ZL1 or Z/28 belly pan on a 2013 1LE - Page 6 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Camaro Dude · 04-26-2015, 08:55 PM

Ok, thanks, that clears that one up : )

olblue75 · 04-26-2015, 08:56 PM

So was the holes for the nut plates in your frame???

Mikamaro · 04-26-2015, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

So was the holes for the nut plates in your frame???

No.

L99CAMA2011 · 04-26-2015, 10:46 PM

I have the Classic Industries belly pan. Even though shorter than GM pieces, I did notice improved stability that I now love also cooler temps which I expected to be hotter.

X25 · 04-26-2015, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikamaro

No.

Haha, so how is that plug and play for you? I'd personally not do it if I didn't have the holes already.

cdb95z28 · 04-26-2015, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X25

I had to trim my front splitter's plastic (or whatever it was) at the back in order to fit the pan flush.

Same here. I got a ZL1 pan and had to trim a little bit.

Mikamaro · 04-27-2015, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X25

Haha, so how is that plug and play for you? I'd personally not do it if I didn't have the holes already.

Used 6 self tapping screws...pretty easy.

bannonm · 04-27-2015, 07:30 AM

I made my own out of 0.40" aluminum based on the zl1 pattern. The only holes that matched up were where the push pins go. I used rivets nuts to hold it in place. I bought the nut plates from the zl1 but quickly realized none of the square holes exist on a 2011 frame. My pan is a two piece so I can remove the back section to change oil. The front part completely encloses the space between the front bumper and the front of the wheel wells. The side benefit besides the aero part is how clean the engine compartment stays.

I even molded the NACA ducts out of fiberglass the cool the trans.

EarlyApex · 04-27-2015, 10:59 AM

bannonm,

Do you have some pictures?

olblue75 · 04-10-2016, 08:31 PM

Finally got around to installing my ZL1 Belly Pan on my 2010 SS with a 1LE Splitter. Had to do a lot of trimming on the pan but looks about 97% factory, but very little trimming on the car(just the rubber strip across the front) will be doing a run down the interstate tomorrow see if I can feel a difference.

olblue75 · 04-10-2016, 08:32 PM

From the splitter back...

xc_SS/RS · 04-10-2016, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

Finally got around to installing my ZL1 Belly Pan on my 2010 SS with a 1LE Splitter. Had to do a lot of trimming on the pan but looks about 97% factory, but very little trimming on the car(just the rubber strip across the front) will be doing a run down the interstate tomorrow see if I can feel a difference.

What trimming did you have to do on the belly pan? I've been looking into adding one of these when I add the 2014 hood vent

olblue75 · 04-10-2016, 09:27 PM

I had to trim one of the NACA ducts on the right side to clear the transmission lines, had to trim the leading edge so it would slide under the splitter I didn't take pictures but it's really simple. I used 5/16-18-1 body bolts an drilled 9/32nds holes an they self tapped into the holes and is very secure. I think my pan was from a automatic because of the transmission line.

xc_SS/RS · 04-11-2016, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

I had to trim one of the NACA ducts on the right side to clear the transmission lines, had to trim the leading edge so it would slide under the splitter I didn't take pictures but it's really simple. I used 5/16-18-1 body bolts an drilled 9/32nds holes an they self tapped into the holes and is very secure. I think my pan was from a automatic because of the transmission line.

Sweet, way less trimming than I was thinking and thanks for posting the bolts/screws you used and the drill bit. That'll make it very easy for me

04-27-2015, 07:30 AM	#78
bannonm Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 VR Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 1,536	ZL1 or Z/28 belly pan on a 2013 1LE I made my own out of 0.40" aluminum based on the zl1 pattern. The only holes that matched up were where the push pins go. I used rivets nuts to hold it in place. I bought the nut plates from the zl1 but quickly realized none of the square holes exist on a 2011 frame. My pan is a two piece so I can remove the back section to change oil. The front part completely encloses the space between the front bumper and the front of the wheel wells. The side benefit besides the aero part is how clean the engine compartment stays. I even molded the NACA ducts out of fiberglass the cool the trans. __________________

04-27-2015, 10:59 AM	#79
EarlyApex Drives: 2013 IOM 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Damascus Or Posts: 403	bannonm, Do you have some pictures? __________________

04-10-2016, 08:31 PM	#80
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,069	ZL1 Belly Pan on a SS with 1LE Splitter Finally got around to installing my ZL1 Belly Pan on my 2010 SS with a 1LE Splitter. Had to do a lot of trimming on the pan but looks about 97% factory, but very little trimming on the car(just the rubber strip across the front) will be doing a run down the interstate tomorrow see if I can feel a difference. Attached Images __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

04-10-2016, 08:32 PM	#81
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,069	From the front From the splitter back... Attached Images __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

04-10-2016, 09:27 PM	#83
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,069	I had to trim one of the NACA ducts on the right side to clear the transmission lines, had to trim the leading edge so it would slide under the splitter I didn't take pictures but it's really simple. I used 5/16-18-1 body bolts an drilled 9/32nds holes an they self tapped into the holes and is very secure. I think my pan was from a automatic because of the transmission line. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

04-26-2015, 08:55 PM	#71
Camaro Dude Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Earth Posts: 3,904	Ok, thanks, that clears that one up : )

04-26-2015, 08:56 PM	#72
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,069	So was the holes for the nut plates in your frame???

04-26-2015, 10:46 PM	#74
L99CAMA2011 Drives: One of the baddest handling Gen 5s Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Masachusetts Posts: 4,177	I have the Classic Industries belly pan. Even though shorter than GM pieces, I did notice improved stability that I now love also cooler temps which I expected to be hotter.