Broke Something - Help Identify - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

*CamaroSpike23* · 01-31-2011, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smaegley

Thanks for the support guys. I'm going to talk to them again about this. First I want to make sure they have the right part identified. I installed the skip shift eliminator an it isn't that solenoid that I broke. It is above that one. I'll also ask them for a better breakdown of the plan to replace the part. Perhaps I can get them to first just lower the tranny a bit and not remove the whole thing. Maybe the estimate is just a worst case.

As for doing this myself...perhaps if my dad were still around. I'm no kid, I'm 42, but he was a Mechanical Engineer and he could fix anything and I would only trust him. He once fixed a busted U-joint on the side of the road to get him home (at least that's the story). I think I'd also have a bit of trouble convincing the wife that I was going to have the car towed home so that I could drop the tranny and replace the part myself. That is what got me in this mess.

I don't think I will never mod again. I love to DIY, it keeps me sane. But this is a big mistake right now, and I think I'll lay low for a bit.

Thanks for your advice. I think I'll try to reason with this dealer.

dont let them suck you into wasting the money on that if you can do it yourself.

look around in the regional sections and see if there might be a member or two that would be willing to help you out.

Smoky10 · 01-31-2011, 04:11 PM

Good luck with the dealer. And I promise you it isn't anywhere near as hard as you think it is.

Russell James · 01-31-2011, 04:29 PM

There is only two solenoids. The skip shift (2nd and 3rd gear blocking) which is the one circled in red in the pic. The other one is farther back on the same side, which is the reverse solenoid. Neither you have to remove the trans for. The reverse is easier, more room back by the end of the tailshaft. The skip shift is very tight against the tunnel, the trans just needs to be lowered a bit to access that.

Cam 427 · 01-31-2011, 06:28 PM

If you have a jack and stands, consider doing it yourself. As stated previously, lower the transmission by backing off the transmission crossmember bolts, but not all the way, to get some more room. The solenoid is just screwed in. Torque is 30 foot pounds.
The service manual does state the removal of the exhaust and drive shaft then removing the crossmember and "slightly lower the transmission to gain access to the solenoid". It doesn't require the removal of the transmission.
I broke things when I started driving cars and modding. I still do... It's how you learn. A service manual is very helpful.

Alfieboy · 01-31-2011, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTAHVIT

a tow truck home would be worth it.

AGREE.. If I were by you Id use my rollback & take you home, BETTER yet to my home and we'd fix it..

Sorry that seems way way on high side... and it isnt that damn difficult to replace....

I dunno what the Book calls for but if its just dropping tranny down some and replacing.....that isnt 9 hrs...

Rick

AG454 · 01-31-2011, 06:55 PM

So did you try to drive the car after you broke the soleniod? Do I understand you had previously installed a skip shift harness? Is it still connected or did the plastic part break where it connects toghether. If you can drive the car get it out of the dealer and buy the replacement part. I will help you replace it, we have a group of guys here in the area who are mod crazy and can help you. I put on a skip shift harness and a Hurst shifter right after I got my car and I know there is not much room up there, especially if you have big hands. Let me know if you want some help, don't worry, I have broke stuff too doing mod or repair work, everyone has.

IROCanSS · 01-31-2011, 07:08 PM

If I were in CO, I'd come do this for you for a pizza and a pepsi but I don't. Listen to everyone. IF it really is what you broke, its a cake job. Now the thing that puzzles me is the fluid. There should be no fluid if you broke the selonoid OR from installing the shifter. I have installed a few and never encountered any fluid.

I had to lower the tranny to install the hurst and it did not require removing the exhaust or driveshaft but both are simple to remove. As stated, this may be the perfect time for you to get your hands dirty...

As I said the only thing that puzzles me it the fluid

smaegley · 01-31-2011, 07:18 PM

AG383 - Yeah I installed a skip shift eliminator. I broke the dummy clip off of the solenoid. I didn't start it because I heard a slight hissing sound after I broke it, like air rushing through a small crack. I also saw what I think is transmission fluid (pink), slightly dripping out of the the crack. I could be wrong. Some on here say there should be no fluid, so maybe I'm mistaken.

I don't care about the solenoid, but I do care about a leak. If the consensus is that this should be drivable, I may consider bringing it home. I just don't want to start it up and blow out all of the tranny fluid and end up ruining that too.

As far as your offer for help. thanks. It's good to know I've got backup if I need it. I'm still thinking that I just need to get a pro to finish this one off. My SS is my daily driver, although I still have my Mazda6, and I really want it to just work. Another expensive mistake (like destroying the tranny) would pretty much ruin everything for me and I may be forced to abandon this hobby I've got a limited budget for this car. But I may end up calling on you if I change my mind.

