rear sway bar adjustment advice?

[SS>GT]

can anyone help with where i should set my rear sway bar? I bought the Spohn tourning package, so the front is non adjustable, rear is. There are 3 holes to choose from on the rear, should i go to the stiffest setting or the softest? I want something that is very firmly planted, but ive heard the stiffest setting might cause the rear end to give out.

Any advice appreciated! Also, yes i bought the endlinks as well

[caverman]

Go with the firmest setting. However, I'm betting you're not going to feel any "firmness" either way. You need to add some cradle bushings (or inserts) get that.

[SS>GT]

thanks for the input! ill take a look into cradle bushings now

[Austin45]

The rear end going out is only a problem on the V6 I believe. When I did mine I had to buy the SS links and it has been fine.

[caverman]

Originally Posted by SS>GT

thanks for the input! ill take a look into cradle bushings now

With what you have done a set of cradle bushing inserts should work fine. Look at Pedders Street Z that includes the Radius Rod inserts as well.

Do a search for more info but here is my thread I did with some basics.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...hlight=pedders

[SS>GT]

awesome write up on that post caverman! how easy of an install are the pedders? im looking to do it on jacks

[caverman]

Originally Posted by SS>GT

awesome write up on that post caverman! how easy of an install are the pedders? im looking to do it on jacks

I don't think it would be that hard but I've done them before. The first time is always the hardest. Getting the washer hats off is probably one of the harder things about it. Do one side at at time.....take two cradle bolts completely out on one side and then loosen the other side to about 90% out. Then a pry bar to help give you just a little extra to get the top insert under the alignment pin and you're all good. Having an extra hand to put the bushing tops in while you are prying the extra space for the insert always helps. The bolts are supposed to be torqued down to something like 120 ft lbs but that's near impossible to do with a hand torque wrench. Just clean off the bolts with a wire brush, add a little blue locktite, and torque to 80 ft lbs or so and you should be good.

There are a few tricks to getting those washer hats off but I found using the two hammer method to be pretty easy...3 or 4 good blows of the hammer and the come right off. Just keep an eye out for where the go flying when they do come off. I've taken the cradle down like that good hand full of times so it's super easy for me now. I just did my toe rods (which requires the cradle to be lowered) and the FE4 conversion a few weeks ago. If memory serves me right it's a 24mm socket you'll need.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by SS>GT

can anyone help with where i should set my rear sway bar? I bought the Spohn tourning package, so the front is non adjustable, rear is. There are 3 holes to choose from on the rear, should i go to the stiffest setting or the softest? I want something that is very firmly planted, but ive heard the stiffest setting might cause the rear end to give out.

Any advice appreciated! Also, yes i bought the endlinks as well

If you have to ask, you should be starting at the softest rear bar setting and stiffening the settings up from there - after driving it a while and paying attention to how it feels and behaves.

The same setting that works for anybody else may not be appropriate for you. This does not necessarily imply anything about relative skill or experience levels.

Even if you have a little experience tinkering with suspensions I strongly suggest not going any stiffer than the mid-firm positions.

Make sure that your driving with each setting you try includes some wet weather. This can be your critical condition.

If you're leaving Stabilitrak 'on' during your test drive periods, try to note if/how often it activates. If you're getting into ST very often, consider softening the rear bar.


Norm

[SS>GT]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

If you have to ask, you should be starting at the softest rear bar setting and stiffening the settings up from there - after driving it a while and paying attention to how it feels and behaves.

The same setting that works for anybody else may not be appropriate for you. This does not necessarily imply anything about relative skill or experience levels.

Even if you have a little experience tinkering with suspensions I strongly suggest not going any stiffer than the mid-firm positions.

Make sure that your driving with each setting you try includes some wet weather. This can be your critical condition.

If you're leaving Stabilitrak 'on' during your test drive periods, try to note if/how often it activates. If you're getting into ST very often, consider softening the rear bar.


Norm

This is actually very good advice! I do alot of canyon driving for fun, so i can definitely take the car for a good spin. however, never having messed with the sway bars im not sure how much a difference they'll make. I know ill get rid of understeer, however i'm pretty sure in the stiffest setting ill be prone to the car letting the rear go.

since im planning to get a maggie soon, i dont want that to happen that easily haha

[Nightmare2012]

Im no expert but isn't the stiffest setting mainly for drag racing purposes?

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Nightmare2012

Im no expert but isn't the stiffest setting mainly for drag racing purposes?

A stiffer setting in the rear versus the front gets rid of understeer and may get you some oversteer

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Nightmare2012

Im no expert but isn't the stiffest setting mainly for drag racing purposes?

For drag racing a stick axle car, yes. The short story is that a rear sta-bar "re-plants" the right-rear by dragging the engine torque reaction rearward to push it down. It also lifts a bit of load back off the left-rear and you end up with closer to equal tire loadings, slightly more total forward bite, and a straighter launch. Doesn't work if you're running ladder bars, though.

An IRS car isn't going to benefit all that much because the driveshaft torque is taken out directly to the chassis at the pumpkin and does not affect the rear tire loadings. That means that the left-rear doesn't get planted and the right-rear doesn't go light like they do with a stick axle. And the engine torque reaction opposes the driveshaft torque directly without involving the suspension at all.


Norm