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03-07-2016, 11:01 AM
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#1 |
 Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2ss/RS Join Date: May 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 66
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Supercharger, Turbo or Cam
Its time to do another (hopefully last) upgrade.. My end goal for my car is 500+rwhp. my options are
1. LS3 conversion, NightFury and TC.. approx $4500 The good: Dat Idle!, Cam works great with 3.91 gears, same CAI and LTs The bad: I will only get 475rwhp with that mod 2. LSA conversion, approx $5800 with conversion, CAI and tune The good: Its a supercharger!! duh. meets hp goal The Bad: have to sell old CAI, LTs will make me lose a lil boost so upgrade pulley or change headers, most expensive of the 3 3: Turbo kit (currently looking at Huronspeed) approx $5500 with tune The good: BOV hello!, sell LTs and CAI which bring kit down too $5000, meets hp goals, cheapest choice too 500rwhp The bad: hassle of selling CAI and LTs (not really that big of a deal) I'm open to other options (not nitrous).. would like to not go much over $5,000 and prefer not having used stuff unless it comes with a warranty. My car is a DD that will prolly only race stoplight to stoplight. If I only spend $5,000 or less there is a good chance I will stay married.. What Mod would you do and why?
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2010 2SS/RS L99.. ADM's LSA conversion, 2.75 Pulley, Zl1 pump, ADM FPCM, 85lb Injectors, 1 7/8 TSP LTs, no cats or resonator, Flowmaster 40s, Rotofab Cai, 3.91 gears and HpTuned.
BMR 1.4" front drop because racecar |
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03-07-2016, 11:21 AM
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#2 |
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Resident nomad
Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,765
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I'd vote for the cam. Since you're only looking to spend $5000, you shouldn't have any other "post-mod" costs/issues to address. Also, since the car is mainly a stoplight to stoplight runner, it's your best bang for the buck. Sure, it's not as upgradeable as a FI system, but you don't want to spend more $$, right......? I'm ultimately shooting for a cam package putting me @ 460-480 rwhp, and think for my purposes (street and track) it will work fine.
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Sold:
2007 Z06 2002 Viper GTS/ACR 2003 Z06 1965 FFR Cobra 2012 Nissan 370Z ADM LSA Stage II, Roto-Fab CAI, Kooks LTH/HFC's, Phastek CC, ported TB, Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler, BC Racing ER Series CO's, JPSS 32mm Black Magic rear bar, JPSS front inserts, R1 Concepts Premier slotted rotors/Goodrich SS lines, Schroth ASM harness, MGW flatstick, Brey-Krause HB, Tuned by NicD, at Cordes Performance Racing. |
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03-07-2016, 11:26 AM
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#3 |
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Master Amateur Mechanic
Drives: Victory Red 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Barrington, IL
Posts: 1,720
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I'd say cam. most reliable down the road and you COULD make 500 to the wheels with the right combination, I know some guys around here have done it.
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2011 Victory Red 22/RS
Forged 418 Ls3 from Texas Speed, LSX heads from Texas Speed, Tick Turbo cam, Jakes/PCM/Billet 4l80e, 3200 Stall converter from Circle D, DSS 750 hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, stock 3.23 gears, TSW Wheels Front 20x10 Rear 20x11.5, Fabberage Twin Turbo Supercharger Killer kit with Upgraded Turbos, Squash Dual fuel pump, Full BMR Suspension/bushings, Holly High Rise intake manifold, ID1300 Injectors, Megan Coilovers, PCM of NC plug and play trans kit. HP/TQ TBA |
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03-07-2016, 11:28 AM
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#4 |
 
