Nitrous best setup?

[PoorMansCamaro]

To me, the very basics would include all safety measures that you could possibly get.

[n2oSS]

First off for a cheap kit ya don't need a bottle heater. Sure it gets ya more pressure but its not needed if your going cheap. Blow down tube i wouldnt worry about either, most tracks don't even check that for just test and tune nights. Cheapest kits i have found were Dynotune Nitrous and last car i used that on was my 350z.

On the safety arguements, i agree that ya don't "need" all the safety junk to make the nitrous kit work. You may want it for various reasons but you dont need it ........... let this decision be up to the OP. If doing a 75 shot i wouldnt even worry bout it.

All that being said, I've half assed many nitrous setups to my cars in the past, i had a 125shot zex kit on an ohv 2.2 liter cavalier that i bypassed the controller and made it push button. lol and that little sucker took it for two years till i sold it. This car, my camaro, i want to do things right. Mostly because i have a supercharger and never played with boost and nitrous before. You pay to play, one way or another your gonna spend that extra money in the long run that your tryin to save in the short run.

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by PoorMansCamaro

To me, the very basics would include all safety measures that you could possibly get.

Personally, I wouldn't do a nitrous build without all the safety devices in place. But, that's not the basics of a nitrous setup. My limited undertanding of nitrous is, before all the fancy automated tech was available for safety and redundant safety mechanisms it was a purely a manual system. I guess it had to be that way before fuel injected computerized engines were around.

The driver had to know when to pop the switch or they'd pop their engine.

That is a basic nitrous system.

So, only logical to start with the basic system (bare bones), to get an understanding of how it all works. Then next subject, how to implement it safely without "manual" intervention and human error for safety and peak performance.

Similar to forced induction; a basic FI is bolt on an SC, but ask me and anyone else who was making real power you couldn't get with a simple cam and exhaust upgrade, we all have horror stories, except for those that tore out and replaced ALL internals. Anyone with a SC, and still stock are simply on borrowed time or not making much more power than what you can get with some basic bolt ons (CAM, headers, exhuast).

So, with all of this stuff it's all risky whether you do the basics, something in between or top of the line system. There is always a weak link somewhere because these engines are not designed for anything but their original performance specs.

[DarkneSS]

Exactly Calbert ultimately the point I was making, and I thought I made, was that you shouldnt just go out and buy a bunch of crap and have it installed not knowing what it does. If you understand how a bare bones system works and how to use a bare bones system you will be much better off.

And N20SS you DEFINITELY should have a bottle heater, even with a bare bones system. You need that bottle pressure to be in the proper range. Below that and you wont make enough power, too much above and you run the risk of breaking.

Originally Posted by calbert1999

So, with all of this stuff it's all risky whether you do the basics, something in between or top of the line system. There is always a weak link somewhere because these engines are not designed for anything but their original performance specs.

Exactly you can buy alll the nitrous safety systems but none of them will help you if the engine cant take it. Even just a 75 shot it MUCH more power than what the stock engine makes. You can barely make that much more power with bolt ons and a tune.

[usa1camaro1969]

Originally Posted by Nitro Dave

Some people gamble and have all the luck. Im not a gambling man.

And you guys should see their camaro and firebird run at our little track.

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

..... could you provide a list of the very bare bones basics of a nitrous system and how it works (manually), the pros / cons (of a basic setup)and risk (without certain parts), and then a full list that would address the risks?

@ Nitrous Dave; Did you see this?

I'm sure it would help people better understand and increase your sales too.

[Nitro Dave]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

@ Nitrous Dave; Did you see this?

I'm sure it would help people better understand and increase your sales too.

Nitrous Accessory Basics.

There are many nitrous accessories to choose from to customize your Nitrous system. Nitrous Outlet offers dedicated fuel systems, custom switch panels, billet bottle brackets, vehicle specific bottle mounting adapters, and much more. Listed below are the most commonly needed accessories to do your nitrous system correctly and safely.

1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important in order for a nitrous system to function properly. We suggest maintaining a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. In order to maintain a constant pressure you will need to heat the nitrous bottle as the volume content or bottle temperature drops. If the bottle pressure drops it can alter the motors tune up causing it to go rich and loose power. Nitrous Outlet offers many different styles of bottle heaters to choose from.

