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Old 02-19-2012, 07:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ91 View Post
Thats awesome, thanks for the DIY! It definitly looks like you went deep on the heads but I guess you didnt! I dont mind porting the IM but afraid to do the heads but after seeing all the pics and work from everyone, I think ill be fine!
Take your time and it is cake work.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:49 PM   #16
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I'm actually more nervous now than I was when I did it, haha. Took my time, just hope everything will work fine.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OOLIE View Post
Take your time and it is cake work.
Thanks for the boost

Quote:
Originally Posted by AUS10BMX View Post
I'm actually more nervous now than I was when I did it, haha. Took my time, just hope everything will work fine.
and lol really? Im sure it will run great and strong!
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:00 AM   #18
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Great job man, looks awesome...let us know how she runs
were you able to get the cover back on?
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:48 AM   #19
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the black hose on the right of the manifold did u just pull it off cause let me tell you after i un clipped it i tried to pull it off and it felt like if i keep trying it was going to rip in half before i got it off
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:08 AM   #20
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Are you able to put the engine cover on, or does it not fit with the oil cap?
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:27 AM   #21
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Did the sound of the motor change at all?
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:30 AM   #22
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:33 AM   #23
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Nice job!!! if you guys ever decide to port yourself try this, this work very well, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cylin...#ht_2001wt_962 it come with two 6" shank and two (I think)4" shank with 80 abrasive cartridge rolls, 80 grit to be exact which is perfect to get that smooth but still rough surface which is very important. You can pick up a die grinder from harbor freight for about $30 bucks which accept all 1/4" mandrels, shanks, or whatever, and it work very very well. Also, pick up a speed controller so you can control the 30,000rpm from the die grinder which is only about 20 bucks. You have a perfect combo without spending a fortune when all you are going to port is maybe one or two things anyway. The cartridge rolls are very forgiving and easy to use. Perfect for beginners.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:40 AM   #24
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So I cranked it up this morning and she definitely struggled a little bit! I guess it was just going through all the motions of sorting back out since so much was taken off and unplugged.

Pulled it out of the drive and it felt a little hesitant still, and then started to open up like normal.

Drove it to work today to see how everything felt. Nothing has really made me go "wow" yet, but at times I did feel it pull pretty hard through certain rpms. Hopefully I'll start to notice the more I drive it.

I do have a cel, but I haven't reset the car yet. It should go away, if not I'll check it with my tuner.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #25
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i think the cell is from unplugging the TB
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:33 AM   #26
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the only time you get a CEL from the TB is if you leave it unplugged and put the key back in the ignition. if the car is off, and you unplug and plug it back in you'll be fine. i've had my TB off and on numerous times without a CEL. if it's still running a little rough, double check all your hose fittings...you don't want any vacuum leaks. do you have a bluetooth ELM device or any way of monitoring what your engine is seeing?
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:44 AM   #27
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Yeah I doubt it's the TB. I've never had a cell from it. The new CNC one has been on for over a week. I can check it with my Hypertech tuner. Everything is in tach and connected properly.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:53 AM   #28
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yeah, i would check to see what that CEL is and go from there.

if you get a ELM device, you can use an app like Torque and get real time data from the ECU. one of the important parameters to watch is your LTFT's. they show if you're running rich or lean. even use it as a troubleshooting method to see if you have an air leak on one side or the other.
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