Thanks again. BTW: our cars are almost twins except for the stripes and grill. Not to many IBM out there.

AG454 · 01-31-2011, 07:20 PM

You say it was the solenoid above the one you installed the skip shift harness on, that has to be the reverse lockout soleniod, right people. So he should be able to drive the car right? Just lowering the trans like we do to install a shifter should give us enough room to get at it. It is bitter cold here so I am not going to go out and look at my car, but it will warm up by the weekend and I would be willing to help you out.

smaegley · 01-31-2011, 09:05 PM

Would someone who has the manual be willing to scan and send me the procedure for replacing the 2rd-3rd lockout solenoid on a the SS M6? Or maybe this is the kick in the pants I need to just buy the damn manuals.

I just want to look it over and see if my mechanical skills are up to it.

*GTAHVIT* · 01-31-2011, 09:35 PM

I understand you being on a budget..

But we've all made mistakes when working on our cars. Don't beat yourself up.

we've all done it.. Trust me.

Like you said. most important thing is not to make it worse. do your research, just like you are... and before you know it... problem solved and money saved.

Hang in there bro. Just keep us posted we'll do what ever we can to get you the answers you need.

Russell James · 02-01-2011, 08:04 AM

I pm'd you the instructions for the solenoid. If you have 4 24" jackstands should be very doable. The exhaust is kind of a pain to do on the floor. Having 2 floor jacks helps with that, a jack under each muffler. Unbolt the corners of the rear valance, that will give the valance a little more flex as you work the exhaust out. When taking the exhaust out, be real carelfull not to put the weight on the exhaust on the valance openings. That's where having a floor jack under each muffler helps.

The solenoid has fluid in it. So depending how it broke, it could be leaking. I wouldn't drive it with it leaking, don't want to run low or leak onto the hot exhaust.

*GTAHVIT* · 02-01-2011, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

I pm'd you the instructions for the solenoid. If you have 4 24" jackstands should be very doable. The exhaust is kind of a pain to do on the floor. Having 2 floor jacks helps with that, a jack under each muffler. Unbolt the corners of the rear valance, that will give the valance a little more flex as you work the exhaust out. When taking the exhaust out, be real carelfull not to put the weight on the exhaust on the valance openings. That's where having a floor jack under each muffler helps.

The solenoid has fluid in it. So depending how it broke, it could be leaking. I wouldn't drive it with it leaking, don't want to run low or leak onto the hot exhaust.

*CamaroSpike23* · 02-01-2011, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

The solenoid has fluid in it. So depending how it broke, it could be leaking. I wouldn't drive it with it leaking, don't want to run low or leak onto the hot exhaust.

unless its pouring out, I wouldn't worry too much about the leak depending on how far you have to drive to get it home.

01-31-2011, 06:55 PM	#34
AG454 I am not "Fast & Furious" Drives: 2010 Camaro LSX454 1LE Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Greeley Colorado Posts: 1,040 View My Garage	So did you try to drive the car after you broke the soleniod? Do I understand you had previously installed a skip shift harness? Is it still connected or did the plastic part break where it connects toghether. If you can drive the car get it out of the dealer and buy the replacement part. I will help you replace it, we have a group of guys here in the area who are mod crazy and can help you. I put on a skip shift harness and a Hurst shifter right after I got my car and I know there is not much room up there, especially if you have big hands. Let me know if you want some help, don't worry, I have broke stuff too doing mod or repair work, everyone has. __________________ The day I take a bend too fast Judgement that could be my last I'll be wiped right off the slate Don't wait up 'cause I'll be late, I'll be late

01-31-2011, 07:20 PM	#37
AG454 I am not "Fast & Furious" Drives: 2010 Camaro LSX454 1LE Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Greeley Colorado Posts: 1,040 View My Garage	You say it was the solenoid above the one you installed the skip shift harness on, that has to be the reverse lockout soleniod, right people. So he should be able to drive the car right? Just lowering the trans like we do to install a shifter should give us enough room to get at it. It is bitter cold here so I am not going to go out and look at my car, but it will warm up by the weekend and I would be willing to help you out. __________________ The day I take a bend too fast Judgement that could be my last I'll be wiped right off the slate Don't wait up 'cause I'll be late, I'll be late

01-31-2011, 09:35 PM	#39
GTAHVIT Blessed Drives: 2013 Sonic RS MT Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Saint Augustine FL Posts: 28,444 View My Garage	I understand you being on a budget.. But we've all made mistakes when working on our cars. Don't beat yourself up. we've all done it.. Trust me. Like you said. most important thing is not to make it worse. do your research, just like you are... and before you know it... problem solved and money saved. Hang in there bro. Just keep us posted we'll do what ever we can to get you the answers you need. __________________ Click image to see build thread. PQ - "the love of cars. It's a boys first step toward manhood and a mans last hold on boyhood." Fbodfather - "We do not want to use the Z28 moniker on a car that does not deserve this hallowed name." The_Blur - "Let's not confuse competitors with equals."