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Cam for sure
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With great power comes with responsibility. However with great horsepower comes a hell of a lot of speeding tickets.
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03-07-2016, 11:35 AM
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#5 |
Drives: 2014 SS Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 369
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Def cam. keeps more money in your pocket for other upgrades, and if you tackle the work yourself the cost is only about $1500 if you upgrade everything.
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Toys:
2014 SS - TSP 235/239, CAI, LT's, 12.2 @ 115 ("SLOWLY" chipping away ET) 2000 Trans Am - Bolt-ons 13.0@110 (sold) 2009 YZF R1 - Race bike (road course)(totaled racing) 2008 YZF R6 - Race bike (road course)(still own) |
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03-07-2016, 11:37 AM
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#6 |
          
Drives: 2014 Red Hot LS3 Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,266
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This thread should have been a poll.
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03-07-2016, 11:52 AM
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#7 |
Drives: 2018 Charger SRT 392 F8 Green Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oakville Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,910
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I vote cam.
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03-07-2016, 12:10 PM
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#8 |
 
Drives: 2016 GT350 Join Date: May 2015
Location: grand rapids mi
Posts: 145
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Go cam, with other options you will have to upgrade tires and suspension to use the extra horse. Most tires that will let you use the power will not be fun for DD.
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"Life is hard, it's harder if you're stupid" John Wayne
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03-07-2016, 01:13 PM
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#9 |
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Hell Yea!
Drives: 1969 Chevelle SS & 2012 2SSRS M6 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort Shaw, MT
Posts: 241
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cheapest HP per $$$ is a TT setup.
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Life is like sex. If you are not having fun, you are doing it wrong!..
2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Crystal Red Tintcoat - AGP 54/57 Twin Turbo with Meth injection. 704 RWHP. 2015 Chevrolet 2500 LTZ 1969 Chevelle SS396 - Numbers matching |
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03-07-2016, 02:15 PM
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#10 |
Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: S. Texas
Posts: 1,817
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I vote TT or LSA I did the cam, NiteFury to be exact. While at first it was great now it's not enough. Not to mention other troubles I am having now which are costly. But that's a completely different thread. Go for the bigger power gains of stick motor with TT or SC.
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03-07-2016, 04:06 PM
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#11 |
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Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2ss/RS Join Date: May 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 66
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Looks like a lot of people say cam and I'm suprised.. So do cam and still don't get 500rwhp so I have to do another upgrade as porting everything will still probably not get me there.. So I do turbo or SC, now my cam isn't made for boost (I know it will work.. Doesn't forced induction then boosted cam make more sense?
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2010 2SS/RS L99.. ADM's LSA conversion, 2.75 Pulley, Zl1 pump, ADM FPCM, 85lb Injectors, 1 7/8 TSP LTs, no cats or resonator, Flowmaster 40s, Rotofab Cai, 3.91 gears and HpTuned.
BMR 1.4" front drop because racecar |
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03-07-2016, 04:25 PM
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#12 |
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Definitely a cam, but no need to do the LS3 conversion. Keep VVT.
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2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan,
Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs  |
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03-07-2016, 04:50 PM
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#13 |
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THE U
Drives: Camaro 1SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Northern California
Posts: 601
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VVT Cam, circle-d converter and heads could do 500 rwhp and still be a reliable DD.
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03-07-2016, 05:23 PM
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#14 |
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old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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add in the required Torque converter, and throw on some GMPP ported CNC from the factory heads at 1200$ off summit ..sell old heads as now you have hollow intake valves good for raising the rev limiter and you have to ditch the AFM lifters anyway, go with the TSP 235/239 or other cam that outperforms the "night furys" specs and you should be at or over 500 rwhp... with a LS3 I got 491/448 on a mustang dyno with CAI and headers and the 235/239 cam...... I know drop twenty hp for a L99 or more..but hey 471 add 20-30 for heads and your there......
Begin with a good base engine and remember your hypereutectic pistons are not all that for boost but can take some..... The thing with camming is to swap springs down the road in intervals due to the high lift, and if you have ever read some of my posts I use Driven racing oil and use the BR30 to break in and the ls30 after that.
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 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop |
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