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Old 10-13-2017, 11:51 AM   #15
christianchevell
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A stock l99 has the actuators for the DOD all up under the intake and for a ls3 conversion they have to go......For one, and AFM lifters are problematic at best over the long long haul and should be ditched..... Just a couple tid bits of info.... a AFM lifter has to have spending its lifts life either normal use; or starved for oil by the actuator so it does not extend to work the 1/2 of the engine you disable with DOD/AFM ...... and have been noted to fail more often than a normal lifter. VVT is good, DOD not.....
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:06 PM   #16
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Either cam choice he will have to delete dod. You will also need to replace the afm lifters either way you go as mentioned. I'd highly recommend keeping vvt though
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:47 PM   #17
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Just so we are clear - You can buy a GPI stage 1/2 cam for our L99 cars and keep VVT and run the stock convertor? IF so I'm all in on the cam life. If not, then a cam is a relatively expensive upgrade for the people that go for a L99 to Ls3 plus a 3600 stall
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:48 PM   #18
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Also Christian - FWIW, I like reading your posts. Nice to have a very mechanically savvy person post in the forums for some of us folks that are new to the modding community. Just wanted to let you know its appreciated lol
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thr3zus View Post
I am currently looking at camshafts on Texas speed and performance and it says for a package with dod delete TPS L99 VVT 1.2 Camshaft but it also has 2.2, 3.2, and 4.2 what are those numbers?
The .2 versions are the second version of all their cams. Like 1.2 is their second version of their stage 1 cam. You have to read the descriptions to see the difference between stage 1 and stage 1.2.

It looks like their .2 versions say they are more aggressive lobes with higher lift. This will require the heads to be removed and lifters changed.

I'm not a fan of aggressive lobes on a daily driver. Aggressive lobes are to get every last hp out of a build to meet some hp level needed to hit some racing/hp goal. Aggressive lobes however are ; noisy, tough on parts, require more maintenance i.e. valve spring changes, complete valve train parts inspections...

Me... and this is just me... for a daily driver... if I owned a L99 auto.... I'd pick a stage one vvt cam with mild lobes focusing on quiet valve train and operation that is easy on all the valve train parts. I'd pull the heads and throw the AFM lifters in the garbage. Go with new LS lifters and trays. Same part number lifter for all non AFM LS motors. I'd pick a cam that worked perfectly with the stock tq converter. One that has generous PTV clearance.

The shop that is doing the build and tuning should really be helping you pick the cam. If they are not involved in the cam selection, I would question the choice of that shop. There are so many little details... springs, PR length, rocker trunions, checking PTV clearance...
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:19 AM   #20
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Doing a cam I know the more power and torque the better if your spending that amount of money, Mines a daily driver, stuff costs money, a l99 build versus a ls3 you'll be pulling the heads and you will want a ls3 intakes valley pan (look in for sale section), and the costs usually a grand more if not more than a ls3 especially if doing the converter. I don't know nay vendors near you to do a cheap kit and install but would recommend one, I think the place closet to you may be Livernois which is cost effective. Read up on old cam install posts, good luck. A good 8620 core and some br30 for a cam break in and the cam will live, but the spring pressures of over stock lift are hard on a cam and the springs, thus the racing cams GM makes..the Hot cam and the ASA cam are lower lifts even some lower than stock just lots more duration and tighter LSA which stock ours is crap.

My first fifth gen was a 2ss/rs convertible l99 triple black the nicest on the lot and I have a cat that loves to sit top dead center of my cars...Though treating it with Sunbrella and using lint brushes worked...I was always leery and knowing the first places to make the phaser changes and cam for the l99 , ( mast) and the weaker suspension and need to go converter I figured I would be out a lot more money to upgrade all at once and went to get the color I wanted in the first place....and the stick.

