Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
dave@hennessey
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-21-2015, 11:18 PM   #29
JTruck

 
JTruck's Avatar
 
Drives: 2014 Camaro 1LT/RS
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
Roshan, you know I trust your judgement. By the same token, if someone with the stature of Kevin Brown advocates a process involved in detailing, it's difficult to dismiss it as useless.

That being said, not as JTruck would like to make it out, this is not an arguement, but rather a discussion amongst friends involving a detailing process. I have e-mailed Kevin to get his feedback and hope to get a response, not in effort to "win" a discussion, but just to find out what his reasoning and experience are with IPA. I'll post if he replies. Kevin is so "specifics" oriented, and surely does the IPA for a reason.

Knowing which one provides the best way to "prep" the surface would be of benefit to all of us who detail on this site. Again I make no intention to impune your tests. Only to get insight from Kevin's reasoning for usage of IPA.
What. I didn't even say a word yet.
__________________
Detailing is an involuntary obsession.
JTruck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2015, 07:08 AM   #30
ihaveacamaro
I like teeth.
 
ihaveacamaro's Avatar
 
Drives: #198
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Posts: 4,817
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
Roshan, you know I trust your judgement. By the same token, if someone with the stature of Kevin Brown advocates a process involved in detailing, it's difficult to dismiss it as useless.

That being said, not as JTruck would like to make it out, this is not an arguement, but rather a discussion amongst friends involving a detailing process. I have e-mailed Kevin to get his feedback and hope to get a response, not in effort to "win" a discussion, but just to find out what his reasoning and experience are with IPA. I'll post if he replies. Kevin is so "specifics" oriented, and surely does the IPA for a reason.

Knowing which one provides the best way to "prep" the surface would be of benefit to all of us who detail on this site. Again I make no intention to impune your tests. Only to get insight from Kevin's reasoning for usage of IPA.
Let me know what he says.
__________________
.



Please check out my youtube detailing channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/roshan517

"When you want to succeed as bad as you want to breathe, then you will be successful."
ihaveacamaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2015, 07:57 AM   #31
seven
 
seven's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 Camaro RS 2LT AGM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 672
This is getting annoying
__________________
2015 RS Camaro 2LT with Sunroof, Performance Exhaust, Ground Effects, Tinted Windows, LED Fog Lights(DD), CAI Cold Air Intake, Ghosted Side Markers(Showstopper), Elite Catch Can, Xpel & SunTek PPF, Replica Z28 High Wing Spoiler, ZL1 Replica Wheels(Satin Black Factory Reproductions)
seven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 10:09 PM   #32
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
Joe M 2012 2SS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 2SS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Shelby NC
Posts: 2,549
Well I haven't received a response from Kevin. So I called another well established detailer I know and he explained it like this. IPA removes waxes and sealants by dissolving them. How much does it dissolve? No way of really knowing, as how much wax/sealant is actually on the surface will vary from car to car.

Claying will remove some wax and sealant as well. How much? Again too many variables, how well was the surface prepped before application? How durable is the product used? How degraded had it become from being on the car?

Paint prep products come in two forms, abrasive and non-abrasive. They can actually lift the old wax/sealant that remains off the surface, abrasive one's will remove embedded contaminates that clay cannot.

So what's the bottom line? If your going to compound and polish the car anyway, the clay will remove some of what's left on, (Of course if your doing a conventional 2 bucket wash, a soap like chemical guys citrus used in stronger concentration will strip the old wax/sealant) and the minimum amount that's left on the surface will be removed by the compound anyway.

So prepping with either IPA or a paint prep at this point is unnecessary, as the compound will be abrading the surface and removing it anyway.

After polishing IPA can be used to remove the residue left over.

If your just doing a wash and wax/sealant without polishing, paint prep is a good idea after claying, to remove old residue, and also embedded contaminates the clay didn't get, to maximize the bond between the paint and the LSP. It's kind of like taking a piece of tape and trying to stick it to a dirty surface. It won't bond as well as it would if the surface was clean.
Joe M 2012 2SS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2015, 01:17 PM   #33
HAMBO

 
HAMBO's Avatar
 
Drives: Supercharged 2013 AGM 2SS/RS
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode View Post
Detailing day ended up being a bit of a flop. I was all ready to go and start polishing at 7am, then the individual who was going to help me out and lend me the tools/supplies didn't show up until 10 since he was hung over. At that point I had about an hour of working time with the polisher before it was too warm out and working was fruitless (no shade in the parking lot within reach of an outlet). In that time I got about half the hood done, and came to accept that I need a heavier duty polish/pad combo - I was able to get 75% of the swirls off the hood, but it took forever to do even that. Friend claimed it would be sufficient, but I now realize his definition of a clean finish is much different than mine.

Since I won't be able to revisit it for another couple weeks, I moved to some shade and applied a coat of wax to the car.

Game plan now...order up my own 7424 and all my own supplies, so I can work on this when I want to and not be relying on someone else.
I also live in an apartment and have trouble finding appropriate outlets. I ended up getting one of these and hooked it up to a portable battery I already had:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00

Obviously not a practical solution for someone planning to spend ample time detailing, but I've gotten a good couple of hours out of it, which suits my needs.
__________________
2013 AGM 2SS/RS
SLP TVS2300, Edge CAI, 3" Magnaflow catback, BC Racing BR series coilovers, HRE FF15's (20x10 square) with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's, GM STB, BMR front and rear sway bars and toe links, Prothane subframe bushings and front control arm inserts, JDP rear upper control arm bushings, Elite Engineering catch can. Tuned by Cunningham Motorsports.
1967 Bolero Red 396 SS/RS Convertible

Last edited by HAMBO; 06-25-2015 at 01:39 PM.
HAMBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2015, 06:03 PM   #34
BeastMode
 
Drives: 2011 SGM 1SS/RS M6
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: New England
Posts: 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMBO View Post
I also live in an apartment and have trouble finding appropriate outlets. I ended up getting one of these and hooked it up to a portable battery I already had:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00

Obviously not a practical solution for someone planning to spend ample time detailing, but I've gotten a good couple of hours out of it, which suits my needs.
Thanks for sending that my way, might have to look into it.

We are in a first floor unit facing the parking lot, and have several outlets on our patio that I can use (cars are only 6' off the patio). Next time around I might drive up to my parents and camp out for the day, they have a car port I can utilize.
__________________
Current: 2011 SGM Camaro 1SS/RS M6 - CAI Cold Air Kit, Janetty Tuned
BeastMode is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2015, 05:48 PM   #35
WiSSDiver

 
WiSSDiver's Avatar
 
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
Posts: 1,252
So it's been a while from me to post on here, but it does seem like an unnecessary step to IPA. Without trying "whip out" my resume, the best way I found to truly get rid of most LSP before taking the polisher back to the surface was to toss a cap full of ACP into my wash bucket. How did I know all of the LSP was gone? I could tell when I dried the car just by how the water blew off vs when there was still product on the surface. Now before I would dry off the car and after the wash, I would clay, then wash the car again, rinse then dry. That's just my routine for when I clay but before I polish and one could argue this a worthless step. Regardless, I think we agree the goal is to get as much of the old stuff off before taking the polisher to the surface, but the surface is fairly forgiving if you don't get absolutely every last inch of LSP and you'll damn sure get it with the polisher.
__________________
WiSSDiver is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.