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Old 02-11-2011, 09:24 AM   #57
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And you say that why? If it is proven that a supercharger gives you 550-600hp to the wheels (LS3) and you can buy it and have it tuned for 7K isnt that cheaper? Trying not to be arguementative here but just trying to understand your comment.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:21 AM   #58
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The E-Force is 505 to the wheels not 550-600.. thats fwhp
Yes we can provide more hp than the E-Force in this way. I can cam it to hit 550 but it wont be as friendly as the 535 we are shooting for. With an agressive 408 and a set of TFS 235's we/HKE seen 550-585 at the wheels

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Old 02-11-2011, 11:14 AM   #59
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Well I was talking about a Maggie or a centrifugal style supercharger. Most folks have LTHs and a CAI and have posted gains in the 550-600 range at the wheel.

Nevertheless if you say an E-Force does 505 and you are looking at 535 the extra 3K for an additional 30 HP doest seem like a smart buy (10hp for 1K).

Again just my opinion and not trying to start an arguement here.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:28 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coop View Post
Well I was talking about a Maggie or a centrifugal style supercharger. Most folks have LTHs and a CAI and have posted gains in the 550-600 range at the wheel.

Nevertheless if you say an E-Force does 505 and you are looking at 535 the extra 3K for an additional 30 HP doest seem like a smart buy (10hp for 1K).

Again just my opinion and not trying to start an arguement here.
What extra 3k ? Its the same price as the E-Force. You want a canned conservative tune with it, no problem but you said dyno tune... lets compare apples to apples.

If your going to install the E-Force yourself then you can swap a motor yourself and we'll provide the canned Conservative tune.

Then you have longevity and durability.. I'll guaranty our precision built forged engine will outlast the oem/eforce setup under the same abuse.
You can hammer our engine all day long, let see what happens when you hammer your factory lS3 all day long with the E-Force on top.
There is making power on the dyno and then there is getting it to live under constant abusive conditions in the real world with pump gas.
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:40 PM   #61
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Well it would be $6595 for the longblock $2500 for the R+R and $450 for the tune
So your looking at $9545 minimum call it $9950 to be safe. (fluids and misc gaskets)
I got the amount from quote above. There are very well respected performance shops installing and dyno tuning superchargers for 7K. From the above quote I read that it will cost me $9550 to get around the same power. Am I wrong reading your quote? If I am and it is cheaper then I may change my mind about getting a supercharger and go N/A. Just trying to understand here.
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Old 02-11-2011, 04:12 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coop View Post
I got the amount from quote above. There are very well respected performance shops installing and dyno tuning superchargers for 7K. From the above quote I read that it will cost me $9550 to get around the same power. Am I wrong reading your quote? If I am and it is cheaper then I may change my mind about getting a supercharger and go N/A. Just trying to understand here.

LOL.. yes there are some offering free installation of the s/c. The margin on them is very good so they make some money overall with the dyno tune. Most dyno tunes are $450 and the s/c $6595.

No for 7k you not going to get a precision forged long block installed and tuned from me.

There is much more to consider here than just the numbers up front and thats what the whole point of the discussion. I feel I can make as much/more power more reliably with the 416. The internals and valve-train in my engine are far better and will take far more abuse than the stock engine.

It's an alternative offer. I sell the E-Force and will the Magnacharger with free delivery and some perks to go with it as well. I'll install it for free if a person wants too and yes I will dyno tune for 7k total... BUT I think my engine is a better deal and will say that. If it were me I'd have me forge it for you for $3875 and then drop a maggy or E-force on there and turn up the boost a bit and make some real power safely with a reliable engine built for it. $2720 is what your talking about.... then a dyno tune for $450 BUT you will be 100% ahead of the game.

Doing it the other way doesn't make sense to me. You build from the ground up. If your plan is to be forced inducted then you prep the short block first. Who's to say god forbid if the engine goes south on ya it doesn't take out the block.. thats 1450 your ahead of the game if you don't break it as well as being able to sell the rotating assembly from you current engine before you mess it up. Plenty of guys looking to fix a hole in a piston from the same thing. So there really is a whole lot to consider. Repeating steps is the quickest way to spend more money than you need so I look at it from the bottom up.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:24 PM   #63
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So you do not even use the stock block for you 416? For the estimated price you mentioned a person gets a complete new engine correct.

The idea of beefing up the bottom end makes sense to me. If you were closer I might take you up on it. Just for my clarification to beef up the motor for F/I would be $3875 plus the cost of the maggie. What is the $2720 for?
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:33 PM   #64
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A fuel system upgrade would also be necessary at this level $$$
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:04 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Coop View Post
So you do not even use the stock block for you 416? For the estimated price you mentioned a person gets a complete new engine correct.

The idea of beefing up the bottom end makes sense to me. If you were closer I might take you up on it. Just for my clarification to beef up the motor for F/I would be $3875 plus the cost of the maggie. What is the $2720 for?
Its $3875 to forge the bottom end using your block. The difference between 6595 and 3875 is $2720. Thats what it would take to get you back to the 6595 for the s/c or add the dyno tune money in there as well. Then you have a solid base for what ever you to run for boost on top.
We can use a new core and charge you for it and refund yo the money when we get your good core in return. You just swap everything over and send us back the empty block in a rubbermaid tote. Easy shmeazy

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A fuel system upgrade would also be necessary at this level $$$
The fuel system is related the hp you want to make, it doesnt matter if the engine is a forged 416 or an LS3 off the showroom floor.. your going to spend money on a real fuel system if you want to boost beyond the bap bandaid
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:12 PM   #66
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Thanks for explaining everything. I would love to have an N/A motor that could run with the supercharged cars but just do not have the money for it. Even getting the bottom end done adds close to 4K to the 7K for the supercharger so that is out. Since I do not plan to hammer on it all the time I guess I will just stick with getting a maggie.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:47 PM   #67
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Quote:
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Nevertheless if you say an E-Force does 505 and you are looking at 535 the extra 3K for an additional 30 HP doest seem like a smart buy (10hp for 1K).
It's not just about the hp. You have to look at the big picture. A 416 will cost more than a supercharger when it's all said and done (the primary difference in price being the r&r of the engine) but you're getting a product that can withstand a LOT more abuse. Personally, I'd rather have a "bulletproof" forged engine with a nice set of heads and cam over a supercharger that's hamstringed by sitting on a stock engine that really wasn't built for boost anyways. A bad tank of gas or a fuel pump going out could be the end of the fun there. If the engine goes then you're spending the money for a replacement anyways.

That's just me though, everyone's different.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:55 PM   #68
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That is what I said in my last post. I do not have the money to all out so I get what I can afford. Again, I do prefer a N/A motor but will never have the money to build a motor they way I want one.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:26 PM   #69
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Well if you really want one, instead of dropping the $7k on the blower set up just save for awhile longer and get the stroker. It'll be worth the wait.
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:13 AM   #70
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Or do what I am doing. Head and cam first... then save for a little while and do the short block.
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