How can I keep my LLT running for a long time?

[Elite Engineering]

The second outlet port is critical as it provides the evacuation suction when you are accelerating or at WOT when their is no intake manifold vacuum for NA applications, for forced induction it takes the suction from the turbo or centri head unit for in boost evacuation. Otherwise when your in boost, your allowing the crankcase to pressurize and there is no evacuation removing the contaminates that cause these engines to fail.


As for CARB certification, this is a very expensive and long process. We do intend to have our E2-X CARB certified in the future, hopefully before year end.


Drill mod is a must no matter the miles. arkentech is correct except these engines are amazingly resilient if they are cared for properly and broken in properly. It took GM 3 years to make the PCV barb change after they were notified. Marketing department makes the decisions on the oil to run, fuel to use (never 87 if you want good fuel economy and power) based on what the target demographic wants, not what is best for the engine. These engines can go the distance at high rpm, they were designed for 7k redline with great valve-train stability.


Our E2 and E2-X dual valve Catch Cans with clean side separator are the proper match as most catch cans only trap 15% or so of what causes the issues, ours trap 95% plus.

[BlazeNGlory]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

As for CARB certification, this is a very expensive and long process. We do intend to have our E2-X CARB certified in the future, hopefully before year end.

Thank you for responding and providing an update. Really appreciate it.

[wayche]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Marketing department makes the decisions on the oil to run, fuel to use (never 87 if you want good fuel economy and power) based on what the target demographic wants, not what is best for the engine.

Ok, whoa, talk to me about that for a minute. What's the minimum octane I should run, and why?

I've always been taught that it's not beneficial, and possibly harmful, to run higher octane than the manufacturer recommends. If it's just the detergents, I see plenty of places locally that run additives in their 87 pump gas (Costco, Sam's, Exxon, etc).

Is the LLT running higher compression than they say on the spec sheet, does the ECU have a super secret fuel map for higher octane, or am I just missing something?

[rtcat600man]

Originally Posted by wayche

Ok, whoa, talk to me about that for a minute. What's the minimum octane I should run, and why?

I've always been taught that it's not beneficial, and possibly harmful, to run higher octane than the manufacturer recommends. If it's just the detergents, I see plenty of places locally that run additives in their 87 pump gas (Costco, Sam's, Exxon, etc).

Is the LLT running higher compression than they say on the spec sheet, does the ECU have a super secret fuel map for higher octane, or am I just missing something?

This V6 is a high compression engine. It can run on 87 octane, the computer pulls timing to avoid spark knock. Many (including myself) are running higher octane (93 in my case) to help avoid spark knock and pulled timing.

The detergents are not passing over your valves, since no fuel goes thru the intake manifold. The best thing you can do is install a catch can to avoid the spent oil vapors from being reintroduced into your engine. remember this is not a two stroke engine.....LOL

I collect somewhere around an ounce of spent oil crap per every 1000 miles. I have had a catch can on now since early on. I figure I have helped prevent over 85 ounces of spent oil from passing over my valves.

[Elite Engineering]

RTcat600man is correct. The only reason the owner’s manual indicates 87 octane is for marketing as the target demographic is the person on a budget, so cheaper fuel, cheaper cost of the car they want, etc.

The LLT is 11.3:1 CR and the LFX 11.5:1 which prior to GDI would have required race gas or at least 100 octane. As GDI no fuel is introduced into the combustion chamber until just prior to ignition, only oil mist causes pre-ignition or detonation, so if you’re not running 93, the knock sensors detect the detonation and the ECU pulls timing advance back until it ceases. All of this takes milliseconds so the human ear rarely can hear this. When you’re not running optimum ignition timing, power and fuel economy will suffer. That said, the added cost will not save you $, it is about a wash, but far better for the engine. Also, on an old port injection engine if you ran 93 on say a 9.5:1 CR engine it would not help power as that CR cannot make use of the higher octane, but it has no ill effect. Just a waste of money.

Same with the oil. The cheaper synthetic blend the dealers/factory put in these is only due to the cost of ownership to appeal to the consumer. But this contributes to timing chain wear and other issues such as valve coking where a full synthetic prevents much of this, and of course, all GDI engines really need a good effective catchcan such as our E2 or E2-X as they cannot tolerate any oil ingestion unlike a port injection engine that could. Most catchcans only trap a small amount of these compounds and oil, E2 and E2-X trap 95% plus. GDI engines experience much more fuel washdown due to the higher CR and the fact that the fuel is introduced at 500 PSI at idle to over 2000 PSI at WOT. The dual valve Elite systems provide full time evacuation removing these before they can settle into the engine oil.

[arkentect]

Anyone know whether the 14-15 PCV barb will fit on the LLT? Would rather buy a new one than drill the existing and if they resized them properly I'll just go that direction

[Lil' Nasty]

Originally Posted by arkentect

Anyone know whether the 14-15 PCV barb will fit on the LLT? Would rather buy a new one than drill the existing and if they resized them properly I'll just go that direction

I believe they just resized them properly. Should plug and play.