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Old 06-02-2016, 01:34 PM   #1
Deez-zl1
 
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anyone installed the fuel pump voltage booster

by reading these forums, it looks like many are installing this fuel pump voltage booster. I ordered it from ted at jannetty racing. he is a lot of help and says its not a bad job. I cant find any install links on this forum. any advise is appreciatted
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:49 PM   #2
KaBoom1701
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I have.

Did it a few weeks ago.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:42 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
I have.

Did it a few weeks ago.
How did the install go ? And how does it perform ?
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:43 PM   #4
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Thanx a bunch for this install link, it will help a bunch
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:03 PM   #5
E. Bryant
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Here is a good write up. It's not a bad job, just takes time.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...&highlight=jms
Yes, this is a good write-up. A couple of thoughts:

1) The driver's seat does not need to be removed. I don't know if I saved any time by working around the seat, but I did manage to route the harness through the console with the seat in place.

2) I do not recommend using the "fuse socket" method; I tried this, and was not happy whatsoever with the retention of the device in the factory fuse block (it is extremely easy to dislodge it). The splice-in method is much more robust IMO, and it's still easy to bypass the BAP if necessary by pulling the BAS fuse and re-inserting the standard FPCM fuse into its original location.
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:41 AM   #6
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Thank you gentlemen for helping out our fellow ZL-1 owner.
Ted.
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:27 AM   #7
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I will be doing this soon as well. Let me know how it goes, Deez-zl1!
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E. Bryant View Post
Yes, this is a good write-up. A couple of thoughts:

1) The driver's seat does not need to be removed. I don't know if I saved any time by working around the seat, but I did manage to route the harness through the console with the seat in place.

2) I do not recommend using the "fuse socket" method; I tried this, and was not happy whatsoever with the retention of the device in the factory fuse block (it is extremely easy to dislodge it). The splice-in method is much more robust IMO, and it's still easy to bypass the BAP if necessary by pulling the BAS fuse and re-inserting the standard FPCM fuse into its original location.
Good points and I agree on both of them. I just removed the side and back panel on the center console and fished the connector under the carpet through the side of the console. I also used the splice method with the included connectors.
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deez-zl1 View Post
How did the install go ? And how does it perform ?
Install took a while as I took my time. Ted @ JRE helped a ton with providing a wiring diagram. I called JMS had purchased a throttle switch as I didn't like the hobs switch set up.

Overall it works great and the car runs like a scared cat out of hell. lol
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
Install took a while as I took my time. Ted @ JRE helped a ton with providing a wiring diagram. I called JMS had purchased a throttle switch as I didn't like the hobs switch set up.

Overall it works great and the car runs like a scared cat out of hell. lol
I would much rather have the throttle switch as well. I thought that was the default setup for this system though...?
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:27 AM   #11
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Does anyone have a photo on where they sliced in close to the FPCM? Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-04-2016, 07:11 AM   #12
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Does anyone have a photo on where they sliced in close to the FPCM? Thanks in advance.
About 2-3 inches from the FPCM is best.

You will splice in to the red/white wire.
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Old 06-04-2016, 12:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Does anyone have a photo on where they sliced in close to the FPCM? Thanks in advance.
I spliced into the FPCM +12V lead where it exits from the trunk-mounted fuse block.
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:28 AM   #14
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Thanks Ted. Your commitment to this site and ZL1s is absolutely amazing, and appreciated!
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