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Old 03-11-2010, 06:58 PM   #1
CamaroCorvetteFerrari
 
Drives: 2010 Chevrolet Camaro 1LT RS
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Washing, Covering, and waxing questions

Hello All,

This is my first big purchase of a brand new black 2010 Chevrolet Camaro 1LT RS edition. It is gorgeous and even more beautiful than the Corvette, which was my dream car growing up (along with Ferraris)(hence, the username). I picked it up Tuesday night and the car came in from the factory Monday morning, with 9 miles on the odometer (they had to store it for a day).

I have some questions and I do apologize if I am not following proper etiquette and protocol here. I would kindly appreciate to be steered in the right direction, if I am.

Onto the questions:

Washing
Here on Long Island, there's still rock and sand left over from the winter snowstorms and I have already some dirt on the rear fenders because I did not have mud flaps installed (will get them Saturday). It is supposed to rain all weekend and I am already stressing over the paint!

How often are you supposed to wash the car? I wanted to take it to an automated car wash where the machine washes and dries it; I'm not crazy about the hand wash places using rags to wipe down my black camaro. I'd rather go to a detailing place I heard of New Hyde Park that is supposed to be excellent, but they're more for waxing (more on that later).

When washing, what are the optimal weather conditions and what should the temperature of the water be? I ask because if I were to wash it myself, I don't want the paint to chip. I heard if it is hot outside (think summer) and you use cold water, it could chip the paint. If that is true, then using a hose would be out and I'd need a bucket of hot water.

What kind of cleaning products should one use if home washed?

Waxing
2) How often are you supposed to wax the camaro? What about in summer? I would think every 3 months but that is why I am posing the question. And what kind of wax is recommended? The wax they use at the automated car washes seem shifty to me; so, I'd rather do it myself or goto a professional detailing place.

Car Cover
3) What kind of car cover is recommended? Can you use a generic car over at AutoZone or is it better to use a custom fit one, presumably if it is offered as a dealer option? I bought one today at Autozone and I think I may return it. I practically gave up putting it on. I'd try to get a handle on it, but then part of it would drag on the driveway and I don't want to put anything on the car that has touched the driveway. Maybe there's an easy way to do it, I don't know, or the custom made ones are a lot easier to put on?? Maybe the dealer can help me put it on, I hope.


Lastly, did want to mention that the sales guy at Atlantic Chevrolet (where I bought my camaro) mentioned that GM is coming in next week to do a presentation on a dealer option that would preserve the paint. So, he's gonna get back to me and let me know the details on that.

I'm sorry for the long post.

Thank you in advance.

Jeff
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:21 PM   #2
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You, my friend, need a serious dose of TheJunkman! Here is a good place to start:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59171

I use Adam's products from Adamspolishes.com
They are VERY easy to use even for detailing n00bs.

I recommend California Car Cover. You can go to their site and pick the cover that is right for how you'll store your car (outside vs in a garage).

Welcome to the forums!
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:30 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Darth_Emma View Post
You, my friend, need a serious dose of TheJunkman! Here is a good place to start:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59171

I use Adam's products from Adamspolishes.com
They are VERY easy to use even for detailing n00bs.

I recommend California Car Cover. You can go to their site and pick the cover that is right for how you'll store your car (outside vs in a garage).

Welcome to the forums!

+1
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:52 PM   #4
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Thanks boys and girls! For the OP, here's a link with even more information that you will want to check out.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:58 PM   #5
CamaroCorvetteFerrari
 
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Thank you, thank you.

Junkman, the link does not work. Could you please try again? I would like to read up on more information!

Thank you again.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:06 PM   #6
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junkman is taking care of you,so i don't need to get in to this.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:11 PM   #7
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Jeff,
Congrats on the Camaro and welcome.
I'll give you several answers.....I show three different vehicles and finish quality is a point maker or breaker.

Please...do not run, a black car in particular, through a machine wash facility.
You will have swirl marks on swirl marks.
Actually, every color will get micro scratches from a machine wash but black shows the damage.
The hand wash outfits aren't much better.
They are using mitts loaded with the last cars grit and scrubbing it into your finish.

