Having Difficulty Hardwiring Dashcam - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

GhostOutlaw · 04-08-2018, 03:54 PM

So I've had a dashcam I've been trying to hardwire for too long now.

This is my hardware:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...IHGP69UFE&th=1

It's a 2011 V6.

The issue I'm having is there are only 2 fuses (in the entire car?) that are hot only when in accessory mode. Everything else is always hot. I don't want the dashcam killing the battery, I have enough battery trouble as is in the cold.

Of these 2 fuses, both have massive relays next to them, making said hardware impossible to fit in place. (Instrument panel box, F17 and F18).

Is there some workaround for this? Am I missing something plain as day here? (likely).

I'm under the impression this job is a no brainer and requires no wire cutting or soldering, why do I feel like that's my only option?

murf24 · 04-08-2018, 07:41 PM

You are not missing anything obvious. I had this same issue. My solution was to extend the contacts on the adapter by cutting up a fuse and soldering the contacts from the fuse to the adapter. If this doesn't seem to work in your case, I do know there is switched power under the console that runs back to feed the USB port. You could tap into that.

GhostOutlaw · 04-08-2018, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murf24

You are not missing anything obvious. I had this same issue. My solution was to extend the contacts on the adapter by cutting up a fuse and soldering the contacts from the fuse to the adapter. If this doesn't seem to work in your case, I do know there is switched power under the console that runs back to feed the USB port. You could tap into that.

Define tap in?

Clarkstar · 04-08-2018, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GhostOutlaw

Define tap in?

Cut the wire in half... then attach the power from your cam to one half... then reconnect the wires you cut with a butt connector.

GhostOutlaw · 04-08-2018, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clarkstar

Cut the wire in half... then attach the power from your cam to one half... then reconnect the wires you cut with a butt connector.

Wanted to avoid, if possible, cutting in. Was hoping there was just a lower profile wire tap or another fuse I could use.

All the trunk fuses are 'always hot' and the 'spares' aren't actually functional spares, they're just empty housings.

Black_SS10 · 04-08-2018, 08:58 PM

I used a small add a fuse adapter from Advanced auto to hardwire my radar/laser detector. It fit, very tight though.

13BRM2SSRS · 04-08-2018, 09:49 PM

Instrument panel fuse block F17 and F18 are 20amp fuses for the 12v power outlets and are only hot when ignition is on. Use an add a circuit to tap one of these fuses. Much easier and better than hacking wires. Hope this helps!

GhostOutlaw · 04-08-2018, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 13BRM2SSRS

Instrument panel fuse block F17 and F18 are 20amp fuses for the 12v power outlets and are only hot when ignition is on. Use an add a circuit to tap one of these fuses. Much easier and better than hacking wires. Hope this helps!

I explained exactly why this isn’t working in my original post.

GhostOutlaw · 04-08-2018, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

I used a small add a fuse adapter from Advanced auto to hardwire my radar/laser detector. It fit, very tight though.

Is the add a fuse you used the same one I linked? Or do you have a smaller profile unit?

CamaroFred · 04-08-2018, 11:06 PM

Your best shot is to solder into the power point wires.

Butt connectors are quick and dirty. They don't last long. Soldering can outlast the vehicle.

You don't have to cut the wires. Use a manual wire stripper to cut through the insulation at two places ~1/2 inch apart. If you don't have a wire stripper you can use an Exacto knife to cut a circumference in the insulation.
Take the Exacto knife to slice the insulation between the two points and peel it off.
Do not line up the stripped insulation on the black and red wires. Offset them so they won't come in contact with each other if (when) the electrical tape you cover them with wears through.
Cut one wire shorter than the other to match the offset you have on the stripped portion of the wires.
Tin the wires. Wrap the hot around the red and complete the solder. Do the same with the black. Cover them with electrical tape.

Voila! You now have a connection that will last until the wires rot.

If you are really dead set against soldering there are cable clamps available, but they are bulky and not cheap. Insulating them is a challenge.

One consolation to soldering on the wires to the power point is that a replacement power point can be purchased and installed and no one will ever know the wiring had been modified.

GhostOutlaw · 04-08-2018, 11:41 PM

You can expect some PMs, lol.

CamaroFred · 04-09-2018, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GhostOutlaw

You can expect some PMs, lol.

