General fuse/wiring question

[bottletalk]

Originally Posted by Csfessler

So when tapping into a fuse that's a 20, do you use 2 10's or 2 20's?

ummmm......what????

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Csfessler

So when tapping into a fuse that's a 20, do you use 2 10's or 2 20's? Trying to install LED's under a 2017 Camero RS. I tapped into F31 fuse under hood and worked just fine but then crazy stuff started happening a few weeks later. All of a sudden car would lock up, not start, "shift to park" would display. Coincidence? I'm not sure?

You have to find out the exact fuse tap specs on what is the max amps that can be used for the tap’s 2nd/added fuse slot and what is the combined concurrent amps of the primary fuse slot & 2nd fuse slot the tap can handle? The tap you used may not be rated for the amps going through it?

A fuse box fuse labeled 20A means a 20A fuse is in use and required to support the amp load on that circuit, you can’t use a lesser fuse in the primary slot of a fuse add-a- tap. So you can’t use two 10s and you can’t just use two 20s without first checking with the tap manufacturer or you definitely can expect problems. You should take out the fuse tap and put the original fuse back in until you know the exact fuse tap specs as not all fuse taps may use the same guage wire or are rated the same!

[dagamseh]

i need help guys i wanna installed dash camera but i need all time running which fuse should i use please thank you guys

[dagamseh]

sorry its camaro rs 2010

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by dagamseh

i need help guys i wanna installed dash camera but i need all time running which fuse should i use please thank you guys

What is the amp requirement of the dash cam?

[chevy pilot]

Dashcam are usb powered,about 1-3A.

[camguynj]

Dash fuse 23 has constant power. You really want it powered/recording all the time even when is car off ?

[marks_01]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Dash fuse 23 has constant power. You really want it powered/recording all the time even when is car off ?

If you want it "always on," even when the car is parked/off, then tap into a fuse that is always has power. You can test with a cheapo multimeter. Pick one that is "safe" in that you won't screw up your car if you blow a fuse. Stay away from the ones that are for computer modules and airbags etc. The previous poster suggested F23: that sounds low enough risk because it is just for your trunk. There's also a 30Amp one that just says "BAT" that might work. NOTE: that this may drain your battery while your car is not being driven.

If you want it to only be on when running the car, the two in positions F17 and F18 seem to be the only choices. Those are only powered when the car is in Accessory mode (or on or started).

I checked all of my SPARE ones hoping some of them would be powered. No luck; they're not wired-up at all. Someone better at wiring could probably remove the whole fuse panel and wire up some of the spare slots, but let's leave that to those who know what they're doing.

BEFORE TAPPING INTO ANY FUSE:
1. Check the amp requirements of the new thing you're trying to power. Make sure it is significantly less than the fuse you are tapping into. The F23 trunk fuse is 10Amp. If the trunk switch truly requires about 10 amps to operate, then you may overload the switch by adding anything to it. I assume there will be a margin of error and the trunk doesn't take the full 10 amp, but this is something to worry about.
2. Remove the original fuse and then use a multimeter to determine which side of the fuse is powered. One side is powered, then power goes through the fuse, out the other side, and eventually to the thing you are powering. Knowing which side is powered is important (and marked with Xs on an earlier poster's images).

There are several ways to tap into a fuse:
1. Just jam a wire in there, on the powered side! NOT RECOMMEMDED, and will NOT be covered by the fuse.
2. There are spade connectors that are basically the same thing, where you can "just jam it in there" on the powered side. Still not recommended.
3. The SAFEST way is to use what is called a "fuse tap." A fuse tap plugs into the original fuse slot and then has two new slots for 2 fuses. Put the original fuse in the first slot, closest to the fuse box. This restores the original functionality. Put a new, lower amp fuse in the 2nd slot. This will be the fuse for your new appliance.

NOTE: The fuse tap will APPEAR to work no matter which way you insert it, but there IS a right way and a wrong way. Insert with the powered side of the fuse panel along the outside of the fuse tap and that will create two separate powered lines: one with the original fuse going to the original appliances, and one with the new fuse going to your new appliance. If you put the fuse tap in the other way around, then your new appliance will go through your new fuse and then go through the original fuse... so you're really just adding on to the load of the original fuse. I was going to say that this is the "wrong" way to do it, but maybe it just depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

Check the new appliance that you are powering. Pick the lowest fuse that is still higher than the peak demand of the new appliance.

One bad thing about the SAFE fuse taps: they're a bit bulky. For us Camaro owners who want to tap into the F18/F17 fuses, we may need to get creative and trim away a tiny bit of plastic by the Trunk Relay to get them to fit!!

That is all I can think of!