So, obviously I recommend home washing.
First rule is rinse/rinse/rinse some more, and only do this in the shade.
You are trying to flush as much debris off the finish as possible before you put a mitt on it.
Use a formal car wash soap, such as Simonize self drying.
Detergents (dish) are designed to remove grease from plates.....it removes wax from paint just as effectively.
Wash from the top down, rinse, panel by panel (roof-glass-rear deck-hood-and then each fender and door, but only halfway down) rinse some more.
Flush your mitt, dump your soapy water and refill with fresh water and soap.
You are doing this to prevent scratching by picking up grit in your mitt from the soiled water.
Wet it down again and finish the lower areas that were yet to be cleaned.
Now, with the nozzle removed from the hose, flood the entire car from the top down to promote sheeting.
The self drying washes will tend to draw all the water off the finish with exception to low spots.
You are trying to minimize the need for drying as drying scratches paint far more than washing.
I recommend you buy a package of micro-fiber towels from Sams Club or the like.
25 towels for about 15 bucks.
You will use these for lightly drying the low spots and wiping the glass.
Some folks wash them, but if you are serious about finish maintainence the towels should be considered a consumable.
You can use them several times for drying.....usually only two, sometimes three to get all the low spots, but remember to let as much water sheet off as possible.
Once dry (silly me, buy this in advance) lightly mist a finish enhancer like Meguires speed shine to the finish and wipe off with a clean micro-fiber or two.
You didn't ask but always wash the wheels with a seperate bucket, mitt and spoke cleaner.
You do not want to chance the metallic brake dust getting on the finish due to intermixing.
In writing, this sounds difficult.....in doing, once you establish a step one/step two etc. process, it is fast and enjoyable....almost therapudic.
Don't worry about shocking the paint as long as you are at hose outlet temperature in the shade....regardless of outside temp.
Regarding washing ambient temperature.....as long as it is above freezing and you can tolerate it, the car won't care.
Regarding machine or pressure washing to 'get the salt off' in the winter.
Don't bother....the salt has no effect on paint, thats why they painted it.
AND...most, if not all, carwashes, regardless of sit in and it sprays the car or pull through recycle their water.
It is filtered but you can't remove salt and you end end up pressure washing the car with a very high saline content water.

Wax....I'm not going to discuss claying a finish....just wax.
It is true that the darker the color, the quicker the wax will get burned off.
If a dark finish is outside, in the sun a lot (as opposed to say a indoor parking facility) the wax is about gone in 30 days.
Light colors, like white, silver often can hold out up to 90 days, but thats about it.
Wax selection....I recommend any brand name wax....not a cleaner wax.
I have had good success with Meguires YELLOW liquid.
You apply it in the shade in straight lines with NO arm pressure.
Wipe it on as though you are waxing furniture and use a micro-fiber towel to apply.
Allow it to haze a bit, a good wax will not dry like that turtle wax stuff (icky) and remove it using another clean micro-fiber.
You likely will be able to remove all wax you apply with only two towels....they work well.

This is just a basic, albiet long winded description of finish maintainence more geared for the 'I want to drive it some' crowd.

Regarding micro-fiber towels...if you get the ones from Sams, try to buy the blue ones.
They have the best knapp for this use.

One my black 96 Impala, I use a wax called Pinnicle and it is configured for black.
This runs a bit over 90.00 a bottle.
I also use knapp graded micro-fiber towels. These are sourced from Greohs (SP?)
I'm pointing out the fact I take finish maintainence seriously and am happy to help anyone with questions.

Have fun,
Rob
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroCorvetteFerrari View Post
Thank you, thank you.

Junkman, the link does not work. Could you please try again? I would like to read up on more information!

Thank you again.
Do this. Click on my name and choose to see my profile page. On the right-hand side of the page (just below my avatar), click the option to show all statistics. Then on the left hand side of the page, choose "Find all threads started by Junkman2008". That page will contain all my write-ups.

The link works for me. That's odd...
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Do this. Click on my name and choose to see my profile page. On the right-hand side of the page (just below my avatar), click the option to show all statistics. Then on the left hand side of the page, choose "Find all threads started by Junkman2008". That page will contain all my write-ups.

The link works for me. That's odd...
Aren't you the IT guy too AJ?
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:27 PM   #10
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Aren't you the IT guy too AJ?
I am, but it's after hours and I have already turned my brain off!
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:01 PM   #11
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I am, but it's after hours and I have already turned my brain off!
No more detailing advice then - your gunna lead everyone to swirl marks and scratches!
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroCorvetteFerrari View Post
Hello All,

This is my first big purchase of a brand new black 2010 Chevrolet Camaro 1LT RS edition. It is gorgeous and even more beautiful than the Corvette, which was my dream car growing up (along with Ferraris)(hence, the username). I picked it up Tuesday night and the car came in from the factory Monday morning, with 9 miles on the odometer (they had to store it for a day).

