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Old 06-17-2010, 08:03 PM   #43
GeorgeM
 
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The clutch is tricky, takeup is high and abrupt.

I owned a 2008 Mustang GT prior to buying my Camaro and the clutch in the Mustang was much easier to drive. Takeup started close to the floor and was smooth, but it only had 300 hp!

I think the problem has more to do with the big 20" wheels and the 3.45 gear than anything else, no doubt due to MPG regulations. The car needs a 3.73 gear with 19" wheels.

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Old 06-17-2010, 09:36 PM   #44
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My clutch was really annoying, however after 500/600 miles and getting used to it, it feels much better
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:53 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeM View Post
The clutch is tricky, takeup is high and abrupt.

I owned a 2008 Mustang GT prior to buying my Camaro and the clutch in the Mustang was much easier to drive. Takeup started close to the floor and was smooth, but it only had 300 hp!

I think the problem has more to do with the big 20" wheels and the 3.45 gear than anything else, no doubt due to MPG regulations. The car needs a 3.73 gear with 19" wheels.

GeorgeM
you're right...since I installed 4.10's, it's easier to drive.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:05 PM   #46
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Hey was there ever a final verdict whether its harmful to remove the spring or not?
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:11 PM   #47
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People are adding stiffer springs to prevent clutch lockup and pedal to the floor syndrome under hard driving so I'd say it's a very bad idea. It's there to assist the hydraulic system. If it starts to stick part of the way down you'll burn your clutch up in no time.

No thanks.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:40 PM   #48
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Damn was really hoping for an easy fix for the clutch engaging so far up "top". Im just used to alot softer/more clutch travel
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:56 PM   #49
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I've suffered from a stiff, awkward clutch pedal for quite some time. I removed the return spring tonight & will see how it works tomorrow.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:00 AM   #50
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I removed the spring & the feel is much more linear. The pedal effort is only slightly less, but I have much better control over the release.
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:49 PM   #51
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Another thing that helped clutch feel was flush, fill, bleed the brake/clutch fluid. Feel like a normal clutch now.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:29 AM   #52
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This clutch is tricky and I'm having a hard time getting used to it. I learned to drive a stick in a kenworth with a 10 speed when I was 10-11 yrs old, Im 43 :( What makes it even worse is that my legs are too short and the floor board is like a mile away.

I think im going to try removing the spring.
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:55 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truespartan View Post
After talking to one of my friends who is an engineer for a major car company I have decided to put the spring back on.

He says on some, actually most, hydraulic clutches the clutch does not engage fast so the spring helps with the engagement. Actually he says it its probably necessary that the spring stays on for the clutch to engage all the way. He says if Chevy decided to put the spring in there for this purpose it should be left in.

Just his 2 cents. Im going to follow them
The clutch return spring has nothing to do with the clutch engaging properly, but rather it is purely to protect the throwout bearing and clutch assembly from premature wear from drivers riding the clutch. Although most drivers may not ride the clutch, the addition of the spring will help prevent many clutch warranty claims. If you remove the spring you will see that the clutch pedal extends out to full length no problem.

The clutch pedal feel on this car is awful. The pedal springiness and stiffness peaks right at the catch point, which makes it very difficult to clutch it smoothly and is also uncomfortable to drive. I could live with it if I had to, but it is an obvious GM engineering flaw (just like the worthless radio controls on the right side of the steering wheel rather than the left). I removed my spring today and am astonished how much better the car drives. The clutch pedal still extends to full position easily without the spring, and I don't ride the clutch either so it will not cause any problems. I have heard that some of the Vette guys do this first thing on the brand new Vettes.

For all of you considering this, try it and you will likely be very happy. You can always put it back on later if you wish. The only reason I would not recommend it is if you do realize you ride your clutch, then leave it in place and get used to it.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:00 PM   #54
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Red face HYDRAULIC CLUTCH

I AM 68 YEARS OLD AND HAVE BEEN DRIVING MANUAL TRANS CARS SINCE I WAS 15 YEARS OLD.I THOUGHT SOMETHING WAS WRONG WITH THE CLUTCH OR IT WAS ME.ALL THE CARS I HAVE DRIVEN WITH MANUAL TRANS THE CLUTCH ALWAYS WOULD GRAB OFF THE FLOOR.I WILL JUST HAVE TO GET USE TO THE CLUTCH . ZL1 6 SPEED
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:26 PM   #55
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Clutch pedal sticking to floor on hard launches is a design problem, at least in the 2010 SS clutch. Neither of my aftermarket clutches displayed even a whisper of this problem, even when flogging them through full seasons of drag racing. At the strip is where I first had the clutch on floor problem with 4500 rpm launches. Immediately replaced it after that experience. As for the spring, I don't even know if my 2010 has one. Obviously I've not removed mine ;-)

Anyone who says clutch dust in the hydraulic fluid causes this is clueless.
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:47 PM   #56
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i actually learned on my Camaro SS M6. It was hard, but definitely worth it!
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