Okay.

ZED SLED · 04-09-2018, 06:39 AM

The add a fuse fits in one of the power adapter fuse spots, but not the other one. Can't remember if it was F17 or F18. My radar detector was hardwired in both my '10 SS and '13 ZL1 this way.

Black_SS10 · 04-09-2018, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GhostOutlaw

Is the add a fuse you used the same one I linked? Or do you have a smaller profile unit?

That's the same one I used. It will fit, it is just tight. You almost have to force it in.

04-08-2018, 03:54 PM	#1
GhostOutlaw Drives: Black 2011 2LT/RS Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: NJ Posts: 282	Having Difficulty Hardwiring Dashcam So I've had a dashcam I've been trying to hardwire for too long now. This is my hardware: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...IHGP69UFE&th=1 It's a 2011 V6. The issue I'm having is there are only 2 fuses (in the entire car?) that are hot only when in accessory mode. Everything else is always hot. I don't want the dashcam killing the battery, I have enough battery trouble as is in the cold. Of these 2 fuses, both have massive relays next to them, making said hardware impossible to fit in place. (Instrument panel box, F17 and F18). Is there some workaround for this? Am I missing something plain as day here? (likely). I'm under the impression this job is a no brainer and requires no wire cutting or soldering, why do I feel like that's my only option?

04-08-2018, 08:58 PM	#6
Black_SS10 SomeguyK Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: FL Posts: 1,947	I used a small add a fuse adapter from Advanced auto to hardwire my radar/laser detector. It fit, very tight though. __________________ TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII More to come.

04-08-2018, 09:49 PM	#7
13BRM2SSRS Drives: 13 Camaro 2SS Vert L99 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 632 View My Garage	Instrument panel fuse block F17 and F18 are 20amp fuses for the 12v power outlets and are only hot when ignition is on. Use an add a circuit to tap one of these fuses. Much easier and better than hacking wires. Hope this helps! __________________ Black GFX / Dynatech Supermaxx LT Headers / FR Black Chrome ZL1 Replicas 275/315 / RDP Tune / CAI / VMAX TB / MBRP SS Catback / Gtechniq CSL & EXOV3 / VTC / RX Catch Can / Valentine 1 / Halo DRL / LED Fogs

04-08-2018, 11:06 PM	#10
CamaroFred Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 2,998	Your best shot is to solder into the power point wires. Butt connectors are quick and dirty. They don't last long. Soldering can outlast the vehicle. You don't have to cut the wires. Use a manual wire stripper to cut through the insulation at two places ~1/2 inch apart. If you don't have a wire stripper you can use an Exacto knife to cut a circumference in the insulation. Take the Exacto knife to slice the insulation between the two points and peel it off. Do not line up the stripped insulation on the black and red wires. Offset them so they won't come in contact with each other if (when) the electrical tape you cover them with wears through. Cut one wire shorter than the other to match the offset you have on the stripped portion of the wires. Tin the wires. Wrap the hot around the red and complete the solder. Do the same with the black. Cover them with electrical tape. Voila! You now have a connection that will last until the wires rot. If you are really dead set against soldering there are cable clamps available, but they are bulky and not cheap. Insulating them is a challenge. One consolation to soldering on the wires to the power point is that a replacement power point can be purchased and installed and no one will ever know the wiring had been modified. __________________ 2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM

04-09-2018, 06:39 AM	#13
ZED SLED Drives: 2017 Mosaic Bk ZL1 M6 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: South of Raleigh, NC Posts: 9,479 View My Garage	The add a fuse fits in one of the power adapter fuse spots, but not the other one. Can't remember if it was F17 or F18. My radar detector was hardwired in both my '10 SS and '13 ZL1 this way. __________________

04-08-2018, 07:41 PM	#2
murf24 Drives: 2012 RS Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 14 View My Garage	You are not missing anything obvious. I had this same issue. My solution was to extend the contacts on the adapter by cutting up a fuse and soldering the contacts from the fuse to the adapter. If this doesn't seem to work in your case, I do know there is switched power under the console that runs back to feed the USB port. You could tap into that.

04-08-2018, 11:41 PM	#11
GhostOutlaw Drives: Black 2011 2LT/RS Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: NJ Posts: 282	You can expect some PMs, lol.