2. Purge kit: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddy’s. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel reaching the motor before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial activation. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers many different styles of purge kits and accessories.

3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: Since bottle pressure is very critical to how the nitrous system performs you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to know the bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a glow-n-dark nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as some gauges that mount inside the cabin of the vehicle.

4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: Being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is inadequate. Nitrous Outlet offers glow-n-dark mechanical gauges to mount in the engine compartment as well as electrical gauges to go in the cabin of your vehicle.

5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of a fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the nitrous systems relay. In the event the fuel pump was to fail it will break the ground source to the system relay.

6. NHRA Blow Off Valve: The NHRA Valve is a specially designed fitting that replaces the nitrous bottle valves stock pressure relief fitting. This fitting is threaded on both ends unlike the stock fitting. One end will seal the pressure relief disk into the nitrous bottle valve. The opposite end has an 8 an thread so that you can attach a blow down tube. This is required by NHRA rules if the nitrous bottle is not mounted in the cabin of the vehicle with the driver. The only way it is not required is if the bottle is separated from the bottle by a sealed firewall. Nitrous Outlet offers a specially designed blow off valve that will safely evacuate the nitrous from the bottle in order to prevent it from becoming a projectile in the event the rupture disk burst while it’s not fastened down.

7. Blow Down Tube: The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle to the outside of the vehicle’s cabin in the event that the safety disc were to bursts due to over pressuring. This is required by NHRA rules if the nitrous bottle is not mounted in the cabin of the vehicle with the driver. The only way it is not required is if the bottle is separated from the bottle by a sealed firewall. Nitrous Outlet offers many different styles of blow down tubes.

8. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any particles of trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid. The mother bottles that your nitrous bottles are filled from commonly have rust contaminants in the bottle. If it is not properly filtered when your bottle is filled it will transfer into your bottle. Having a nitrous filter plumbed into your system can prevent the nitrous solenoid from clogging or sticking open. Nitrous Outlet offers a life time cleanable and reusable nitrous filter.

9. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the nitrous bottle without ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat. Nitrous Outlet offers a remote bottle opener that is easy to use, install and remove.

10. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage. Most window switches or progressive controllers usually have a TPS function included.

11. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under too low of an rpm or over revving your engine while the nitrous is activated. The window switch give’s you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation rpm to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set deactivation RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point and 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.

12. Progressive Controller: A progressive controller is a traction control device. It works by allowing you to gradually bring the nitrous in over a period of time or throughout an rpm curve. A time based progressive controller will allow you to choose a starting percentage and the amount of time it will take to go to a 100 percent. A RPM based progressive will allow you to set a certain amount of nitrous to a certain engine rpm. Most progressive controllers will include a variety of options such as a window switch, TPS activation, delays etc.

13. Wide Band Air to Fuel ratio controller: With a Nitrous system the air to fuel ratio is very critical. A wide band controller will provide you with the information needed to know if you need to lean or richen your nitrous tune up. There are many different wideband controllers available on the market. A couple things to consider when shopping for a controller is the sensor the controller uses as well as the functions it provides. Some controllers include a sensor that cannot be used with leaded fuels while some controllers include a sensor that can be used with leaded fuels. Some controllers will only display the air fuel ratio in real time while some controllers offer data recording so that you can play it back.

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by Nitro Dave

Nitrous Accessory Basics.

There are many nitrous accessories to choose from to customize your Nitrous system. Nitrous Outlet offers dedicated fuel systems, custom switch panels, billet bottle brackets, vehicle specific bottle mounting adapters, and much more. Listed below are the most commonly needed accessories to do your nitrous system correctly and safely.

1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important in order for a nitrous system to function properly. We suggest maintaining a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. In order to maintain a constant pressure you will need to heat the nitrous bottle as the volume content or bottle temperature drops. If the bottle pressure drops it can alter the motors tune up causing it to go rich and loose power. Nitrous Outlet offers many different styles of bottle heaters to choose from.

2. Purge kit: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddy’s. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel reaching the motor before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial activation. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers many different styles of purge kits and accessories.

3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: Since bottle pressure is very critical to how the nitrous system performs you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to know the bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a glow-n-dark nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as some gauges that mount inside the cabin of the vehicle.

