Help with rear tie rods

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by vfrider

So, the head of the beastly grade 8 bolt that was part of the bushing press sheared/popped off and flew out of my garage and onto the sidewalk across the street. The bushing for the rear upper control arm was about halfway out when that happened. Turns out a 3lb sledge and a press jacket works better than the kit did, go figure. I think I have to bite the bullet tomorrow and finally get an air compressor and some tools for the diff bushings. The hand chisel is gonna take days to get through all three diff bushings. Other than that, all the other bushings and the new rear arms are on the car.

I'm gonna be über-proud of the car and myself once it's back on the road. This is far and away the most intense install I've ever done. And even though it would've saved tons of time and (after all the tool purchases have been accounted for) money if I had taken it to a shop, there's something undeniably badassed about being able to say I do all my own work to my muscle car. The neighborhood has definitely been peering in. This is the third weekend in the past two months I've spent wrenching on/under the car. I think I'm getting a reputation lol.

[vfrider]

Done!!! Definitely a ruthless install for someone who's never done anything quite so involved before. Installing headers was a joke compared to this. However, my car's sitting on new solid subframe mounts, tie rods, trailing arms, diff bushings, RUCA and RLCA bushings, and FCA and FTA bushings. I'm gonna walk my dogs and have a beer as I admire my handiwork in the garage. Thanks again for the advice JusticePete.

[jeremywes]

Good Job! Feels good to do it yourself.

A BFH is sometimes the best tool!

[JusticePete]

And how does she drive?

[vfrider]

She feels much more sure footed over bumps and around turns. I haven't romped on it too hard, as she needs an alignment, but I can write 11s like never before hehe. It also feels a lot smoother regaining grip from a power slide. The chassis doesn't wiggle, flex, or shimmy when the tires hook back up. There isn't a hint of wheel hop anymore and the added gear noise from the diff+subframe mounts that I was cautioned of is almost imperceptible. Overall I'm thrilled with everything and would definitely do it all over again. Up next are lightweight wheels and tires. Do you know if 18" wheels can fit over CTS-V/ZL1 front brakes? That's coming after wheels. I know 19" fit, but nobody makes tires in the sizes I'm looking for.

[JusticePete]

Forgeline is the place for 5th Gen wheels.


Bush Timing, Alignment and Torque Specs

Do NOT use camber adjusting offset bolts on the Camaro



If you want to put them on your Honda or Subie it is up to you. They are not as strong as the OEM clevis bolts and are absolutely necessary on a 5th Gen Camaro. It is in the

This is the correct way to adjust front camber on the 5th Gen. One the alignment machine with the clevis bolts loose turning the camber screw tighter (Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosy) will push the knuckle away from the strut. Loosening the camber screw allows the knuckle to fall in toward the strut.



Your alignment shop may have a T.O.M.C.A.T. Air-Assisted Multiple Camber Adjustment Tool air bag. It fits between the wheel and the strut and works in the same way as the camber screw. Inflate (Righty Tighty) the bag to push the knuckle away from the strut or deflate (lefty Loosy) the bag to allow the knuckle to fall into the strut. If they don't, they have a guy that can push or pull on the wheel while they tighten it. Never, ever use those lame camber eccentric bolts on a Camaro. EVER!



Anyone that tells you different, have them call me


Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.

Alignment




Front and Rear Bolt Torque Values




NOTE: Torque specifications that read XX torque value and XX degrees are usually TTY and require replacement of the bolt, nut or both. If replacement parts are not available from GM the minimum acceptable torque will be those values stated along with a liberal application of a thread locker i.e. LocTite.

[vfrider]

Wow, thanks for those. I was definitely gonna have them time the bushings, but now I'll just print all of that out and hand it to the alignment tech.

[JusticePete]

My pleasure.