Urethane filling subframe inserts

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by DietCoke

Doing mine this weekend, surprised there aren't more people doing it this way. It's cheaper then buying inserts, and does the same thing. Downside is you have to completely remove the subframe to do it.

What you are doing is a creative and should provide some benefits in terms of bush stability. +1 for you!

What you won't be able to do is increase the diameter of the control surface. That is where an aftermarket bush like ours has a significant advantage.




That said, I am now subscribed and look forward to your updates.

[caverman]

Originally Posted by axis

And we all saw how well they worked out for ya, .

LOL....agreed. But if you're looking for cost cutting solutions which is what it sounds like the OP is doing then the Energy inserts might be an option.

I will say they are better than nothing.......but that's about as far as I'm going to go. I'm skeptical on how well the void can be filled with a solution that the OP is suggesting. Not saying it can't be done or wouldn't work....just not sure how effective it would be.

I will be resolving my issues......just waiting on parts to come in and for the lift to get free.

[axis]

Originally Posted by caverman

LOL....agreed. But if you're looking for cost cutting solutions which is what it sounds like the OP is doing then the Energy inserts might be an option.

I will say they are better than nothing.......but that's about as far as I'm going to go. I'm skeptical on how well the void can be filled with a solution that the OP is suggesting. Not saying it can't be done or wouldn't work....just not sure how effective it would be.

I will be resolving my issues......just waiting on parts to come in and for the lift to get free.

I agree, just had to give you some shit over your ES bushing inserts. I do agree that what the OP posted might not be the best choice but there are compounds that will do what he intended and do a fairly good job at it. Something like JB weld in a easier to depense form would be the bomb.

[DietCoke]

JB weld won't flex, nor will it stick to rubber. Window urethane is the same stuff that's in bushings, just in an uncured form.

[hypurone]

Originally Posted by DietCoke

JB weld won't flex, nor will it stick to rubber. Window urethane is the same stuff that's in bushings, just in an uncured form.

Sorry, I call

Think about it for a minute. How can it be? Grab ANY urethane suspension bushing and feel the hardness it has (durometer ratings between 70-95 usually) then compare that to your fully cured windshield sealant. There will be a huge difference. There HAS to be, because your windshield sealant has to "adhere" and stay "flexible" (to a degree) to maintain a seal as the parts expand & contract with temperature. Plus it must absorb vibrations so as not to transmit them to the glass.

Here is some quick info I Googled for ya:

3M Superfast urethane,the stuff to glue in a windshield,in engine/transmission mounts.It costs about $11 a tube,much cheaper than even a stock replacement unit. Enjoy…..
Comments
KATYB:
you buy the tube. it looks like caulking you shoot it into the mount open areas. can be used to repair torn mounts or to stiffen none torn mounts. about 60 duro stuff when hardened so still has a good amount of give…..

And from a few diff sites where they talk about urethane bushing hardness:

"The black urethane compound is intended as a standard replacement for the OEM rubber bushings and are specified as having a durometer rating of about 70. The red urethane compound is intended for high performance applications and will have a durometer of about 95."

Here are some standard values of hardness measured on the durometer scale:
Durometers of various common materials
Material Durometer Scale

Bicycle gel seat 15-30 OO
Chewing gum 20 OO
Sorbothane 40 OO
Sorbothane 30-70 A
Rubber band 25 A
Door seal 55 A
Automotive tire tread 70 A
Soft skateboard wheel 75 A
Hydraulic O-ring 70-90 A
Hard skateboard wheel 98 A
Ebonite Rubber 100 A
Solid truck tires 50 D
Hard hat 75 D

While your plan will work, it will NOT be the same as using a bushing intended for the application...

[J-Rod6410]

Originally Posted by caverman

LOL....agreed. But if you're looking for cost cutting solutions which is what it sounds like the OP is doing then the Energy inserts might be an option.

I will say they are better than nothing.......but that's about as far as I'm going to go. I'm skeptical on how well the void can be filled with a solution that the OP is suggesting. Not saying it can't be done or wouldn't work....just not sure how effective it would be.

I will be resolving my issues......just waiting on parts to come in and for the lift to get free.

So what was the problem with the energy suspension inserts Just wondering because i was planning on ordering them also.

Thanks

[Mr Twisty]

The factory bushings I would guess are ~80 durometer...

JB weld idea sounds interesting

Pedders inserts... no muss, no fuss, no issues.

[bigsquirrel]

I found the pedders bushing insert install very simple, sways and springs took me way longer. Install concerns should not be a reason to hold off.

[Synner]

Originally Posted by jrrod6410

So what was the problem with the energy suspension inserts Just wondering because i was planning on ordering them also.

Thanks

Check out this thread.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134107

I'll be trying out the full bushings shortly if Fedex can ever find my package in their friggin warehouse.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Synner

Check out this thread.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134107

I'll be trying out the full bushings shortly if Fedex can ever find my package in their friggin warehouse.

Sometimes things happen for a reason

[caverman]

Originally Posted by jrrod6410

So what was the problem with the energy suspension inserts Just wondering because i was planning on ordering them also.

Thanks

Look at post #114
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=134107&page=5

Personally....I'm not recommending them any more. They are inexpensive (I got mine for $100) but I'll tell you they are a PITA to get that front top bushing in. After working with them and then looking at the design differnces between Energy vs Pedders I like the Pedders design by far. You can read a little more on that thread for some of my thoughts.

I would tell you to hold off for just a little bit before buying them. I've got a set of Pedders inserts coming and I'm going to be comparing them not only in install process but also in the way it feels to the touch. I was not impressed with how spongey the Energy inserts felt to me. They are just inserts and not a whole bushing so that may not be as important but looking at the design of Pedders as well I like it better.

It will be a week from Sun or Mon before the lift is free and I can do the install so you'll have to wait just a little but if you want to see real world comparison between the two you'll have to give me a little time. I don't think anyone has put them side by side like I'm going to be doing. I'm just hoping I can show any differences with video or pics.

BTW: The Stage 1 Street pkg from Wretched Motorsports looks like the way to go if you do go with Pedders. Cradle Inserts and Radius Rod inserts.....that's what I'll be adding.

Sorry OP......I didn't mean for your thread to get side tracked. If anyone else wants info on the Energy inserts please PM and/or wait for my next thread. Let's try to get the subject back on track with the OP's process.

[rdono]

Its your time but what is 160 bucks when it comes to suspension parts. Go Pedders and you will feel the difference, besides the fact that they will last much longer.

[Mach]

For the guys questioning the strength and durability of this 3m urethane. Have you guys ever used this product? I have and that stuff is some of the toughest and hardest substance know to man.

I applaud the original poster for thinking outside the box. This mod will save a ton of money over buying bushings. The only drawback is when filling big voids, this stuff needs days to cure completely.

[hypurone]

Originally Posted by Mach

For the guys questioning the strength and durability of this 3m urethane. Have you guys ever used this product? I have and that stuff is some of the toughest and hardest substance know to man.

Read post #19. I looked up the durometer rating for this exact product (60) and compared to actual suspension components (urethane w/ durometer ranges of 70-95), I don't see how you can state the above...