaro and would like to find a clean factory-like solution for the convertible. I would welcome suggestions or feedback from the forum members on the subject. Thanks in advance.

03-12-2016, 06:00 PM	#10
RAP2011RSRAGTOP Drives: 2018 ZL1 CONV. & 2011 2LT RS CONV. Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: LECANTO, FL. Posts: 67	HERE IS WHAT I DID, I USED THE ******** "FARK" HARNESS NEW SPEAKERS AND AMPS, STOCK WIRING AND DASH UNIT SOUND GREAT ! Attached Images

03-14-2016, 06:50 AM	#11
xnuyokr Drives: 2012 1LT Drop Top Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Yardley, Pa Posts: 745	For more thump start with replacing the factory sub. I believe its a 9". Remove the back of the rear seats to locate it. I put a kicker in it and sounds fantastic. Start with this and take it from there. I bought the adapter from a vendor on this site as the factory sub is in a metal assembly that gets removed. __________________

05-10-2017, 09:04 AM	#12
sehovarter HomezSS Drives: 2014 SS/RS Camaro, 2011 Silverado Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Golden, CO Posts: 96	2Intense - have you done anything yet? I am going my upgrade this weekend and have already looked all the steps over pretty good - this will be fairly easy if you have any skills. I got the FARK kit and the submount and Amp mount from Steve at *******, and I purchased a JPL Audio XD700/5v2 5 channel amp and a JL 4 ohm 10 inch subwoofer from Crutchfield. My "Phase I" is to replace the amp and sub. Phase 2 is get some better component speakers in the doors (buying Focal PS 165K's from CarToys this weekend). the amp will go in EASY. you need an upholstery tool to get the side panel off (2 press fit studs that you destroy getting them out - pick up new ones at AutoZone or the dealer). access for wiring the amp to the battery is a snap - get a good amp cable kit from Crutchfield as well - the ground will attach to the battery ground stud in the battery well and the positive will go easily to the stud on the battery terminal. you then have easy access to the back of the seat where you need to run a new wire for the new sub. I honestly think the wiring in the trunk will take me 1.5 to 2 hrs. the only item I am still wrestling with is how to mount the amp fusebox - drill and screw or just use 2 way tape/velcro - since it is in the battery hole, do I need to drill holes into the tub? while replacing the sub is straightforward - I also want to do some soundproofing, so that part will take around the same amount of time I am guessing - remove the rear seat, then the OEM sub. pull the wire from the trunk through (note - once you install the FARK kit, your OEM sub won't work unless you run a dedicated wire to it from the new amp). I have some noico sound dampening material to cover the wall where the sub mounts (Amazon around $65 for 25 sq feet - plenty) and just ordered some Polyfil from Walmart, to pack the cavities Left and Right of the sub, and to lightly fill the center hole where the sub will go. it is these xtra steps that will take me some time - if I just swapped out the sub, i would be done in 30-45 min! once I have Phase 1 done, I plan to let Cartoys to the door speakers - primarily because everytime I take door panels off I bust a frickin clip somewhere and it pisses me off! I plan to have them dial in the amp settings for me too - so I have the entire system balanced out. speakers are expensive, but sound great and perform well at all power levels, low to high! I plan to take some pics so let me know if you want me to share - unless you are already done! Cheers __________________ HOMEZSS* 2014 SS/RS, FR Style 41's, 20x10x4, Borla CatBack with Touring Mufflers w/Magnaflow Glasspacks, Cold Air Inductions Intake, Diablo 91 Octane Tune, Firm Shift, AFM off, BMR cradle inserts, trailing arms and toe links, 1LE/ZL1 Rear Sway Bar, Jannetty Custom Tune for mods noted above (noticable change to how the car drives!!), JL Audio XD700/5 amp and 10 inch Sub, Focal PS 165K's, special wiring kit and amp board, and lots of dynamat (Amazon version) - Sounds GREAT, Runs Even Better! Last edited by sehovarter; 07-20-2017 at 05:15 AM.

01-14-2016, 02:26 PM	#2
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	The biggest hold up is the factory amp. Replace it, and the speakers will sound MUCH better, even with the center speaker disconnected. Adapter harnesses are available. The factory sub sounds better with the new amp as well, a small 5 channel amp would fit the bill. You would also have the option of changing the factory 10" sub, you just need a new speaker plate and any decent 10" sub.

01-15-2016, 09:42 AM	#4
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	When replacing the amp with a typical aftermarket amp, you only get 4 channels for the left and right sides. Also, most audio is encoded for stereo (2 channel) anyway, so the center speaker is combining the two and messing up the staging. The 5th channel on a 5 channel aftermarket amp would be used to drive the sub. The sub on the vert is behind the rear seat, that is actually a speaker grill between the rear seat backs.

01-15-2016, 12:02 PM	#5
vgradio Drives: ZL1 convertible 2013 Silver Ice Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Switzerland Posts: 100	Have a look here: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395145 It has improved a lot the sound quality and power. I have recently swapped the heat unit, which brings another improvement step. Still have some alternator noise to filter, and working on it: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434469

01-15-2016, 01:41 PM	#6
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	Good build, I am doing something similar. I used to work in car stereo. I actually just swapped in a Mylink to my 2012, because I hate the dash kits. I will be running a signal processor such as the Fosgate 3Sixty.3 or the JL audio OEM integration signal processor to clean up the signal.

01-16-2016, 01:10 AM	#7
2Intense Drives: 2015 Camaro RS Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: California Posts: 99	Great stuff guys, thanks.

05-10-2017, 09:16 AM	#13
2Intense Drives: 2015 Camaro RS Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: California Posts: 99	I have not done anything yet.... PLEASE post pictures once you're done!