Should i attempt this install myself?

[Nighthawk89]

BMR Products

- TCA033 (Trailing Arms)
- BK006 (Outer trailing arm bushings)
- TR004 (Toe links)
- SB039 (swaybars)
- EK011 (Front end links)
- BK039 (Upper control arm bushings)

OEM Parts

-GM rear endlinks
-GM rear lower control arms

As well as solid subframe bushings.

I don't have a lift handy.. Just jack stands.. =/

[mhog]

Yes! BMR has good instructions.

[JDP Sales]

Hard to say. BMR has good instructions, but doing the subframe bushings are pretty involved. Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I suggest reading over the instructions and see if you feel comfortable performing the tasks.

The Sways and FE4 conversion are easy enough though.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

[BMR Sales]

The hardest part of all this is going to be getting the factory cradle bushings out of the cradle. The rest of it is not too difficult.

[Nighthawk89]

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Hard to say. BMR has good instructions, but doing the subframe bushings are pretty involved. Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I suggest reading over the instructions and see if you feel comfortable performing the tasks.

The Sways and FE4 conversion are easy enough though.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

That looks to be a potentially difficult task agreed. lol. I might have that done elsewhere.

[Nighthawk89]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

The hardest part of all this is going to be getting the factory cradle bushings out of the cradle. The rest of it is not too difficult.

Hey Keith, Do you guys provide a tool to press out the bushings?

[mhog]

You can get them out using the jack and heat method. Don't have to take the cradle out. Just lower it. There is a video around somewhere.

[NotYetLegend]

Originally Posted by Nighthawk89

Hey Keith, Do you guys provide a tool to press out the bushings?

I doubt they do (why should they?) but there is a reasonably priced 2 jaw puller at harbor freight that I saw in another thread does work: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-40966.html

And as said above everything should be pretty easy except for the subframe bushing. Like the trailing arms and toe rods are 15 minutes a piece, they're a breeze. The upper control arm bushing is in a confined space and normally somewhat difficult but if you are dropping the cradle anyways it will be like a 10 minute thing w handtools. Good luck either way!

[Nighthawk89]

Originally Posted by NotYetLegend

I doubt they do (why should they?) but there is a reasonably priced 2 jaw puller at harbor freight that I saw in another thread does work: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-40966.html

And as said above everything should be pretty easy except for the subframe bushing. Like the trailing arms and toe rods are 15 minutes a piece, they're a breeze. The upper control arm bushing is in a confined space and normally somewhat difficult but if you are dropping the cradle anyways it will be like a 10 minute thing w handtools. Good luck either way!

Was not familiar with the price of the tool. Which is why i was asking.

What would you recommend i have done when i have the shop install the solid subframes? Or is that pretty much its own job in itself and the rest i can do myself?

[Rico]

With the right tools it's not bad to do. Like stated above, the hardest part is removing the old bushings.

[BMR Sales]

We do not provide any kind of tool to get the factory bushings out. The 2-jaw puller is good for removing the outer trailing arm bushings, but I haven't seen anyone successfully use one for removing the cradle bushings. We always just drop the cradle completely out of the car, and cut through the factory cradle bushings with a sawzall and then knock them out (gotta be extremely careful not to cut into the subframe itself!!!!). I have seen the "heat method" explained here on the forum, but have not tried it myself. Seems like it would work good....in theory!!!

[Dexman1349]

Removing the outer trailing arm bushings and the cradle bushings sucked. It was even worse for me because the car was 3 years old and there was some corrosion that bonded them even tighter than "fresh from the factory." I had to make my own press for the TA bushings, and the cradles had to be cut out with a sawzall. It can be done, but it sucks.

*Disclaimer: I did all of this in my garage on jackstands without any bushing puller tools. I followed all manufacturer instructions, and it still sucked.

[Nighthawk89]

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

Removing the outer trailing arm bushings and the cradle bushings sucked. It was even worse for me because the car was 3 years old and there was some corrosion that bonded them even tighter than "fresh from the factory." I had to make my own press for the TA bushings, and the cradles had to be cut out with a sawzall. It can be done, but it sucks.

*Disclaimer: I did all of this in my garage on jackstands without any bushing puller tools. I followed all manufacturer instructions, and it still sucked.

Im a tad bit worried. Lol. So you guys are speaking of the subframe bushings being a pain. Correct? When your talking about the "cradle bushings"? Im a newb with suspension parts.

[Nighthawk89]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

We do not provide any kind of tool to get the factory bushings out. The 2-jaw puller is good for removing the outer trailing arm bushings, but I haven't seen anyone successfully use one for removing the cradle bushings. We always just drop the cradle completely out of the car, and cut through the factory cradle bushings with a sawzall and then knock them out (gotta be extremely careful not to cut into the subframe itself!!!!). I have seen the "heat method" explained here on the forum, but have not tried it myself. Seems like it would work good....in theory!!!

Do you guys have a write up for the cradle bushings? Link?