I have some questions and I do apologize if I am not following proper etiquette and protocol here. I would kindly appreciate to be steered in the right direction, if I am.

Onto the questions:

Washing
Here on Long Island, there's still rock and sand left over from the winter snowstorms and I have already some dirt on the rear fenders because I did not have mud flaps installed (will get them Saturday). It is supposed to rain all weekend and I am already stressing over the paint!

How often are you supposed to wash the car? I wanted to take it to an automated car wash where the machine washes and dries it; I'm not crazy about the hand wash places using rags to wipe down my black camaro. I'd rather go to a detailing place I heard of New Hyde Park that is supposed to be excellent, but they're more for waxing (more on that later).

When washing, what are the optimal weather conditions and what should the temperature of the water be? I ask because if I were to wash it myself, I don't want the paint to chip. I heard if it is hot outside (think summer) and you use cold water, it could chip the paint. If that is true, then using a hose would be out and I'd need a bucket of hot water.

What kind of cleaning products should one use if home washed?

Waxing
2) How often are you supposed to wax the camaro? What about in summer? I would think every 3 months but that is why I am posing the question. And what kind of wax is recommended? The wax they use at the automated car washes seem shifty to me; so, I'd rather do it myself or goto a professional detailing place.

Car Cover
3) What kind of car cover is recommended? Can you use a generic car over at AutoZone or is it better to use a custom fit one, presumably if it is offered as a dealer option? I bought one today at Autozone and I think I may return it. I practically gave up putting it on. I'd try to get a handle on it, but then part of it would drag on the driveway and I don't want to put anything on the car that has touched the driveway. Maybe there's an easy way to do it, I don't know, or the custom made ones are a lot easier to put on?? Maybe the dealer can help me put it on, I hope.


Lastly, did want to mention that the sales guy at Atlantic Chevrolet (where I bought my camaro) mentioned that GM is coming in next week to do a presentation on a dealer option that would preserve the paint. So, he's gonna get back to me and let me know the details on that.

I'm sorry for the long post.

Thank you in advance.

Jeff
one word of caution about car covers!..i see you live in a colder climate!..be very careful about covering the car OUTSIDE in cold weather!..if you get a snowstorm.you may have a problem with the cover sticking to the paint on the car,especially in very cold weather!..two things will happen!..one!..the cover will tear as you try to take it off,or worse!..your paint will come off with the cover!..the only solution in this instance is to start the car and let it warm up,or allow for the air temperature to get warmer before taking the cover off,or 3!..dont put it on at all!..be VERY careful with this!
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Old 03-11-2010, 11:00 PM   #13
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Drives: 2010 Chevrolet Camaro 1LT RS
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Wow, thank you all very much!!! You are all so kind, warm, and friendly; it is infectious, as Zoidberg from Futurama might say.

If I didn't come here, I could've really made some (expensive) mistakes.

Okay, so car cover in winter and cold climate = no, no. Car cover in warm climate = yes. Could I put on the car cover if it's cold and raining? Moreover, it sounds like a car cover in cold climate will make it stick. For example, let's say I'm going to work in the morning, it's cold and there's that cold mist that has formed on the car overnight. In this situation, if I had the cover, would that cold mist have a chance to form? Or, is a car cover in colder climate warning strictly related to snow?

Again, many thanks!
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Old 03-12-2010, 05:10 AM   #14
Junkman2008
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Some of the main "rules of thumb" when talking about car covers are really nothing more than common sense. As a sports car owner myself, this is something that has been talked about to death on our forums as well. Here's what I tell people based on my perspective of protecting the paint and purchasing the exact cover that fits your needs.



1. All car covers are NOT the same.

Duh, you say! You get what you pay for, but the price of the cover IS NOT what should totally influence your decision. Do the research. There is cutting edge technology out today that makes some covers much better than others. With that said, the best cover in the world may not be the best cover for you. You don't want to pay for technology that you will not be using. Ask yourself the following, "Is it for indoor storage only, occasional outdoor use, everyday use, long term storage?" Don't pay for an indoor cover with dust repellent technology and UV protection if your garage has no windows. UV damage is not a concern for you. Pay only for what you need. You can get car covers today as customized as the car you just bought.


