03-22-2012, 12:48 AM | #1 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 426
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Started My Whipple Install
Well ordered my Whipple from Jannetty Racing a while ago, had it shipped and it arrived a few weeks back. Its been sitting around for a bit and now finally getting some time to start the install. So I thought I would take some pictures during the install.
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Whippled |
03-22-2012, 12:49 AM | #2 |
First off, you dont bolt it to the floor..
j/k good luck with your install, send lots of pics |
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03-22-2012, 12:59 AM | #3 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 426
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Well.... jacked up, front wheels off, inner fender wells out and front fascia off.
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Whippled |
03-22-2012, 01:24 AM | #4 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 426
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Next came mounting the brackets for the heat exchanger and circulating pump. Be careful drilling. Center punch and pilot hole before the final hole are recommended. There's not much room on the bottom side of the hole. So you don't want to be off the mark. Yes the bit slipped on me still
You also have to be careful when drilling to avoid the wire loom behind. But even more careful you don't put the drill bit through the rad. So I used this handy drill stop. Not worth taking a chance.
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Whippled |
03-22-2012, 01:55 AM | #5 |
HT5 COTW 9/3/2012
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are you installing it yourself i wish i had the skills to instal mine,good luck and post more pics of the installation.
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03-22-2012, 09:08 AM | #6 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 426
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Yes, installing myself. Will keep the pics coming. Thanks for the luck.
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Whippled |
03-22-2012, 09:09 AM | #7 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 426
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Makes the floor look good. Thanks for the luck.
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Whippled |
03-22-2012, 09:23 AM | #8 |
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Dude this is what we need a good diy on a supercharger!! Thanks bro..u should do something like what robertway did for his install of the camshaft that would be awesome..ill be suscribibg to this thread
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top 10 reason why real men drive stick. 10. A manual transmission is the ultimate in control 9. You can use automotive jargon and not sound like a total tool 8. You can't spell "manual" without "man" 7. Manual transmissions prove you can do more than one thing at a time 6. You can't drift in an auto 5. You can't pull fancy moves in an automatic 4. You get better fuel economy with a stick 3. Youll never look like a chump if you can drive stick 2. Manual transmission cars are faster 1. Women like a guy who is good with his hands. |
03-22-2012, 10:58 AM | #9 |
The Mark of Excellence
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Subscribed. Love the pictures.
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BMR, CAI, DynoMax, Elite Eng., Hurst, Jannetty, Clear Image Headers & Hi Flow cats, Jet Hot, LSR, TSW, VMax, Vredestein |
03-22-2012, 11:14 AM | #10 |
Ąʇuɐıןןıɹq
Drives: 2011 Camaro IOM 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Decatur, Illinois
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03-22-2012, 11:28 AM | #11 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 426
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Thanks. At first I was just taking a few pics of the install then I started taking some to show some of the difficuties along the way. robertway did such a great job of showing his project it would be hard to live up to that class act. I am further ahead than my pictures show and have more to post and I will take more pics but there may be some gaps on the things already done.
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Whippled |
03-22-2012, 02:36 PM | #12 |
My car runs on acorns....
Drives: 2010 SS RS Inferno Orange Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 1,351
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I've found these installs easier with my old friends, scotch, the squirrel and the lorax. Good luck! Hey make sure you don't use the supercharger oil as drilling oil when you pin the crank.... or so I heard....
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My car runs on acorns, the tears of ricers and these other slightly less important things...
2.9 Polished Whipple, Kooks LT 1 7/8 headers, HiFlow Cats, Kooks Sleeper catback, Cooling Mist Methanol Injection, PFADT Sport Sways, PFADT Springs, PFADT rear trailing arms, ADM intake, JDP stainless brake lines, Jegs Catch can, Stock SS wheels widened to 10 3/4, Hawks HPS Pads, Pedders Rear Subframe Bushing Inserts, BMR Center Brace, MSD BAP, AAC side markers, Emblem Pro's Custom Lighted Door Sills, Dash-Floor-Cupholder ABL lighting and other stuff.... |
03-22-2012, 10:07 PM | #13 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
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Here's the cuts made to the lower air deflector. This allows you access to tap the lower rad mounts. This is where the bottom of the heat exchanger bracket mounts to. You can also see the hole drilled for the pump wiring to go through. Directions say one inch hole but you will to make it a little larger in one spot or the plug wont fit through.
You have to make sure your brackets are straight before drilling the top holes. I found it easier to attach the brackets to the bottom holes(rad support) then temporary mount the heat exchanger to the brackets. This allows you to get it in there straight as well you can mark the top holes exactly. Sorry no photo of this, but its pretty easy. In the directions they tell you to drill a four inch hole to the right of the mounted circulating pump to allow fresh air into the airbox area. If you have an aftermarket cold air intake or plan on getting one I would not drill the hole.
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Whippled |
03-22-2012, 10:30 PM | #14 |
Crewel Jewel
Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 426
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Now came the wiring for the circulating pump. Pretty well explained in the directions.
A couple of cuts to the fuse box lid to allow the fuse tap and power wire to exit. Relays mounted The ground wire was to bolt to the ground on the block. But I hooked up to the other end where it attaches to the body. This just meant one less wire going to the block keeping it neater Wiring along the front going to the pump.
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Whippled Last edited by SSawdusty; 03-22-2012 at 10:44 PM. Reason: one more pic |
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