03-12-2012, 08:07 PM | #1 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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BlkGenius Black LFX
Well, it seems this will be the only way I can keep up with the ongoing changes i'm making to it.
Completed: 12/23/11
1/??/12
2/??/12
3/??/12
3/15/12
3/28/12
Currently ordered/shipped:
Currently in waiting:
Last edited by ecko04; 03-29-2012 at 12:45 AM. Reason: Fixed grammatical & formatting errors |
03-12-2012, 09:58 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 IBM Camaro 1LT / RS Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Island, NY / Cambridge, MA
Posts: 550
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nice! post some pics of your new lights
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1944 Willys Jeep
2010 Camaro RS IMB w/ Sound System upgrade + Sunroof, Chrome gills |
03-15-2012, 11:39 AM | #3 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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I'll snap some pics. Nothing fancy, just 5000K HID's in stock halogen housing. A major downgrade from what i'm accustomed to but i'll solve that with a retrofit later. I found the 6000K a little too blue for my liking in the halogen housing.
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03-15-2012, 12:15 PM | #4 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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updated
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03-15-2012, 09:35 PM | #5 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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03-28-2012, 08:16 PM | #6 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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Updated
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04-04-2012, 12:09 PM | #7 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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It seems like ******** has all the owners of the BA system covered but as for the rest of us, they left us high and dry. In fact, I reached out via PM and email a few times to ******** while I was organizing my thoughts on a system and the only response I received was in regards to mounting an amp behind their box, but I digress. They seem to be well loved here, but not so much in my book.
In any case, here's what I wanted:
With those things in mind I decided I would go with the following system components
Install your speakers and your rear speakers. This has been covered in great detail. If you need a little guide, see the attached PDF. I don't have pics of this part but in order to use the PAC AA-GM44 for a 4 channel, you need to modify the harness a little bit. You cut the harness in the middle. Take the speaker wires from the car side and wire them into speed wire. The radio side you wire into the AA-GM44. Go ahead and turn the levels all the way up on the AA-GM44 (this will keep you from having the remove the radio again). Go ahead and wire your AA-GM44 to 12v constant and accessory while you're doing the wiring. You won't find a switched power source behind the radio so don't worry about the remote wire in the speed wire for now. Plug in your 4 channel RCA's and run them to the back of the car. Now grab a remote wire from one of your amp kits. What you want to do, while the center console is still apart since you needed to take it apart to remove the radio, go ahead and grab your remote from the cig socket. The wire color will either be red or green (most likely green). However, when in doubt, use your DMM (digital multi-meter). The last thing you want is to put everything together just to remove everything again. Now, run your remote along side your RCA's. Take your amp and mount it on the Sub Thump bracket. Now you'll need a 12mm bolt to secure it to the factory location but you'll have some time to do that as this will be one of the last things you do. In the spare tire well you'll notice a factory ground point (i.e. you don't HAVE to use the battery). Run your ground from that point into your distribution block. You then take a 8 awg and run it from the distribution block to your 4-channel amp (make sure your fuse is in-line). Next you'll take a 4 awg and run it from the distribution block to your mono amp (make sure your fuse is in-line). Next you'll be the exact same thing with the other distribution block for power, which you will grab from the battery. Now you have almost all your wires ran. Next, you'll take your mono block amp and make it look nice and pretty. What I did was drill a hole in the back of the amp rack to run all my wires. I used spacers to "float" the amp. Go ahead and splice the remote wire, you'll need one going to the mono and another going to the 4-channel. Understand by powering the amps using switched accessory, you will lose some functions. For example, the door chimes when you mistakenly leave your lights on and the ability to play music without your key in the ignition. Now, you can use DC offset for amp turn-on but DC offset isn't foolproof and doesn't work with all speakers and amps. I used 10 awg wire for subwoofer speaker wire. I took the 2-channel RCA's and plugged them into the input of the mono block amp. You might ask why. Well because i'm using the pre-out from the 4-channel as an input to the mono block. The reason for this is that it eliminates the need for a line-output converter (LOC). Next go on over to the side where the 4-channel will mount and wire in your speed wire, RCA's, power, etc. Once again, do not mount the amp as you'll need to adjust your gains prior to installing the sub box. Well that's about it. Everything is is cake if you made it this far. Oh and don't forget to tape and wire loom everything. Remember, we like the factory look. Now for pics. *Notes* My Dayton Audio sub was backordered so to hold me over I put in my friend's Polk DXi 10" DVC, which is an amazing sub but I burned it out while testing its limits. It is rated at 250w RMS, well I pushed double that to it and burned a voice coil. I already ordered a replacement for her. I picked up a Kicker CVR, which I am accustomed to and while it's loud, I don't think it sounds as good as the Polk. I'll only be using it for a few days though. Then again the Polk won't sound anywhere near as good as the Dayton either. To each his/her own though. If you want it loud there are subs for that. If you want better sound quality, there are also subs for that. The days of wanting people to hear me before they saw me are over. Then I blew a coil on the sub so I took a little break. Ok time to replace the sub. Yes, it is a lot of work but it's worth it to achieve amazing sound. Luckily for me, i've done this so many times that it's pretty simple. I got most of it done between 7am and 11am because I had a meeting at 11:30am. After the meeting I finished up. Changed some things In comparison to a Kicker CVR In the new box Last edited by ecko04; 04-24-2012 at 07:15 PM. |
04-18-2012, 03:24 PM | #8 |
Shark attack!
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How good was the hide away sub? Did it manage to slide under the seat?
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04-18-2012, 03:47 PM | #9 |
HT5 COTW 9/3/2012
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Looking good, any pics of the car?
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04-19-2012, 04:42 AM | #10 |
Drives: IBM 2SS Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 858
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nice setup
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04-24-2012, 07:13 PM | #11 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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05-16-2012, 06:26 PM | #12 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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I would've used Fatmat, which is a little thinner than Dynamat but I get a really good deal on 20 sq/ft of Dynamat and I didn't have to wait for it to be delivered. Today was a beautiful day so I grabbed a 12 sq/ft kit I had for a few years and a 20 sq/ft kit and let the fun times begin. In my 07 Scion tC, I used Fatmat throughout the entire vehicle (i.e. pulling out the seats & carpet) and applying from the firewall back. I don't believe i'll be going to that extreme. Then again, i'll never say never. It wasn't really necessary for a 10" sub pushing 1000 watts in a sealed enclosure but it's better to just go ahead and do it. |
05-22-2012, 07:21 PM | #13 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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So far i've tried 4 different 10" subs:
Kicker CVR (dual 2 ohm voice coils) Polk Audio DXi 104 (dual 4 ohm voice coils) Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 Infinity Kappa 100.9w SSI By far the best sounding was the Dayton. Kicker was the loudest. The best dollar-for-dollar value was the Polk and the Infinity (which is also the best looking) ranked just behind the Dayton. If I were on a strict budget, I would go with the Polk. Wired @ 8 ohms, the Polk sounds fantastic with this setup. This is in a sealed enclosure with .8 ft^3 air space, light polyfill and powered by a Kicker ZX750.1 rated @ 1000 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. The majority of my music is hip-hop, R&B, jazz & rap. |
05-22-2012, 07:28 PM | #14 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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