Brake Bleeder Recommendation

[rdame]

Motive products seems to be the most popular brake bleeder. Personal non commercial use so I am thinking the 2 qt version. However based on adapter configurations and place of sale there seems to be many different part numbers and price points available. I want one to work on my 2011 SS but would also like to get a multiple adapter kit for other vehicles. Any recommendations for best bang for your buck configuration / part number? Is there an advantage to pressure vs vacuum bleeding? Any other brand recommendations?

[Nick S]

I have tried both pressure and vacuum methods. Pressure worked better as the vacuum method just pulled air in around the bleeder screw when I cracked it open and didn't really pull much fluid out.

With the motive pressure bleeder method though I usually do not actually fill the container with any fluid. I just use it to pressurize the system and keep an eye on the master cylinder. The pressure bleeder is kind of a PITA to clean out after putting fluid in it. I usually just bleed two corners and then check the master cylinder reservoir. If needed I just pull the bleeder adapter off and add more fluid and then pressurize the system again.

I have also come to the conclusion that I only pressurize it to ~5psi so I don't cause any potential air bubbles to shrink in size too much. The smaller the air bubble the easier it can hide and not get pushed out. So I pressurize it just enough to push fluid thru the system but allow the any bubbles to stay as large as possible so they are easier to flush out.

[cajun1le]

rdame,

I use a vacuum bleeder and it works quite well for me. As Nick mentioned, this method does have the tendency to pull air from around the bleeder screw but it does not produce any adverse affects during use (air is not entering the brake system). The reason why I recommend using a vacuum system over pressure bleeders is because pressure bleeders can damage or force fluid past the seals on the brake reservoir and/or master cylinder. Also, a vacuum bleeder allows fluid to flow at a negative pressure which also allows any bubbles to expand and exit the system more effectively.

Below is what I use at my shop:

https://store.snapon.com/Product-Det...T-P825425.aspx

Tech Tip:
If you are concerned about air sneaking around the bleeder screw or the vacuum coupling. Try adding a little high temp lithium grease around the bleeder screw nipple that the coupling attaches to. This eliminates roughly 60% of the visible bubbles while using the vacuum bleeder.

[AG1LE]

I use the motive pressure bleeder, black label version - works well (I use the dry method), very easy. I think I ordered mine via Amazon.

[Russell James]

I use Mityvac 6830 vacuum bleeder. Got it from Amazon. Love it, very easy one person brake bleeding. I've got two race cars and a 1LE, lots of brake bleeding going on at my house.

I like the vacuum method as you are doing everything at the caliper. Less running around I think. The air that gets in the line while the bleeder is opened is meaningless. None of that air is going back into the caliper.

Now, to be honest I've never tried the pressure method. Got so use to using the vacuum method, and the Mityvac is pretty bulletproof and foolproof never had a need to try something else. Also if using a hoist, nice to just do everything underneath and not mess with the M/C resevoir. Can set it up to autofill it before raising the car.

...and the idea of pressure and brake fluid up there in the engine compartment makes me a little nervous of a paint mishap.

[Red2014SS]

I've used both the MityVac vacuum bleeder and, most recently, the Motive pressure bleeder. Both work, but I give the nod to MityVac. The MityVac is simple and it works. It's easy to use and fits every caliper I've tried it on.

The Motive is a bit of a pain in the rear. To use it as designed, you fill the Motive tank with brake fluid, attach it to your master cylinder res, pump up some pressure, then bleed the system. If it works as advertised, once you are finished, you now have the chore of cleaning the thing. It didn't work as advertised, so I never filled the tank with brake fluid. I cannot comment on the difficulty of cleaning the tank.

Luckily, I tested it dry before I added any brake fluid. I found that anything over 10lbs pressure would cause the cap to blow off the master cylinder reservoir. This would have created a nightmare if the tank had been full of brake fluid.

So I ended up doing what everyone else does - I left the tank dry and just added brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir as needed. It worked, but it took longer. Each time you need to add fluid, you have to release pressure, remove cap, add fluid and start over. It's better than having someone pump the brake pedal, but that's about as much credit as I will give it.

To their credit, I emailed Motive and complained about the cap blowing off, and they sent me a new metal cap for free. I haven't tried it yet. Hopefully it will hold 15lbs of pressure.

[sting808]

Originally Posted by Red2014SS

To their credit, I emailed Motive and complained about the cap blowing off, and they sent me a new metal cap for free. I haven't tried it yet. Hopefully it will hold 15lbs of pressure.

Motive is very responsive and offered to send me free hose replacement + shipping cost since mine cracked on first attempt after sitting for a year. Second try, I found some Tygon tubing at a chemical supply house and started again. I pressured up to 10 psi and my old rubber gasket leaked at the cap. I have the blue aluminum machined cap. It worked great the first year of use, but I let it sit for another year. Cap felt tight, but I guess the gasket couldn't hold the pressure after aging. I have the universal adaptor with the chains and threaded j hooks, too, but never used this adapter kit.

I finally cleaned up the engine bay a second time by flushing water. Now, I use the Motive as a dry gravity assist pressure bleeder. Like others, I pump to 5-7 lbs, and slowly bleed. It works, but takes a little longer. I had to engage the ABS on some test runs and re-bled. Took awhile, but everything working well.

