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Old 06-10-2012, 12:47 PM   #1
Griffintile
 
Drives: 2011 IOM 2SS/RS L99 convertible
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Questions about upgrading system.

I am currently in the process of upgrading my BA system in my vert.
I have already made my own harness for an amp.
Replaced the factory 3.5" rear with some 2ohm infinity 2way speakers.
I am waiting on some parts that I ordered to arrive: I have ******** large driver side stealth box, amp mount, and an Alpine pdx-v9 5ch amp to power it all. My sub is an Alpine type r 10" dual 4ohm, last years model, and I am currently using stock fronts, with the center and stock sub disconnected.
I have used Peel and Seal (a cheap and almost as effective Dynamatt alternative from Lowes), to help with the rattling in the trunk.

My questions are what head unit and dash kit (if any) would retain Onstar, Onstar Turn by Turn (on center gauge and HUD), factory Bluetooth, and steering wheel controls?
I am wanting to keep most of the stock features intact, but want to add DVD, apps, touch screen, and better audio. Not really interested in Nav or XM, but if those could be added later that would be ok.

I also plan on upgrading the front speakers, and possibly using the four channels on the amp to run the components and using the amps band pass, and crossover feature to improve on the front sound stage. The stock head unit could then be used to power rear 3.5" for fill.
What would be a good speaker that would handle the power of the amp, I would like them to have good bass, because the sub is not as loud when the top is down. The quality of the crossovers are not as important as the sound and price of the compontent speakers.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:50 PM   #2
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how did the peel and seal work for you? was considering using it in the trunk to muffle some drone
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:33 PM   #3
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Worked surprisingly well, 1 roll did the wheel well and trunk floor. Going to get one more to do the sides of trunk. Well worth the $14 dollars.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:13 PM   #4
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strangely Peel and seal runs different prices depending on what lowes you go to in this area? the two closest were out of it, had to drive an hour to get two rolls, 18.06 where I bought it but 16.42 at the places that were out of it?? weird, no? week end project, sound proofing the trunk
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:42 AM   #5
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Bought another roll last night, and did under my rear seats, and finished the rest of trunk. I did not do the lid, I really do not want to see any of it. I did do the back of license plate and inside of tag frame. When I do my door speakers I will get another roll. That would be enough for doors and rear panels. If I ever take front seats out I will proabably get a roll for under there also. That would be 4 rolls for the whole car, $60 total. Those four rolls do not even equal the weight savings of the manifolds that were switched for shorties.

Last edited by Griffintile; 06-14-2012 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:25 PM   #6
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how hard was it to do under rear seats?
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Griffintile View Post
Bought another roll last night, and did under my rear seats, and finished the rest of trunk. I did not do the lid, I really do not want to see any of it. I did do the back of license plate and inside of tag frame. When I do my door speakers I will get another roll. That would be enough for doors and rear panels. If I ever take front seats out I will proabably get a roll for under there also. That would be 4 rolls for the whole car, $60 total. Those four rolls do not even equal the weight savings of the manifolds that were switched for shorties.

ye saved some weight when I ditched the suit cases, so adding a little back to quiet road noise and the more aggressive axleback drone makes sense. will do the well and floor in the trunk and see how that works, and go from there. if I can cut the drone down a bit I will be happy but might get a wild hair and go crazy ya never know
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:36 PM   #8
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how hard was it to do under rear seats?
Not hard at all, on the convertible the bottom section of the rear seats just pops out it is held in by clips. Do the bottom front first by lifting up. Then fish seatbelt buckles through. After that just tilt it back and work the clamps. No tools needed. I guess the bottom section would be the same on coupe.
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:30 PM   #9
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thats a lot easier than i expected. I thought I was going to at least need some tools. Thanks
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