Sure I lost like 7 grand for driving a year for 5k miles, but I got what I wanted in another city. And I don't have to deal with obsessively cleaning a black car...LOL

Life is too short enjoy it, only you know what you want in the performance terms, where I work with a lot of people that have money I am not looked down on at least LOL, I am able to hold my head up and yes theres; vettes and a hellcat etc..... LOL Tough crowd, but I don't care its about what I enjoy and the feel of laying the power down and how easy I can shred tires if need be or make some ass hat back off...I hate tail gaters.....
And so its in what you want and if I were you...I would want to spend money and go big or go home, or just live with bolt-ons and a stupid throttle toy to keep it real and in expensive for use as mods never make the money on sale or trade in back..like 99.99 %. SO if you don't love it and have that kind of cash on a fairly regular basis...go with what your gut tells you. Regret is a PITA so 20/20 hindsight is, and the costs about the same for the conversion versus not BTW, but hey its all in what you want and can afford.

You may want to carouse the Livernois sight or Lingenfelter etc...though they are $$$$, and my mom came from Des Moines I know its a cold place in winter I would in your case most likely be Blizzacks and bolt-ons with a good tune for the tranny....
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Last edited by christianchevell; 10-15-2017 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:38 AM   #21
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Family races promod in eddyville and owns a successful transmission and auto shop. Dad was a Cat diesel mechanic for years and we have access to he full suite of tools needed to do the work on your own. We would be doing all of the work regardless of what direction we chose so not worried about finding someone like livernois do the work. I appreciate the kind advice. Just look to add some power and grunt and noise without having to do a stall convertor. Should be pretty exciting this winter. We're certainly going to have plenty of projects to do now while the car is parked until April
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:55 AM   #22
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I'm confused about the l99 to ls3 you'll be pulling heads and need ls3 intake. The intakes are the same. You'll also be pulling heads either way you go unless you do a very mild afm cam which defeats the purpose of spending the money on the cam in the first place.
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:11 PM   #23
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Agreed, intakes are the same...

My question, why the aversion to an aftermarket stall? I"ve heard a 2800-3200 is pretty driveable for a daily driver.
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:29 PM   #24
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I had a FTI 3200 and now circle d 1e (4000) and no issues when I drive the car to work. Granted the 3200 was better in traffic but 2800-3000 shouldn't be a problem
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:31 AM   #25
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well actually its the valley pan that has all the actuators... and needs to be swapped

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...retaining-vvt/ its the plumbing for the PCV also changes some when doing a ls3 from l99 also....? sorry...sick with cold, but hey at least the cover is cheaper than a intake. And he should read up on this article anyway with the fact he has to limit the phaser and thus not so much VVT with a better cam..... and well you have to risk a crappy install of a better pump on ls3 if try to squeeze in a new pump with out dropping the pan/cradle but on a l99 you have a higher volume pump factory which should be fine, ( not that lots as I did just use the stock pump on a ls3 build along with the stock tensioner which can be problematic).... but for a dogbone dampener like in the ls7/2 style a fellow would carefully have to do a pan drop to get the timing chain off or use a dremel and patience and keep it clean to go with the dampener versus the plastic tensioner. Yupper lots to think of for the l99s ..keeping the VVT it cant be so much and I think Mast was the first with a phaser limiter and the cam shafts it was someone down there in the SW I remember...LOL back when they made the first.........Anyway this article is IMO to me about stock lift and they use beehive springs which most do not use as they are not good enough for higher lifts and if one breaks you have crapped the bed big time, at lest it shows using new baskets for the ls3/7 lifters which hey...BTW if your pulling heads might as well go with a ls9 head gasket incase of FI is in your future.....and don't forget new TTY bolts..... and some stock exhaust gaskets etc..........

and as far as stalls basically its listed as blank stall at "what ever" as to driving it does not slip to make you take off at that rpm as much as listed of course or people would not be using them, the fact is up too about a 2500 stall was what us old motor heads used to think of as perfectly fine for the street with no real slippage noted to worry about having to take off at that from that rpm " burning rubber" Anyway there are tools to be used not in the normal tool box so read up on any articles you can find and good luck. And for such a mild cam I would most likely ignore the desire for a cam and do bolt ons and tune as I am a go bigger or go home guy and then you would not have worries over springs over time and wait a save up money to do more at once because one mod makes another one needed... and so on and its addicting and well I daily drive mine all winter.
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