2. Buy the cover that fits your needs.

A superb indoor cover is made exactly for that use. A superb outdoor cover is made exactly for that use. Don't take a cover made for the garage and use it outdoors. Don't take a cover that is made for outdoors and sunshine only, and use it in the rain or snow. Covers are now customized for the climates that people live in and thus, an excellent outdoor cover for someone in Boston, MA may not be suitable as an outdoor cover for someone living in Tuscon, AZ. A cover for a car near the ocean may not be ideal for someone in Fargo, ND. Buy the correct cover for not only the indoor/outdoor use it will see, but the climate that you will be exposing it to.

Also, understand the wording that describes your car cover's purpose. Water repellent is NOT the same thing as water proof. A cheap car cover will be water proof. It will not allow water to get to your car, but it will also trap moisture under the cover. As you all know, this can cause stuff to rust and create mold and mildew, which will drastically kill the value of your car and make it a hell hole to drive for those of you with allergies (like me). A water repellent cover will keep water off the car, but still allow the cover to breath. These covers understandably cost more, but you get what you pay for in this instance.

Another thing that people never talk about is drying time. If you are on the road and it has rained, you want to have a cover that dries as quick as possible so that you are not sticking a wet cover into the trunk of your car. Again, the last thing you want to deal with is mold and mildew. Various covers have different drying times and this can be a very important consideration if you are on the road.


3. Care for your cover - it's a science.

I bought a gorgeous blanket for my king sized bed once that cost almost $200. I didn't find out until weeks later that it could only be dry cleaned instead of washed. Had I known that, I might not have bought it. You can imagine what it cost to dry clean a king sized, embroidered blanket.

This is something that you need to consider when purchasing your cover. The cleaning instructions are very explicit and not following them can lead to the failure of your car cover, as well as you having your cover's warranty voided. If you are not going to be able to care for your cover correctly, maybe that's not the cover for you. Better yet, ensure that you can care for the cover you choose to purchase.


4. Warranties - they vary from cover to cover and manufacturers.

You will quickly find out that a quality cover will have a much better warranty than a cheap one. There is a reason you are spending that kind of money. Let your fingers do the walking and call the manufacturer. Have them not only explain what is covered with their warranty, have them also point you to the location on the web where this information is posted because hey, anyone can say anything but writing hold up in court. If it is not posted, have them email you a copy of their warranty. Steer clear of anyone who can't or is not willing to do so.


5. Treat your cover as you do your paint.

I use my California Duster to wipe my cover down BEFORE I remove it. After all, all that dust that would have been sitting on your car is now sitting on your cover. My cover allows for that and you should check with your cover's manufacturer to see if you can do the same. You do not want to constantly fold that dirt up in the cover because that side of the cover could come in contact with the car's paint. At that point, it's a big ol' sheet of super light sandpaper. Not a good scenario. It also keeps the cover clean as enough dirt can cause a cover to fail. This is especially true with covers that "breath".

You don't stack stuff on top of your car's paint so don't make this a practice with your car cover either. Just because your car is covered doesn't mean you can now loose your mind and start treating it like it is wearing body armor.


When to use a cover - the most important information you need to know.

Here is the perfect scenario for using a car cover. You have just washed the car and it is spotless. At that point, cover it. If you drive the car, it is no longer clean, period. If you leave it sitting outside for a few hours, it is no longer clean. If you leave it in the garage overnight, it is not clean unless you have some kind of dust filtration system in your garage. Other than someone like Jay Leno, I can't think of anyone who wouls have such a setup. Thus, only after a wash is when you should be covering the car, especially black car owners. The only thing you do by covering a dusty or dirty car is:

a) Dirty up the car cover (the part you DO NOT want dirty).
b) Grind that dirt into the paint.

Not good choices my friends.

So as you can see, your cover will not get a lot of use unless you are anal enough to constantly care for your paint. For me, it's on a car that may sit for a week at a time because it is not my daily driver. Thus, I can uncover a clean car, drive it, wash it again and cover it until the next episode. Add to that I'm a bachelor and have nothing better to do than take care of my car. For you folks with a family life, I feel your pain!

So there you have it, everything you need to consider when choosing a car cover. I will offer this tad bit of info. Car covers made in the USA definitely have their advantage but even those are not equal. As for my personal preference (for what it's worth), I prefer a cover made by the American company Covercraft because they have been making covers since the 60's and their selection is WIDE. I feel that gives them a little experience in this department. Their two plants that actually make the covers are located in the US. They have a third plant in Mexico but that plant mass produces high volume accessory items and does not make any custom covers. All custom car covers are made in the two U.S. facilities.

That's the Junkman's take on car covers. Your eyes are probably bleeding from all this reading but at least you are now armed with the knowledge to make a well informed purchase.

The Junkman
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