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Old 07-06-2014, 02:05 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by McRat View Post
If the pedal ever sticks to the floor, the clutch itself is hosed. Trust me.

Get a new clutch, then upgrade the hydraulics. Fluid + bleeder.
Yes, there are clutch linings on top of each other not letting the clutch peddle return if it's the clutch, but it could be the master, air in line would let the the clutch return I would think.
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:27 PM   #30
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Brake reservoir cap IS vented like on most cars.
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Old 07-06-2014, 03:17 PM   #31
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Yes, the cap on the brake tank should NOT let air in or fluid out. It has a rubber bladder to keep air out and let the bladder take up the space as the brakes wear. So the cap should never leak unless it's not tight or the bladder has failed. Most all brake res work like that. That's why it good to remove cap and push the rubber bladder back into cap.

Take your cap off and you will see it's not vented. Only time the bladder moves is when the clutch wears or brake pads wear.
With all do respect, what you think is a bladder is the size of a dime, it dose not not work like you think at all there is no air tight seal, its a 1/4 turn on and that's it, for a bladder to work it has to take the space of the fluid that is being displaced, this cap can not do that any day of the week .


If your lucky it want leak to bad but if you drive hard it will, and if you give it time in the heat the 2 tabs that hold the cap on will flex and your tight cap will be loss, then what, You can do what you like but its the same as all the past GEN5 have been for the past 5 years now.


Now look at the separate ress cap its screws in with threads and locks in the bladder, that makes it air tight from the start.
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:59 PM   #32
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My cap does, I looked at it. It has a bladder to take the space up. The cap is not tight you are right but all it has to do is take up very little space as the brakes or clutch wears. It does not use any fluid until the brakes or clutch wears Just travel has no issue on the res fluid. The cap should be air tight to keep moister out. The cap is some what loos, but it does have a bladder. What I will do is make a gasket to put behind the bladder to tighten the bladder to the tank. I do not know of any brake fluid cap that does not have a bladder of some kind.

The cap here is air tight and this is the bladder extended. Now our cap just needs a bit of backing behind the bladder like I did on the ZL1 and never leaks!
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:12 PM   #33
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Here is the cap not extended for wear
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:16 PM   #34
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By the way, a bladder DOES NOT have to take the space of either brake or clutch travel. Only wear of linings. The travel is what moves the clutch or brakes. As the clutch is pushed in it displaces what is in the line not the tank. If nothing ever wears, then no tank is needed. All caps SHOULD be air tight to keep moister out. Our caps need just a bit more of a back up gasket to be air tight.

Here is how I made the ZL1 cap not leak. This is what I put on my truck, same cap.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:45 PM   #35
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You should never use a air tight cap with out a bladder to take up lining wear. I have worked in engineering for this type applications many years. I do know how this brake and clutch reservoir work. I can remember the maintenance manual saying after changing brakes, you should push the bladder back up and check fluid.
Something has to take the space up as the linings wear down, and we do not want air or moister to get in, so reservoirs have bladders. Old school cars like the Chevelles have a big bladder unlike the newer cars, newer cars have a sensors to tell you when fluid is low.

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Old 07-07-2014, 07:03 PM   #36
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Does the Z/28 have the same clutch setup as the standard SS?

Then it will need the separate clutch reservoir and Tick clutch line along with frequent flushes with good fluid.

But it shouldn't happen so soon OP. The dealer will straighten it out.
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:07 PM   #37
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Yes same as the SS
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:52 PM   #38
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Does the Z/28 have the same clutch setup as the standard SS?

Then it will need the separate clutch reservoir and Tick clutch line along with frequent flushes with good fluid.

But it shouldn't happen so soon OP. The dealer will straighten it out.
Yes same as most GM cars, the cap is just too loose and leaks. When I pulled the cap off my Z28 the bladder was extended but the tank was full. Very odd. I do not see what a separate reservoir will do? All we need is enough fluid to take up slack as the linings wear.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:05 PM   #39
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...off to the dealer monday morning.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:27 PM   #40
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Yes same as most GM cars, the cap is just too loose and leaks. When I pulled the cap off my Z28 the bladder was extended but the tank was full. Very odd. I do not see what a separate reservoir will do? All we need is enough fluid to take up slack as the linings wear.
I believe the two reservoir deal is a stock set-up for the 'Vettes....Just sayin', it must have an advantage of some kind....It's a very common mod to add the clutch reservoir for Camaros.....

The leakage thing is hit and miss....Mine never did....
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:00 PM   #41
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I

The leakage thing is hit and miss....Mine never did....
My 2010 leaked from day 1, went to the dealer 2 times and they replaced the cap 2 times and it still leaked, but from the moment we added the new Ress in did not leak any more to this date, all most 5 years now.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:35 AM   #42
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If you just add the washer it will never leak, we think because such a small babbler and liability GM wants the cap to suck in if someone never checks fluid and return the bladder to the up position , it's loose so it can do that. Changing caps will not help, even changing the tank may not help, our Z28s all have the newest tank and they are loose fitting.
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