The GM techs at school all preach gravity bleed if only 1-person. If you clean out the Motive bleeder with alcohol and replace the gaskets annually, I'm sure it will work well throughout the years, but a little too much work.

In the end, dry low-pressure assist gravity bleed works well and is "safe".

[rdame]

Great info. Thanks. I was unaware of the potential for a popped hose and brake fluid shower. I know it could happen but it seems it is more frequent than I would have suspected. I guess the Motive 0260 kit with multiple adapters looks to be the DIY choice for me. I actually did this in a GM assemble plant, but their brake bleeding machine was "slightly" more expensive.........

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by rdame

Great info. Thanks. I was unaware of the potential for a popped hose and brake fluid shower. I know it could happen but it seems it is more frequent than I would have suspected. I guess the Motive 0260 kit with multiple adapters looks to be the DIY choice for me. I actually did this in a GM assemble plant, but their brake bleeding machine was "slightly" more expensive.........

Don't overlook the Mityvac. Super easy to use. No messing with adapters.

Couple other tips for bleeding... the biggest pain in the ass is a broken bleeder. Before bleeding brakes drive the car and get the brakes nice and warm. Hot parts will break free much easier than stone cold ones. Same thing goes for oil filters, O2 sensors... get them hot.

If the car has some age to it, put some penetrating oil on the bleeders the day before. Before trying to crack it loose, tap down lightly on the bleeder with a hammer. Lightly! This helps break free stuck threads.

And if a bleeder does break off, not the end of the world. Try to tap down on the remaining piece. Stick something like a small screw in there and tap down. Then use an easy out bit to grab it and turn it out. But you need to tap it down first to release the bind of the threads.

[rdame]

OK. Got a Motive power bleeder. I removed my calipers for paint and decals. In the process all pads got pushed back into pots. I replaced the brake lines with Goodridge Phantom G-Stops. End result is when I went to bleed the brakes I had a LOT of air volume in the system at the ends of the lines (4 new lines + 16 pots pushed back into caliper body). Pumped up Motive (dry method) to 15 psi and was getting very little output volume. I was not expecting to shoot fluid across room but expected a steady flow at a rate greater than a dribble. I am using a bleeder bottle with a tube to the bottom inside. I assumed it was all the trapped air compressing so I did a once around to all 8 bleeders did an initial opening to release as much air as I could. Seemed to work because I was then able to pump the pedal a couple of times slowly with my hand to press pads against rotors. Now I figured I would be doing a normal bleed. I am pretty sure I did not get any air back to the ABS module. Bled in order RR inner - RR outer LF inner - LF outer. LR Inner - LR Outer, RF Inner - RF Outer. In fact bled about 4 or 5 rounds. Fluid flow is VERY slow at 15 PSI. When I tried the brakes they worked but were softer / spongier than when I started. Should be rock hard with ss lines. Bled again and still spongy. I will try taking it out for a couple of ABS engaging emergency stops, and will re-bleed, but frankly I expected fluid flow greater than what I got. So far I have pushed 2 full bottles of Motul 600 through the system. Motive pressure does not go down very quick and full open bleeder produces a trickle. I am ordering a MightyVac and will try that or alternatively both at the same time. In the mean time I will try manual 2 person method. This may result in a disgruntled wife. She hate the pedal pushing job…
Any suggestions on why flow seems restricted. There must be air in there I am not getting out…….


There is obviously air somewhere that is not coming out. I don't like spongy brakes and want to fix this issue. Any ideas? My last resort is the two person method but it could end up in a divorce or a spousal shooting (My wife hates using brakes standing still......)

Are the hoses and fittings with the Motive too flexible to provide a good solid flow or is there something else that would cause reduced flow rate. I honestly believe this the rate is slow enough to no move trapped smaller bubbles.....

[rdame]

Finally got brake bleed done. Tried the Motive pressure bleed using the dry method and the vacuum method with the MightyVac. Ended up doing the manual two person method. Had a whole bunch of micro bubbles come out of RF inner caliper that I could not get out with the one man methods. The pressure bleeders simply did not move the fluid with enough flow to get these bubbles out. I like both bleeder tools but ultimate resolution was to go old school. Not sure why this was the case. I thought that the power bleeders would produce more flow....

[Nessal]

Originally Posted by rdame

Finally got brake bleed done. Tried the Motive pressure bleed using the dry method and the vacuum method with the MightyVac. Ended up doing the manual two person method. Had a whole bunch of micro bubbles come out of RF inner caliper that I could not get out with the one man methods. The pressure bleeders simply did not move the fluid with enough flow to get these bubbles out. I like both bleeder tools but ultimate resolution was to go old school. Not sure why this was the case. I thought that the power bleeders would produce more flow....

There is a better way. I also have the Motive Bleeder but have came to hate it. I haven't touched it in years.

I used to do the two man method but sometimes it's not convenient. Here is a product that makes it much easier and cost just $10.

http://www.amazon.com/636-Distributi...THET46ADC6T6ZS

I use it for my motorcycles but thought....why not try it on my car? It is basically the same principle as a speed bleeder. It's has a one way check valve. I hook it up to the bleeder nipple, loosen it, and pump the brakes. It's makes it a one man job and moves the fluid fast because of the pumping action.