4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: Being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is inadequate. Nitrous Outlet offers glow-n-dark mechanical gauges to mount in the engine compartment as well as electrical gauges to go in the cabin of your vehicle.

5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of a fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the nitrous systems relay. In the event the fuel pump was to fail it will break the ground source to the system relay.

6. NHRA Blow Off Valve: The NHRA Valve is a specially designed fitting that replaces the nitrous bottle valves stock pressure relief fitting. This fitting is threaded on both ends unlike the stock fitting. One end will seal the pressure relief disk into the nitrous bottle valve. The opposite end has an 8 an thread so that you can attach a blow down tube. This is required by NHRA rules if the nitrous bottle is not mounted in the cabin of the vehicle with the driver. The only way it is not required is if the bottle is separated from the bottle by a sealed firewall. Nitrous Outlet offers a specially designed blow off valve that will safely evacuate the nitrous from the bottle in order to prevent it from becoming a projectile in the event the rupture disk burst while it’s not fastened down.

7. Blow Down Tube: The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle to the outside of the vehicle’s cabin in the event that the safety disc were to bursts due to over pressuring. This is required by NHRA rules if the nitrous bottle is not mounted in the cabin of the vehicle with the driver. The only way it is not required is if the bottle is separated from the bottle by a sealed firewall. Nitrous Outlet offers many different styles of blow down tubes.

8. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any particles of trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid. The mother bottles that your nitrous bottles are filled from commonly have rust contaminants in the bottle. If it is not properly filtered when your bottle is filled it will transfer into your bottle. Having a nitrous filter plumbed into your system can prevent the nitrous solenoid from clogging or sticking open. Nitrous Outlet offers a life time cleanable and reusable nitrous filter.

9. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the nitrous bottle without ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat. Nitrous Outlet offers a remote bottle opener that is easy to use, install and remove.

10. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage. Most window switches or progressive controllers usually have a TPS function included.

11. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under too low of an rpm or over revving your engine while the nitrous is activated. The window switch give’s you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation rpm to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set deactivation RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point and 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.

12. Progressive Controller: A progressive controller is a traction control device. It works by allowing you to gradually bring the nitrous in over a period of time or throughout an rpm curve. A time based progressive controller will allow you to choose a starting percentage and the amount of time it will take to go to a 100 percent. A RPM based progressive will allow you to set a certain amount of nitrous to a certain engine rpm. Most progressive controllers will include a variety of options such as a window switch, TPS activation, delays etc.

13. Wide Band Air to Fuel ratio controller: With a Nitrous system the air to fuel ratio is very critical. A wide band controller will provide you with the information needed to know if you need to lean or richen your nitrous tune up. There are many different wideband controllers available on the market. A couple things to consider when shopping for a controller is the sensor the controller uses as well as the functions it provides. Some controllers include a sensor that cannot be used with leaded fuels while some controllers include a sensor that can be used with leaded fuels. Some controllers will only display the air fuel ratio in real time while some controllers offer data recording so that you can play it back.

This is a fabulous explanation of the accessories that can be added to a basic system. Thanks, much appreciated.
Now, what is the basic nitrous system?

[n2oSS]

A basic nitrous system is:
Bottle
Fuel lines
Nitrous lines
Fuel solenoid
nitrous solenoid
Fuel/nitrous jet
Fuel jet nozzle
Nitrous jet nozzle
Bottle mounting brackets
Solenoid mounting brackets
zip ties
on/off switch (button or whatever you prefer)
Arm switch
EDIT : forgot wire
All the stuff nitro dave listed there is either safety equipment or performance upgrades for the nitrous system.

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by n2oSS

A basic nitrous system is:
Bottle
Fuel lines
Nitrous lines
Fuel solenoid
nitrous solenoid
Fuel/nitrous jet
Fuel jet nozzle
Nitrous jet nozzle
Bottle mounting brackets
Solenoid mounting brackets
zip ties
on/off switch (button or whatever you prefer)
Arm switch

All the stuff nitro dave listed there is either safety equipment or performance upgrades for the nitrous system.

Nice. Now we have it ya'll. Thanks, guys.
This is quite the list basic + safety.