12-17-2011, 08:41 AM | #1 |
|
Where to buy a catch can?
So I have seen some pics of what the catch can does and I can say I definitely do not want that in my intake. Could someone please provide information on where a person could order one of these and secondly, how does a catch can work?
__________________
2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan,
Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs |
12-17-2011, 10:42 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2021 Crush ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 1,119
|
FWIW - Happy with mine from Mike Norris. Great at responding to questions as well.
__________________
2021 Crush ZL1 1LE |
12-17-2011, 10:44 AM | #3 |
B.O.D. 02/16/10
Drives: 2010 SGM Sp. Edition 2017 RS Conver Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Albia,Iowa
Posts: 3,959
|
SC2150 from tracy is where i got mine also JDP Motorsports will work with on that and also Elite catch can. Two of the best IMO. SC2150 has a whole detailed thread on catch cans
__________________
|
12-17-2011, 10:54 AM | #4 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
|
This.
|
12-17-2011, 11:41 AM | #5 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,063
|
Understanding the need for a proper PCV oil separating catchcan Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine. Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system. On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters. In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off. At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase. Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it. The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible. Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand. There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. Want to see whats in your intake manifold? Simply remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold. Take a white paper towel and reach into the intake manifold snout, rub it around, and pull it out. V6 LLT owners...just inside the intake opening you will see a deep collection well that accumulates oil. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue. Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem. Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter. This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue. I also wanted to address the water in the oil. You will NOT fill your crankcase up in short order with just breathers. What happens is each time your engine reaches operating temp the unburnt fuel, water vapor, combustion by-products will gas or "flash-off" as vapor. But only the excess crankcase pressure being relieved through the breather will carry any of that out....and without a proper evac system, a good amount remains in the crankcase and re-condenses back to droplets that coat the internal engine parts as your motor cools down and it contaminates the oil. Every time you heat cycle you are adding more contamination and it is not very visible to just "look" at your oil....you need a professional analysis to see just what is accumulating in your oil and how it is breaking down its ability to protect...but the corrosion from the sulfuric acid is also very damaging over time (I'll try to post up some pics of parts showing just this in the near future). Just pull the dipstick on a diesel 20 miles after an oil change...it already "looks" black & dirty, but is still new and providing the proper protection. Sight is deceiving. Oil might look pretty clean or dirty but an analysis report will show destructive levels of contaminants. And finally, some have gone so far as to cap off the entire system and run an open hose from each valve cover to near the ground. While this will eliminate all oil getting into the intake via the PCV system, the damage done by the hose with the least amount of air moving past it while at speed will suck dirt/sand/dust/water/and who knows what else directly into the motor via that valve cover. It may take some time (depending on how clean the roads you drive on are) but will result in premature engine wear & failure. The solution for the street crowd is a properly designed, good functioning oil separating catchcan. Many are available on the market, but ONLY ones designed with internal baffling and a good distance separating the inlet from the outlet. Many of the cans seen for low prices on Ebay, etc. are great looking, but are nothing but empty cans with two fittings attached. Do your homework & get a full understanding before you make your selection. |
12-17-2011, 06:02 PM | #6 |
|
Wow, thats really good information. Thanks a ton. So are these easy to install or are they labor intensive? How much could one expect to pay for something like this?
__________________
2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan,
Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs |
12-17-2011, 06:19 PM | #7 |
|
150 Shipped with a oil breather, simple install DIY...
__________________
|
12-17-2011, 07:40 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro L99 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie PA
Posts: 1,226
|
Work well! RX ALL DA WAY!!! SC2150 has GREAT Customer service!!
__________________
2010 L99
vararam intake, Vmax TB,Vmax Intake,TSP VVT 3 Cam,TSP underdrive pulley,Yank 3600,TM Cooler,ARH 2", High Flow cats, X-pipe, GM Pro mufflers, RX Catch Can,160 stat, BMR Trailing,toe,Cradle insert, Diff. Bushings, End links, Spohn-LCA's (Touring)Wheel spacer's. 422 rwhp Mustang Dyno http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaFNAhCL7Os |
12-17-2011, 08:10 PM | #9 |
Banned
|
|
12-17-2011, 08:14 PM | #10 |
Drives: 19 Z06 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville Ont.
Posts: 1,427
|
Catch cans are a good idea, I still have to get one.
__________________
Gone but not forgotten:
1974 Corvette Stingray 454 1986 Z28 2009 Mustang GT convertible 2012 45th 2SS Vert 2013 ZL1 M6 2014 Zl1 M6 2014 GT500 2016 Challenger Hellcat M6 www.youtube.com/c/garageking |
12-17-2011, 11:34 PM | #11 |
B.O.D. 02/16/10
Drives: 2010 SGM Sp. Edition 2017 RS Conver Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Albia,Iowa
Posts: 3,959
|
simple install,just tell him your mods and what location u are using to mount it. I used the post left behind from my Injen CAI install
__________________
|
12-18-2011, 05:06 AM | #12 | |
having FUN now 13.66@101
|
Quote:
that is where mine came from
__________________
|
|
12-18-2011, 09:16 AM | #13 |
Drives: Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Motorcity Dragway
Posts: 978
|
+1
JDP Motorsports & Elite!!!
__________________
11.90's w/headers, CAI, custom tune, slicks/skinnys, shifter & 100+ Ethyl.
|
12-18-2011, 01:58 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 (M6) IOM Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Posts: 80
|
SC2150 All the way! Tracy had great customer service and fast shipping!! I got the breather as well and it looks awesome! Easy to install too!
|
|
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Oil Catch Can Where to buy | Pollock | Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons | 19 | 05-01-2011 10:43 PM |
Why you can't buy a new car directly from the manufacturer | scotchsride09 | Off-topic Discussions | 13 | 02-14-2009 05:15 PM |