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01-31-2011, 04:11 PM	#30
Smoky10 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Navarre, FL Posts: 745	Good luck with the dealer. And I promise you it isn't anywhere near as hard as you think it is.

01-31-2011, 04:29 PM	#31
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,483	There is only two solenoids. The skip shift (2nd and 3rd gear blocking) which is the one circled in red in the pic. The other one is farther back on the same side, which is the reverse solenoid. Neither you have to remove the trans for. The reverse is easier, more room back by the end of the tailshaft. The skip shift is very tight against the tunnel, the trans just needs to be lowered a bit to access that.

01-31-2011, 06:28 PM	#32
Cam 427 Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Washington Posts: 677	If you have a jack and stands, consider doing it yourself. As stated previously, lower the transmission by backing off the transmission crossmember bolts, but not all the way, to get some more room. The solenoid is just screwed in. Torque is 30 foot pounds. The service manual does state the removal of the exhaust and drive shaft then removing the crossmember and "slightly lower the transmission to gain access to the solenoid". It doesn't require the removal of the transmission. I broke things when I started driving cars and modding. I still do... It's how you learn. A service manual is very helpful.

01-31-2011, 07:08 PM	#35
IROCanSS Account Suspended Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Back roads, southern Ohio Posts: 12,504 View My Garage	If I were in CO, I'd come do this for you for a pizza and a pepsi but I don't. Listen to everyone. IF it really is what you broke, its a cake job. Now the thing that puzzles me is the fluid. There should be no fluid if you broke the selonoid OR from installing the shifter. I have installed a few and never encountered any fluid. I had to lower the tranny to install the hurst and it did not require removing the exhaust or driveshaft but both are simple to remove. As stated, this may be the perfect time for you to get your hands dirty... As I said the only thing that puzzles me it the fluid

01-31-2011, 07:18 PM	#36
smaegley Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 IBM Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Broomfield, CO Posts: 24	AG383 - Yeah I installed a skip shift eliminator. I broke the dummy clip off of the solenoid. I didn't start it because I heard a slight hissing sound after I broke it, like air rushing through a small crack. I also saw what I think is transmission fluid (pink), slightly dripping out of the the crack. I could be wrong. Some on here say there should be no fluid, so maybe I'm mistaken. I don't care about the solenoid, but I do care about a leak. If the consensus is that this should be drivable, I may consider bringing it home. I just don't want to start it up and blow out all of the tranny fluid and end up ruining that too. As far as your offer for help. thanks. It's good to know I've got backup if I need it. I'm still thinking that I just need to get a pro to finish this one off. My SS is my daily driver, although I still have my Mazda6, and I really want it to just work. Another expensive mistake (like destroying the tranny) would pretty much ruin everything for me and I may be forced to abandon this hobby I've got a limited budget for this car. But I may end up calling on you if I change my mind. Thanks again. BTW: our cars are almost twins except for the stripes and grill. Not to many IBM out there.

01-31-2011, 09:05 PM	#38
smaegley Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 IBM Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Broomfield, CO Posts: 24	Would someone who has the manual be willing to scan and send me the procedure for replacing the 2rd-3rd lockout solenoid on a the SS M6? Or maybe this is the kick in the pants I need to just buy the damn manuals. I just want to look it over and see if my mechanical skills are up to it.

02-01-2011, 08:04 AM	#40
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,483	I pm'd you the instructions for the solenoid. If you have 4 24" jackstands should be very doable. The exhaust is kind of a pain to do on the floor. Having 2 floor jacks helps with that, a jack under each muffler. Unbolt the corners of the rear valance, that will give the valance a little more flex as you work the exhaust out. When taking the exhaust out, be real carelfull not to put the weight on the exhaust on the valance openings. That's where having a floor jack under each muffler helps. The solenoid has fluid in it. So depending how it broke, it could be leaking. I wouldn't drive it with it leaking, don't want to run low or leak onto the hot exhaust.